ok, I tihnk I'll be attempting the sequential simplification soon, opefully within a month or so.

So, I need a list off all that I will need to buy, size and length of hose, gaskets, things that I will probably brake on the way, things I should do whiel I'm down there, ect. If any of you guys that have done it could tell me what I need it would be great.

Are there any other write ups about it, in the style of a "Sequential simplification for Dummies" telling me remove this bolt, then this bold, then this nut, ect?

Finally, if anyone theres anyone in my are who has done this, I could sure use someone to amke sure I dont' fudge it up to bad.

Thanks

 

well, i didn't do the sequential simplification by wade (?) on rob robinette's site, and left everything else as I found it. I just removed the ACV, EGR, double throttle, and associated solenoids. It really cleaned up the vacuum line mess.

it went from this:
http://wave.prohosting.com/isuposs/p...0lines_jpg.htm

to this:
http://wave.prohosting.com/isuposs/p...20done_jpg.htm

...which probably doesn't look like a huge improvement, but believe me, any reduction in vacuum lines is a bonus. It's much easier to check the hose routing.
you'll probably want to get ahold of some block off plates.
things you could do:
replace/clean injectors
replace the FPD
check the operation of the check valves
can't think of anything else off the top of my head.

remember to put 330 ohm resistors in any unpluged solenoid connectors.

plus there's the usual shpeal about being careful not to break any nipples off of the solenoids. blah blah, cut the hose off with a razor blade, blah, blah.
good luck

 

I did the Wade Lanthum simplification. I'm down to about 26 hoses now. I just got a vacuum hose kit from Hose Techniques that they make for our cars. I had plenty of left over but it also has everything you need. I didn't need anything special other then that kit. It'd help if you replaced all the plastic check valves with metal ones though.

 

i just did the simplification a couple of weeks ago...

what you need:
silicone hose 3-4feet??
tie wraps (100 enough)
a sharp cutter
3-4 resistors 330ohm 1/2 watts
gasket (UIM)
gasket (throttle body)
rubber ring (between the throttle body and intake elbow

tools:
10 & 12 wrench
pliers
simplifaction diagram
original color diagram

check out rob robbinett's site

while your in there...
remove the double throttle butterfly
remove ACV
remove air pump
get a shorter timing belt
buy BOP

Good luck...

-D-

 

Just quoting myself:
"the simplification doesn't affect any aspect of the turbo system, so turbo simplification is kind of misleading. It should be called the emissions control and double throttle elimination."


Some good threads with some potentially helpful pics and links on the topic:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=167287

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=129174

 

You guys happen to know how many feet of what size hose I'll need to buy? I know if I but the hose tech kit I'll end up paying for a bunch of hose that I won't use.

What will I need block off plates for? and where can I get them?

About how many hours am I looking at for this project?

 

you need 3.5 mm vac hose. you can get it from www.hosetechniques.com in 10 ft sections.
Thats as small as they sell it.
The block off plates can be bought here...http://www.k2rd.com/Online_Catalog/BlockOffPlates.htm

 

well... it all depends on how many hours you want to spend a day... i think once you get to know whats in there, you can do it in a week... maybe even less when you have all the necessary parts...

the easiest route is to take all the hoses off from the rat nest... then follow the diagram one hose at a time...

*note* cover all the holes(LIM, turbo, oil neck) wiv a newspaper or something... u dont want anything to drop in there...

 

Which block off plates will I need?

 

Is there a fianl word on what brand of hose is the best to use? Seems like many don'e like the hose techniques hoses.

 

ok so heres the list of stuff I'll need:

1. Hose tech kit
2. block off plates (do I need the whole set?)
3. shorter belt (for airpump elimination)
4. lots of time

Anything else?

 

Surely you mean drive belt? We have no stinkin' timing belts!

 

does the simplification effect the engine's life and engines' monitoring system?

Thanks

-joe

 

I don't tihnk it effects your engine life, since it just elminates a bunch of emissions stuff, but I'm guessing if they do emissions teting where u are you wont pass.

How much of the hose tech kit did you guys actully use? I think I'm going to buy it by the foot form baker precision instead, and I'm trying to keep cost down.

 

oh I also noticed the hose tech kit coems with a bunch of 3.5mm line, and some 4 mm line, but at baker precision the smallest they have is 4mm. will the 4mm work in place of the 3.5 mm ok?

 

Whatever the Hose Tech kit has for 3.5mm, I used just about all of that. You should only need a few feet of 6mm and 10mm (I think) sizes, I'd say 6ft just to be safe.

 

so will the 4mm work in place of the 3.5mm since the smallest baker precisions has is 4mm

 

I am new to this forum but am i the middle of rebuilding the stock twin along with the motor. 9 am using two peice two mm seals) I am also buying a hks downpipoe to mount to my nurspec exhuast. ( i am running three inch pipe between the two! I will be needing a reprogrammable computer! I need to replace vacume lines anyways!

Will this turbo mod help me?
Should I go about this whole project a different way?
Do I need some sort of backpreasure or restriction on my exhaust?

thanks guys, joe

 

to anyone who will do this... buy 4mm and 6mm!!
Dont forget the resistors 330ohm 1/2watts (4piece)
Dont forget also the Block Off Plate BOP
- one for the ACV
- one for the Double throttle (if your removing this)
- two for the airpump (if your removing the airpump)

Zoomspeed:
there are some hoses you need to replace where the end is 4mm and the other end is 6mm... i dont know where to get this kind of hose?! just leting you know... so just use 4mm to replace it! 3.5mm will be a tight fit and i dont recommend you to use...

DamonB: oooppsss... sori for the mix up... how can i be so stupid... hahaha

 

Some comments:

1) Updates: Yes, I should probably update my web site instructions and diagram. There are several mistakes / omissions that have been pointed out over time. I can't update the copy at Robinette's site since it is no longer maintained, as far as I know.

2) Hoses: The difference between the 3.5mm and 4mm hose is the wall thickness. The 3.5mm is meant for vacuum and has thicker walls. It is less likely to collapse. It is okay to use the 4mm for pressure lines but I'd try to avoid it for vacuum lines. I have had great success with the Silver Hose Techniques 3.5mm hose and would recommend it to anyone. It fits on the nipples so tightly that tie wraps are probably totally unneccessary. I have never had one of these hoses pop off.

3) Yes it should be called the Turbo System Simplification because the number of turbo system hoses is cut roughly in half, mostly because of the removal of the metal "rats nest" manifold. I have made several changes to my setup since then and removed even more hoses. It is indeed a simplification of the turbo control system, however no parts are removed that affect the performance of the system.

4) Fuel Pressure Regulator: If keeping the stock regulator, the FPR solenoid can be removed and/or bypassed. The critical thing here is that a boost reference hose is attached to the stock regulator or an aftermarket regulator. This isn't clearly explained in the How To.

5) The Orange Hose: I should have connected it in the diagram because people ask about it periodically.

6) The Lower Intake Pass-Through nipples: All the nipples on the upper part of the Lower Intake manifold are just pass through nipples. The paths are independent and don't connect with the intake ports. Any of these that aren't used don't need capped. The only reason to actually use these is for convenience. Using any of these actually makes the number of turbo control hoses go up (if a pass-through is used, one hose just turned into two hoses).

Wade

 

Finally got the UIM off. Why would anyone one hook so many things up to the UIM? Especailly in places you can't reach!

So these just get wired into whatever connectors I'm not using right?

Where are the 2 places I use the airpump plates? I took off the air pump and all I see is the hose the hose that use to be attached to it.

What all needs to be removed form the UIM when I ahve it off? I'm removeing the double throttle, so I can take off the actuator associated with them. What about all the other doohikees on there?

 

oh yeah, also, my BOP set has 7 plates, what are the other 2 for?

 

Exactly which connectors do I need to put the resistors into?

In the diagram, is the PCV eliminated or jsut not pictured?

 

1. Yes

2. If you remove just the airpump, you have to gutt out the cat!! if you have done so then cap of the hose that used to connect to the airpump.

The two BOP for the airpump is when you remove the metal pipe that attached to the hose of the airpump! if you remove this metal pipe (right on top of the turbo), then you have to use a 2 block off plate for both of the opening.

3. when y ou remove the D.C. you can take out the actuator since it serve no purpose anymore. Use a BOP or something like a screw to cover the hole.

Im not sure how many BOP you will need, but i remember a thread that state these.... do a search

 

how is one suppose to get a new vac line on the FPR? the nipple for it is completely out if sight, and I barely have enough room to get 2 fungers down there.