Arthas

Hi all

took my car for a ride today and i found that "again" car was bucking and stalling at 3k rpm... so as I had that problem before, decided to test if car was able to boost... and nothing... seems like is not a problem with 3k rpm... problem is that car wasn't able to boost... as soon as it reaches the 0 psi... car bucks and won't go forward...

so decided to check error codes and got

6 17 and 45 (some months ago had the same problem and got the codes 6, 13 ,45 after resetting the ecu solved the problem )

and again tried a ecu reset to check if maybe there was an electrical issue

after going for a ride... car was boosting... but at 4.5k there wasn't transition and i could heard a psssshhhhh coming under the hood (sounds like a really big turbo from a supra or any car but big...)

2 videos please hear carefully when car reachs the 4.5 rpm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ITcRYUQJJ4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbaGZf4Em8c


so decided to turn the boost controller off and try again...

the same... 4.5k no transition at all... but this time the pssshhhhh sound is louder (like a really big supra turbo) and its only after 4.5k

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASsjgI4NE0A

(in my poor knowledge and my way to explain it its like secondary turbo is boosting to nowhere like it was totally disconnected, but i know is not simple as that)

so decided to come back to home.. and on my way to home... found that releasing the accel sometimes comes a "wossh" from the hood too...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LraBZvGLAak

listen carefully second 0:03

after all arrived to home and checked for codes...

again code 6 but this time only 6

I don't what it could be

Please help me!

P.s sorry if i didn't push the car harder but i was affraid of hurting the primary turbo from overworking

apologize my bad english

nismosilvia270r

iTrader: (5)

solenoids. mine worked fine when cool, but after warm up the same thing happened.

you can search around here for the plethora of troubleshooting threads, or buy/make an aftermarket solenoid rack.

the whoosh sound sounds like the blow off valve or abv is not opening. compressor surge

Arthas

thx, but what solenoid? where should i start looking?

CrimsonPride

iTrader: (11)

Since we keep hearing the woosh, woosh like a Bov could it just be that it is going bad and not holding pressure even when it is not getting vacuum but just pressure so that it should be closed. Although I don't know what the codes are that were listed.

nismosilvia270r

iTrader: (5)

Charge relief. Charge control. Turbo control. Etc

The whoosh, or shuttering sound, is compressor surge from abv not opening. YouTube has pretty cool videos of race cars with no blow off valves that make the same sound

Arthas

I don't have an abv I have a greddy rs bov... can this be a problem related to the bov?

updates**

-Moved the car from 1 parking to another... I mean... a very short ride... not boosting at all very low rpms (4 mins max)

checked for ecu codes again and surprise now again error code 6 and 45

- seems like again car is on limp mode wasn't boosting at all as soon as it reachs 0 psi.. it stutters... stopped in a gas station... again reseted the ecu and car was able to boost... but i didn't pass 4k rpm...

-back to home I've checked for codes again and I've only code 6 again...

seems like code 45 appears when i use the car for a very short time... but problem with secondary boost stills... could it be a Y pipe leaking?

MazdaSpeedDan

iTrader: (4)

Might be a boost leak from hell.....

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

Make sure the flapper valve is opening for the second turbo. You can dissconnect the hose going to it and it should be open. car will be really laggy but you will know if the second turbo engages.

seven1997

iTrader: (2)

I do not think removing the turbo control hose will open the flapper! I think it takes vacuum or pressure applied to the turbo control actuator to open the turbo control flapper!

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

Correct. The Turbo Control Actuator uses both stored Vacuum AND Pressure to actuate quickly. If it has ONLY vacuum or ONLY pressure it will actuate slowly. Simply disconnecting it will pretty much lock it closed. I highly suggest you invest in a boost gauge, even a crappy $25 one from autozone, to know what your boost is doing. Only then will we be able to help you further diagnose your problem. I also suggest a full vacuum hose replacement and testing of each of your solenoids for proper actuation.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/how-test-your-solenoids-actuators-other-turbo-stuff-802060/ <---link to testing solenoids.

If you discover your solenoids are improperly functioning, I highly suggest a custom solenoid rack for replacement of them [Check the group buy section for Azeknightz' setup or search for the DIY]. If you plan to keep your Rx7 in sequential twin mode for awhile until you can afford a full single build up like myself, then this investment is invaluable to the proper operation of your turbo set up and the utilization of all the power your car can make in stock form

Matt

Arthas

Hi there! thx for your answers

I have already a boost gauge... and there is videos so you can see the problem... or tell me what kind of test should i run

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

Forgive me I didn't see your boost controller mounted to your steering column :P however with the glare on the screen it's hard to see what your boost is doing. I imagine it is reading in PSI? If it is it appears you have a rather large boost leak. The whooshing sound is a typical tell tale sign of one if you have the factory air box installed. Check your couplers and intercooler piping for cracks. Even the smallest crack can leak a lot of air. I did not notice your boost controller reading anywhere near 10psi and that's what brought me to the conclusion of a boost leak. If you fix the boost leak and still have issues the please move forward to checking your solenoids.

Arthas

Tomorrow im gonna go with a friend wich has a car lifter... Im gonna look for leaks in the secondary turbo connection with the Y pipe Idk If I'm wrong but searching I found this



on this thread

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/low-boost-after-4-5000-rpm-901878/

Im not sure but maybe this can be my problem due to when secondary must have kicked i can hear a loud pshhhhhhhhhh instead

RXtacy

iTrader: (7)

Code 6 is for your speedometer, 13 is your map sensor, 17 is your O2 sensor feedback, and 45 is charge control solenoid.

http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html

I would start by checking your MAP sensor, and your charge control solenoid.

Use this as a guide to check your solenoids.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=802060

CrimsonPride

iTrader: (11)

Yeah, fix that in the pic and anything else you find wrong. It will definitely leak secondary boost there. Get a nut and make a new gasket if you need a new one. Might not be the only problem but it is a problem.

nismosilvia270r

iTrader: (5)

not the op's car

Arthas

More updates

Today I've lifted the car and i didn't find any visible leak... but we found that secondary turbo has a oil leak!





Is it too bad?

Is there any way to test my secondary turbo? I mean maybe unplugging the charge control actuator or something!

Please help!

Arthas

bump!

CrimsonPride

iTrader: (11)

It looks bad to me. Look around for an external source of oil leak like the oil return line in the pic, etc. If you don't see anything external take the air pipes to and from turbo and look inside. I think they and the turbo could have oil everywhere. It looks like it could be coming from inside the turbo and has saturated the aluminum. As far as testing the turbo, you can turn the compressor wheel by hand and see how it feels. It should turn with little effort/no binding. If you don't know what it should feel like take the air inlet off of the primary and turn it by hard to compare.

CrimsonPride

iTrader: (11)

My car was up anyway in garage so I though I would send a pic. My turbos like most of the stock twins produces some oil in the IC and intake tract but yours looks like way way too much.

Arthas

more updates I've been busy to move the car but today i went with a friend to check actuators and tried to make new videos about the boost in the way to my friend workshop and my secondary turbo "worked!!!!!" so tried again.. and the the turbo again worked!... (seems like with normal temps... after 10 mins of driving 70Cº/158Fº) it works

arrived to my friends workshop and let the car idling (water temp and oil temp went up) so decided to go for a new ride to test my secondary....

and it didn't work... same as before... no secondary at all... boost drops to 2 3 psi and that weird noise... pshhhhhhhhh (this time temps were around 90Cº/194Fº)

after that car can still boosting... without secondary... but can boost... then arrived to my friends workshop and turned off moved to elevator and turned on again to check actuators... and surprise... car wasn't able to boost at all (again in limp mode) went to check codes and again code 45 and 6

resuming... i think its an intermitent problem... but im not sure if it's the solenoid... or the actuator .. or something else... maybe a relay... which is causing a short to the solenoid...

I just don't want to be changing pieces blindly (fd pieces aren't cheap)

a video of my secondary

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Mnc9EhHbx4

Please help!

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

Code 45 as you stated. Charge control issue. Your charge control actuator allows secondary boost to join primary boost and "transition"

Arthas

ya... but how can i troubleshoot the solenoid??? im not sure if maybe a the charge control actuator is not working properly and is affecting to the solenoid... wich results in error code 45...

Arthas

any turbo specialist out there?

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

Check the FAQs. There is a direct link to troubleshooting solenoids and actuators.