My car came with a factory door unlock and security alarm when I got it in '97. That thing has long since died and it was poorly installed in the first place. So I have no power door locks and no alarm.

Is there something after market that can be retrofitted into the doors to get the locks to work again? Anything else I can do/should do? I've long been of the idea that alarms don't d much anyway, but it would be nice to have something on there to at least lock stuff up.
I'm going to bypass the two relays under the driver's side and run direct to the starter. I wonder if a on/off switch somewhere in that chain would at least sow crooks down if they try to make off with the car.

 

any good stereo shop can add universal door lock actuators with a keyless entry/security system. if everything is still functioning properly with the locking mechanism, you'll only need one for the driver side. If not, you'll need to add one on the passenger side also.

 

I understand that it's desirable to get a RHD LEFT door lock actuator for our LHD LEFT doors when adding keyless entry. Supposedly the mechanism on ours isn't as robust and things fatique and break over time. Maybe that's your issue.
I accumulated the JDM part some time ago but haven't gone to the trouble to install. I still use the stock alarm and just turn the key at the driver's door....probably always will.

 

Thanks for the RHD info. I don't know that I'll even care that much but I'm looking at options. The right door would work if I remember correctly, however the internals on the left side were beat the hell up by whomever installed it back in '94-95.

I also have to replace the dang window switch on the driver's side. A clutch shop somehow managed to break that for me.

 

Does anyone have the wiring guide for the "pulse relay" you need to make so that the factory security brain doesn't set off the alarm when you manually unlock the car without the key.

IIRC, when the car is locked by key, unlocking the car from inside and opening the door will set off the alarm.

I'm pretty sure you have to add in some kind of relay that sends a pulse to the security brain when the door is unlocked by an aftermarket solenoid.

Or do most people just disable the factory alarm when they install aftermarket power lock actuators?

 

yes, just tap in a negative (-) pulse when unlocking, the unlock trigger when disarming to the wasbi-green wire under the driver kick panel. I also put a diode in between to keep current flowing one way.

Some aftermarket alarms have a separate wire intended for disarming factory alarms, you can use that also.

Take a look at these instruction from DEI - Clifford Matrix mode - page 14 of the aux harness - H2/6. They use the light-green wire for this purpose. INSTALL_MANUAL

I'll have to take a look again at my car, but I remember it was one of the first closes harness when removing the kick panel. Call it light green or wasbi green for me.

 

I just spent about 2 hours removing all the wire taps and splices and relays from the old security system that had been in the car for 18 or so years! What a mess. I actually have a workable space under the driver's side dash and wiring that makes sense. The stock security works well now and the click click is gone.

 

Car is still wigging out. It honks and flashes other drivers the entire time I'm driving. Can I just yank the factory alarm/security brain the hell out?

Damnit this car. You'd think after 17 years of ownership, I'd have a few days peace a year from fixing something. I don't even drive it because it's always something!!!

 

The security brain in the driver's kick panel can easily be unplugged and the car can be driven trouble free until you properly diagnose the problem. The only thing you'll lose is the key reminder tone I believe.

Here's how I added a actuator to my driver's side door. Apart from integrating a JDM OEM actuator, It's a proper way to do it but is a little more expensive than just throwing an actuator in. A lot of people get themselves into trouble with bad geometry and just poor decisions about what it beefy enough to pull or push on. I basically just actuate the actual lock switch on the driver's side. The car will fall to pieces around this addition before it breaks

http://www.norotors.com/index.php?to...4057#msg164057

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