Hey guys,



So i am 60% through my build. Engine is still out, still a few more parts to clean and paint then i can start building up the long block. Basically i am doing a simplified sequential set up with deleted emissions. My wastegate is ported to within .0001" of its life and i plan on running a 10-8-10 boost pattern with a Damian like setup (dual manual boost controllers). Also in the plans is a custom V mount setup with my Koyo and ebay IC()


My power/performance mods are basically 3" turbo back with a Blitz Nur Spec, custom strait in intake with K&N filters, greddy rs is going to replace the stock recirculating valve(im leaving the charge releif where it is), heat wraped intake/IC/Intake pipes and thats pretty much it. NGK power cables if that counts.


The main purpose of my build is reliablity mods: Vac hose job (and DaleClark checkvalves), all filters/fluids, ACT prolite, ACT SS clutch(new pilot bearing and release bearing obviously), Eccentric thermal bypass mod, banzai engine mounts, banzai oil pan brace, banzai diff brace,superpro full bushing kit, metal gaskets, simplified seq and TB mod, SS brake lines and EBC green pads, SS OMP, Rewrap engine harness, rebuild stock injectors (change orings), new fuel lines obviously(relocate the stock fuel filter when i drop the diff), AST, engine torque brace, rebuild alt/starter, catch can, tranny seals, PC680 small battery, rear main seal, superpro bushing kit, renforce the stock PPF, redo grounds, SS clutch line, deleted AC (in dash to!). Cleaning and painting everything as i go along. I think thats everything. All these parts on standby ready to be installed at their appropriate time.


As far as my IC setup... basically the idea was:
-To keep the amount of piping to a minimum, so a FMIC was out of the question. (promote quick response)
-Keep the IC NO BIGGER THAN NEEDED
-Provide exellent air flow with a V setup.

So with that in mind, I bought an ebay bar and plate IC. The core size is 21x6x2.75". I figured that any bar and plate IC would be better than stock... Because the IC doesnt have much height, the angle of the radiator will be pretty steep (from the mock up i have done) so i dont have to modify my koyo into a v mount rad. And with the IC on top the piping was going to be really short. The stock electric fans will be mounted on the back of the koyo and then ill make some really nice ducting to both the IC and Rad out of plastic or something. Originally i wanted to have a giant shroud on the back of the IC and rad, to fight heatsoaking at low speeds... but for now ill stick with the stock fans.



I am still undecided on a few things.


1. Should i re-torque my tension bolts while my engine is on the stand??


2. What do you guys think of my IC/ v mount ideas


3. What about the rest of my build, anything to add? Comments?



Here are a few pics for your enjoyment:











Thanks guys.





=Ben

 

Anybody?


I would really like to get some good experianced opinion on this.



=Ben

 

So far everything your doing sounds great. You seem to have done plenty of research and are off to a great start. To add do some port matching of your LIM and UIM. Post pics of your IC core. What are your plans for the engine itself?

 

Yes, retorque all the tension bolts to 28 ft-lbs in the proper order set forth in the FSM.

Rewrap the wiring harness? How many miles on it? If it's original, I say replace it. Ray Crowe is about to blow them out on sale for 750 bones.

 

Well the plan for the engine is to run it at 10-8-10 until next winter. Between now and then im going to get all of my materials/tools together to do a decent DIY rebuild. I plan on learning lots the first time around, no elaborate porting or anything, just a basic rebuild. I want to rebuild the engine before it blows, that way i dont have to replace hard parts. I may not use new housings (depending on if my housings are reuseable) becuase obviously if i screw up i dont want to trash brand new housings... That is the plan so far


Im not too worried about port matching, with the 'flow mods' im adding the engine will see enough air. If anything not port matching will help reduce boost creep hehe.




I very much trust your opinion Rich, thanks for the post. Hopefully re-torquing the tension bolts will make my water seals last those few days longer haha


The entire car has 76 000km (47 000miles). Full service records, bone stock before i took it apart. However from heat and time the harness has become ROCK SOLID. The harness apears to be in very good shape and hasnt being touched since the factory installed it in 1992. Next winter i MAY decide to go single with a microtech.. Im not sure yet, either way a new harness isnt in the budget at this stage as nice as it would be. I figure that if i re-wrap it carefully it will make it much more flexible and make it last until i inevitably go the gt35r route. Maybe a nice VTG turbo will come out between now and then .



Basically this is the IC i bought, except mine is 2.75" thick. it is the same bar and plate design.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/INTERCOOLER-NISSA...QQcmdZViewItem


Doesnt have any leaks from that i could tell, welds look decent, the fins are staggered and air seems to move freely through it...




Thanks,



=Ben

 

Is that a brand new tranny?

 

Negative, i degreased it and meticulously painted it. The only new part on it is the output shaft seal


You should see my assortment of painted parts, going to look great when its all back together.


The reasoning behind painting everything is because i didnt want to spend 1000000hours polishing everything. Painting is relatively quick and gives a great finish. Also stops the oxidation of Aluminum, not that thats a big concern but im picky like that. Makes the surfaces easier to clean too, less pores and smoother finish.




=Ben

 

wow nice job man! i am jealous lol!! cud use ur help your a brave man

 

I found dual manual boost controllers to be overkill as far as tuning was concerned. I think youd be better off runing one to a T connecton. Its predictable, simple, and solid.

 

What are you doing for motor mounts? If your going aftermarket urethane, you can probably delete the ETB.

Have you considered a PFC? It might make things alot easier with your emissions delete. A side benefit for me was that even on the stock map the PFC came with, my butt-dyno saw some power gain and it smoothed out transition dramatically.

 

I agree with Jim on both points.....if you run the Banzai poly motor mounts and the diff mount, there's no need for an ETB. I removed mine years ago and havent looked back

 

Hmmm, well that is a good point. Would save me $150 (after duty and crap) for the garfinkle torque brace.

Do you guys think that a torque brace would still be benificial to the seal of the oil pan? I mean if all of the 'torque' stress is being absorbed by the stiff engine mounts.. Thats just that much more stress on the oilpan seal really. Mind you I dont think the engine would be moving much after the urathane diff/engine mounts.

Just a thought.



Ya as long as i get 10-8-10 ill be happy really. Saves me $120 if i only use ONE hallman pro rx.



Meh, IF i was doing to do any ECU tuning i would rather just do it right and get a microtech LT10 or something..., but basically im happy with stock boost levels. Im not looking for as much power as possible, ill be happy with whatever these mods give me. Im expecting 280rwhp or so (Sealevel and maritime climate). From what i researched all of my flow mods and 10-8-10 will still be a little rich.




Thanks for the posts guys.



=Ben

 

There's nothing wrong with the Power FC.....not sure the microtech is 'doing it right.' The majority of FDs that come through our shop run the PFC, it's pretty much the ecu of choice for most street FDs.

 

I seem to have made a terrible assumption haha, i had thought that the power FC was a piggyback type of system. Some breif research revealed that it replaces the entire ECU .

Hmm, this changes things a bit. Perhaps this would be a good option, or at least good insurance down the road. I really like the fact that the commander controler displays all info, saves all that money in gauges and stuff.


Damn it, more money haha.



=Ben

 

I have a PFC, best 1.5K I ever spent!

 

just an fyi rhdjapan has oem wiring harness's for like 600 shipped its where I picked mine up at.

 

Haha i would rather spend that money on a PFC now. God i feel ignorant for having assumed it was a piggyback system.



=Ben

 

sorry for asking dumb question guys but what is etb? hey apexfd was wondering if you had takin any pics of your ac removal? i removed everything except inside the cabin and i have one hard line left to take off and what did you use to plug the holes in the engine bay and the inside the cabin?

 

ETB= Engine Torque Brace (search it if you need more)


No i didnt bother, it is VERY strait forward. I have a writeup:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ete+ac+removal

Basically i bought a tube of black polyurathane caulking and filled my stock AC grommet with it. I used tape to make the engine bay side flush with the top of the grommet. Then for a nicer finish i sprayed black gloss paint on the grommet. Took a while to dry nicely, i had to aim a heater at it for a while but its nice and hard now.


Now i only have the AC button to figure out, i wonder what use i can make of it.




=Ben

 

oh kk i get it now lol!! thanks alot bud! did u get the polyurathane stuff from lordco?

 

Properly sealed and torqued, I doubt it will put any more stress on the pan than with stock mounts. Besides, you said your getting Banzai's Oil Pan brace which should help control flexing.
Ben,
As you now know, the PFC is a standalone. And it has significant advantages over the stock ECU even if your staying at stock boost levels. Not to mention frequently making things easier when doing an emissions delete. I don't have stock in the company, but I'm happy with mine. FYI, I run stock twins w/stock boost. DaleClark has a nice FAQ in the PFC section here explaining things.

 

Home Depot, Paint department.




Ya im still reading up on it, i read Dale Clarks FAQ last night. Seems like a great unit, still have more reserach to do before i spend the money on one though.



So anybody want to comment on my IC setup? Will it be enough?




Thanks,



=Ben

 

I had a look through all of my parts tonight that were neaty stacked away.

What do you guys generally do with the BOV situation. Do you keep the stock charge releif valve (i think thats what its called) and simply take off the stock recirculating valve then replace it with an aftermarket bov?


Also, i am still thinking about that IC setup... i would love to get some thoughts/comments on it.



=Ben

 

Ive got another dilemma..

The 3" downpipe i got is made for a LHD FD... i dont think it will fit my RHD, something i overlooked because the dp/mp combo was such a good deal(120shipped or something).


So now i have a 3" midpipe and a 3" nurspec, but im left to find another downpipe. Obviously i have to get an HKS downpipe, which i assume are 3"?


There is a local guy who has a 3.5" downpipe which looks similar to the HKS (the part where it meets the turbos isnt tubular like the LHD dp's) so i think this one will fit. Im not too sure what brand it is, maybe apexi or something? Anybody know?


Either way the guy is asking 50$ for it, im sure i could get it for cheaper... but i am worried about running a 3.5" DP with a 3" exhaust system, what do you guys think?





=Ben

 

anybody?



=Ben