Shifter wave spring and Knob orientation?
#1
93 Touring
Thread Starter
Shifter wave spring and **** orientation?
1.The wave spring that goes on the top side of the shifter ball -- how do you get it on? It can't go over the ball and to come from the top you would have to remove the rubber boot piece just above the ball. I know I've replaced it before, but now don't see how.
Unless, this rubber boot piece isn't supposed to be there? could be that it was somehow from the big boot and . . .
Or is this something different -- it is a JDM shifter and I don't know if they made changes or not.
2. Second question. Any simple way to have a shift **** end up pointed the right way? This after market one used to end up right, now tightens to 3 o'clock. It has metal threads, so unless I somehow turned the whole threaded piece inside, I'm not sure what happened. We like the **** for daily driving, but only if it is tight.
Thanks for any help
Unless, this rubber boot piece isn't supposed to be there? could be that it was somehow from the big boot and . . .
Or is this something different -- it is a JDM shifter and I don't know if they made changes or not.
2. Second question. Any simple way to have a shift **** end up pointed the right way? This after market one used to end up right, now tightens to 3 o'clock. It has metal threads, so unless I somehow turned the whole threaded piece inside, I'm not sure what happened. We like the **** for daily driving, but only if it is tight.
Thanks for any help
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (21)
Someone stated recently that the smaller rubber boot could be stretched and lifted off the shifter shaft. But looks like a tight fit and they mentioned that it may be easier to cut it off and then install a new one after the wave washer is put on.
As for clocking the shifter **** with metal threads, I would try a small ball of aluminum foil placed on the tip of the shaft. Then tighten it down and the foil should help to change the "clock" position of the ****. It would be trial and error to get the perfect size foil spacer though.
As for clocking the shifter **** with metal threads, I would try a small ball of aluminum foil placed on the tip of the shaft. Then tighten it down and the foil should help to change the "clock" position of the ****. It would be trial and error to get the perfect size foil spacer though.
#4
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
It does have to be installed from the top. If you're replacing bushings, go ahead and get the inner shift boot, they're almost always torn the hell up when you get in there. It's pretty easy to install a new one but it's a bitch to take it back off.
Or, if you just want to hack it, you could cut the spring and work it around the shift lever to get it in place. But, I'd spring the few bucks for that shift boot.
Here's a repop of the Mazda part, $20+shipping -
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda...item3f0e5220a4
Dale
Or, if you just want to hack it, you could cut the spring and work it around the shift lever to get it in place. But, I'd spring the few bucks for that shift boot.
Here's a repop of the Mazda part, $20+shipping -
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda...item3f0e5220a4
Dale
#5
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Oh, on the shift **** problem - you could probably put some sort of shim inside the shift **** so when you screw it on it bottoms out in the correct orientation. Would take some measurement and fiddling but it's not impossible.
Dale
Dale
#6
Radioactive Rotary Rocket
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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That boot is best explained as the world's most difficult condom. But yes it will stretch far enough. For the shift **** you can just use what they had on the FC and use a locking ring. Just a nut under the shift ****. Get the shift **** in position and then tighten the nut against it. I prefer this type because otherwise the shift ***** always seem to work themselves loose over time.
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