just finished a rebuild and a auto to manual swap not too long ago. took the car home and did the clutch pedal and connected the clutch master to the clutch line. bled the clutch line to build up pressure and get the air out. was ready to shift into gear to move the car around a bit and it wont shift. will shift when car is off. there is no noise or vibration on the pedal what so ever when pedal is all the way in. looked though the inspection plate to see if everything was moving and looks good.

check the forums a bit and saw:

1. broken fork
2. clutch on backwards
3. pilot bearing bad
4. need to bleed air out

is it possible for the tranny to be bad???

ill check to see if there is any sign of a broken fork....

need to know whats worng

 

could be a weak clutch master i changed to a centerforce dual friction on the original CMC and am having problems getting it into gear in 1st and reverse when stopped it moves the clutch and works but is too weak to move separate the clutch fully i never notice it when driving cause i always rev match anyway but when but when backing up i have to pump the clutch about 20 times before it will work.

 

doubt the tranny is bad if it is shifting when the car is off.

try putting it into gear and start the car(be leary of what is in front/behind of you and be sure the e-brake is on), it will tell you if the transmission is bad or if it is in your clutch system.

last time i saw this issue the clutch disc was installed backwards and so it was never disengaging as it was stuck against the e-shaft even with the clutch depressed. clutch forks do break but it is rather uncommon and probably something you would have/should have easily spotted prior to assembly. the pilot bearings do fail if the tranny was stabbed awkwardly but it also probably would have broken loose by now, starting the car in gear may also free up the broken pilot bearing if it is jammed up. i also doubt it is air in the lines still, the pedal would be super mushy.

 

dam i dont want to take out the tranny but if i have to then i guess i do


btw i torqued the pressure plate to 25lbs

 

did you adjust the clutch rod on the master cyclinder? make sure the pedal is returning all the way to the top so you get full pushrod on the slave cylinder to ensure a full release of the pressure plate

 

Also make sure the slave cylinder is working right I had mine go bad and start leaking. When it started leaking I couldnt even put her in gear.

 

I second putting the car into gear and starting the car with the clutch on the floor. If it pulls forward (and it probably will), have somebody check the slave cylinder and throwout bearing fork to be sure it actuates when the clutch is depressed. If it actuates full travel, the tranny has to come out. If it does not, the issue is in clutch hydraulics or adjustment.

I've seen pilot bearings seize and clutch disks come apart and wedge. Either one will make it seem like the clutch won't disengage.