Is missing gears a function of your shifter, or bad motor mounts? Cuz from what I understood, it's bad motor mounts that let the motor shift too much when under load, so it doesn't line up properly, and so when you shift, it's off...hence going into the wrong gear? That's why you never miss a shift when doing so slowly...and that's why a torque brace (a band-aid fix for bad motor mounts) makes shifting a lot more crisp and precise? What's the shifter got to do w/ it? I'd imagine if you have good motormounts, no matter how much you try, you won't miss a shift, no matter what shifter you're using.

EDIT: Oh, and according to Jason (JT), the Stillway shifter (which he regards as AWESOME ) has a 5th gear lockout in it, so you'll REALLY never miss a gear... https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...0&postcount=34 Apparently, it's got a lockout for each gear!

 

All a "lockout" on a shift gate does is ensure that the shift lever can only work through a certain gate pattern. It doesn't ensure that the driver will actually engage the gear before letting off the clutch, which is probably behind 90% of missed shifts.

 

Kento, that would be if you miss a gear completely, and end up in neutral, correct? Cuz I'm talking about missing 3rd and getting 5th. So the timing's right...it's just that when going from 2nd to 3rd, it's no longer a straight shot upward. It's actually a bit more leftward. If not, she'll go into 5th.

 

Like I said, there's far more missed shifts as a result of not actually engaging the gear than there are accidentally engaging 5th gear. Having a tranmission lockout doesn't guarantee that you'll "REALLY never miss a gear"...

 

Gotcha. The vast majority of my missed shifts are cuz I catch 5th...I didn't think of the not engaging the gear possibility

 

Now I am totally confused! Some guys like the B&M and some don't. I have the current Mazdaspeed now. And just wanted a more fluid shift with less effort. Is this not possible with the B&M? Also I found out...
The Gotham and B&M are exactly the same... just with a different price tag.

 

Well, I guess it's all about personal preference. Some people like some shifters that other people may dislike. You could try testing out the shifters of people who already have them, but that might be a hassle. In my opinion, you shouldn't buy one until you've tried it for yourself. But it's all up to you.

 

How much better is the short shifter with a weighed shift ****? Is it really that big of a difference?

 

that is a good question...i had an aftermarket shift ****...was a hellof alot lighter then the stock..but it felt really weird..imo. so went back to the stocker when i put in the b and m. much better lol.

 

The leverage required to shift is a function of the shift throw length. The work (energy) required to shift = force X distance. The stock shifter has long throws, so the force necessary to shift is less. A shortshifter does just that: it shortens the shift, so since the distance is decreased, the force necessary to shift must increase. The shorter the shortshifter throw (like the Pettit/RX7store one, w/ a 66% reduction in shift throw) will significantly increase the force necessary to shift.

A (counter)weighted shift **** makes that force easier. How, I'm not quite sure, since my simple understanding of physics would tell me that a heavier **** would require even more work to move...but that's clearly not the case. I think it has something to do w/ increasing the weight on one end of the lever is like reducing the weight on the other end, hence reducing the overall leverage required to shift. Maybe a physics guru can throw out the law/relationship that'll clear that part up

So in short, YES.

EDIT: Also, keep in mind that a LOT of ppl complain about their shortshifters rattling because they aren't using a (counter)weighted ****. Using a (counter)weighted **** such as the stocker etc get rid of the rattle.

 

I'll comment that the shift **** you use has a big impact on how the shifts feel. On the WRX I just bought, the previous owner had a Sparco **** on it. Upon getting a stock **** on there, shifts felt smoother and easier to engage. Whats weird is that the Sparco didn't feel that much lighter then the stock ****, but didn't bother to weight before I chucked it.

I have a B&M for the FD, and the shifts were fine with a stock ****. I just got a FEED heavy weight **** from Jason/JT Imports, but have not driven with it yet as that they car is in pieces. *Seems* to fall into each gear easier, but this may just be my mind enjoying a new toy.

In either case, I know it will transmit a more direct, mechanical feel, as that the **** is solid machined stainless steel with a hard plastic upper part. I think this is something I'm going to like, though others might prefer more isolation of stock *****.

 

The shifter is basically a lever, so adding weight to the end decreases (to a small extent) the amount of effort necessary to move it. A short shifter increases the leverage on the transmission side (i.e., moving the "fulcrum" closer to the driver) to shorten the throw; adding weight to the driver side helps ease the work necessary.

However, this doesn't mean that if you fabricate a 5 lb. shift **** that your shifts will be as easy and smooth as stock...

 

FWIW, sometime back I used some 1000 grit wet sanding paper on the ball of my stock shifter to smooth it up. After carefully cleaning it, I reinstalled it with some heavy bearing grease per the FSM and then submersed it in MT90. It made a noticable difference in smoothness and needed effort.
I don't see why this couldn't be tried with the aftermarket ones.

 

Do you have a picture of your FEED shift ****. I have a MOMO shift **** but it is longer than the stock **** and much lighter. I am going to get a short shifter so I was thinking of going with a weighted ****.

 

No, meant more of how the shift feels. However, I still stand by my unscientific observation that the shifts seemed easier with the stock **** (weight perhaps? Again, don't know as that I tossed the Sparco without giving it much thought and analysis), and smoother (the Sparco was a chromed 'ball' - eww - while the stock **** is leather over possibly some combination of metal and rubber/plastic material, more NVH isolation I imagine).

Irregardless, there can be a different feel by simply switching the ****, and some may translate this into a particular short shifter characteristic - if they happened to change both the **** and the shifter at the same time. Just wanted to point this possiblity should that happen to be the case in some of these feedbacks.

TwoTwinTurbos: Interior is gutted, as it has been for the last three years. I'll see what pics I can take when I go back to the old place tonight. The **** does sit very low. No idea of exact weight, but it is noticeably heavier then stock.

 

That particular comment was not directed at your post; it was more to ensure that people don't get the wrong idea regarding the role of weight in shift *****.

 

Try the RE Amemiya shifter with RE Amemiya ****. That's what I have sitting here just not installed yet. These shifters are on Ebay all day.

 

A weighted shift **** does help though. I did notice better shifts in the FD with a round **** too, kind of weird, maybe its just preference but mayber not since I used a cyclinder shaped **** in my MR2 since round was harder to shift.. Oh well... Just my thing I guess...

 

the feed '*****' is a good upgrade! the weight definitely makes a subtle, but positive difference

 

I had the B&M on my last FD and my current FD uses the stock shifter. Nothing is smoother than the stock shifter in good working condition. I doubt switching to a B&M (from a Mazdaspeed) will make things smoother. After driving with the stock shifter in this car, I don't think I will ever install a SSK on an FD again.

If you have some money to play with give it a try and resell it if you don't like it. I think the idea to put some tranny oil under the shifter will help. You should probably try that first.

 

I've actually never missed third by not engaging the gear all the way, I miss it because I shift into 5th. When you are making a lot of power and you go to shift, when you push in the clutch, the engine (and trans) moves left. So when you want to shift up and to the right, sometimes, you go right more than you should because it's hard to compensate for a big movement of the trans while you're racing and shifting fast. I think a lockout sounds like a great idea, however, I don't know too much about them. Just my $.02

Craig

 

ok, so I managed to pick up the B&M Shifter last night... installed it, I had to dremell a little of the metal around the tranny box to get at the top right bolt. Took me a little longer than I thought it would.

After my test drive I did notice a slightly shorter throw than the Mazdaspeed. Effort has not really improved all that much. But I hear allot more driveline noises. Little sqeaks hear and there. It's a little annoying. Other than that I will give the new shifter a week before I draw any final conclusions,

 

hmm...i have the b&m and everything works very well for me. It engages smoothly and I have no problems with it. Also, installation was pretty straightforward. It dropped right in. I've tried the others too, but I like this one the best so far. Try it and it'll grow on you.

 

That, and it's VERY notchy when you just install it. It loosens up a bit soon afterward.

 

I got the B&M short throw shifter with the greddy counter **** to go with it. Its a great combo!