well i hooked up a paintball air tank to UIM and regulated the pressure down to about 20ish psi. I found a disconnected hose but it was prolly from when i took off the UIM. it didn't fix my problem and once again I ended up having a lot to do, so the gas station is on hold yet another day. i think i am absolutely free tomorrow so it should FINALLY get fixed.

 

well i hooked up a paintball air tank to UIM and regulated the pressure down to about 20ish psi. I found a disconnected hose but it was prolly from when i took off the UIM. it didn't fix my problem and once again I ended up having a lot to do, so the gas station is on hold yet another day. i think i am absolutely free tomorrow so it should FINALLY get fixed.

 

any good result?

 

well it seems slightly better than it was before and the sound is quieter, but there is still a definate leak somewhere. Its been snowy/icy since sunday so I havn't had a chance to look at it since. Sorry for all the delays guys i hope to be at the bottom of this by the summer =D (just kidding, way before that)

 

Yup, I got a similar problem now too .
No secondary boost wHen I shift up a gear, but if the rev drops below the 3000rpm and I floor it again I get boost.
I had a quick look around in the UIM area, and I see a check valve just hanging there, so a vacuume line must have pop off or something.
It's too hot in the engine bay now, but I will have a closer look when it cools down.

Hope you sort the problem out soon

 

Just had the same problem. Noise sounded like it was coming from the glove compartment. I called Jeff at Rotary Power in Gardena, CA and he said almost exactly what Flybye said: "Look at the y pipe coupling and take it out.
Reason is because when they have a split, it will be tight enough to not be able to see, but under pressure the thing will open up like a $10 ho allowing your boost to leak out. You need to physically take it out or squeeze it in on all sides. This is the common problem most people neglect to properly check by simply doing a visual,"

I took it out, it looked fine but didn't squeeze the coupling and ended up taking it in to the shop. They (Rotary Power) took out the same coupling and squeezed it a few times and there was a tear in the coupling along the crease where the rubber makes contact with the pipe. They installed a used but good condition coupling and charged me $00. Also added that an Efini Y Pipe would prevent that from occuring again.
Mazda wants $59 for a replacement. Bought 3' of 2.75" ID silicone for the same price. Runs great now.

 

i wondering does it have to do with stock BOV, maybe it's small for my modification. perhaps i should change to biger BOV!

 

TTBullet,

No.

 

i really think its that coupler now. b/c i switched the y pipe and I/C coupler and it seems like the sound is farther toward the front now. Where can i find good silicone replacements? I know turbohoses.com, hosetechniques.com etc, but i was looking for someone on the east coast to fix the problem.
-stephen

EDIT: it looks like rx7store.net is my closest option.

 

That coupler has been responsible for more boost issues than any other component in the stock SEQ system.

Silicone, ASAP.

 

i'm going to go ahead and order new couplers tonight from rx7store.net unless anyone knows of anywhere closer to NC. Also if you have your A-Game and can find someone closer to NC with a cost of under $40 shipped for 2, you will seriously be my hero for the next 24 hours. =D
-stephen

 

dude are you retarded? sorry but its not I think its the coupler. Take the damn thing out and see if theres a split in it or not. Its not microscopic if its letting out 10 pounds of boost

sorry again...

 

It's not the secondary turbo going bad, it's the coupler.

If you want to have a cheap version of a fix, wrap the coupler with about 20 rotations of duct tape. If that makes a difference, you know exactly what the problem is.

 

ive taken the couplers out a couple of times and looked at them and didn't see anytyhing wrong when i bent them. I stiched them on purpose and the location of the sound seemed to change and it seemed to hold boost for a little longer. babyzmr is hooking me up with his left over silicone hose, but i'll try the duct tape until it gets here. Thank you for all the help, suggestions, and patience. It truly is appreciated.
-stephen

 

could be a sticky vavle.

Check your two senoid valve in front of the pressure chamber. Because when your engine is hot that vavle will act incorrectly causing the switch over to lag. Result in secondary boost lag. 5-6 psi..