MikeGrady

Ok, first I want to thank everyone who posted links to help me on my last post. The vacuum line replacement went pretty well. After giving everything a once over I found that the "I" and "J" soliniods seemed to be switched. The car came to life until you are up on about 6 lbs of boost and then you downshift and really put it under a load. The boost seems to remain at 5lbs and there is a noticable rattle in the front exhaust. I stopped the car and babied it back to the shop. I am thinking the secondary turbo is shot. The turbos have 120,000 miles on them. I think it is something like $3400 for a new replacement turbo. What options does my buddy have? I don't think he would complain about a performance upgrade BUT he doesn't need anything major. He enjoys driving his car way too much to throw away reliability. I figure I will be in on the deal and I have done upgrades on everything from Syclones to Eclipses.
Thanks for any ideas,
Mike Grady

7-sins

If you are not seeing up to 10 psi under 4500 rpms then you probably have a leak in one of the couplings from the turbos to the engine. The most common to fail is the coupling right out of the turbo Y=pipe. I had to replace mine because I found a 2" gash in it. From what I have heard, the primary turbo should go bad before the secondary (10 to 1 the secondary has just a control problem). In the worst case a rebuild will cost around 500$. Even if your primary is running fine.... there are a lot of things that could cause a secondary not to run. What is your boost curve? I know I did the silicone hose job w/o fixing my boost problem. I didn't look towards it like it would.... I checked all my hoses a while ago and they were fine. I just did the hose job cuz I had the engine apart and it would be easier. Now what I failed to do is test all the solenoids, that is what I think my problem was. Just to give you an idea.

Rated R1

Did you re-intall the restrictor pills back into the lines that run to the actuators?