4CN Air

iTrader: (7)

Well I think I'm going to get my engine install finished tonight if everything goes as planned. I went from a stock motor with non-seq twins tuned to 310whp to a Turbonetics BB 62-1 on a KD Rotary street ported engine with their slick sounding rotor mod. The engine and turbo have both been broken in already so I won't have to go through that pain.

What I'm wondering is how safe is it for me to drive until I get it re-tuned. I'm in Pittsburgh and I'll be taking it to KD Rotary on the other side of the state as soon as we have a nice stretch of snow-free weather. However I wanted to drive it around town a little (roads are bare) to make sure there are no leaks and such things before i take the long trip to Philly.

My wastegate spring is 9psi. The car was tuned by Jason at RX7Store before this project was underway (before you start thinking Jason caused my need for a rebuild, the engine he tuned died of a coolant seal that was bad before he tuned). I have a commander right now so i could change some basic settings if need be, but would this be needed to make it safe to drive around?

If I just keep the boost at around 9psi should I be alright? Even if I want to get on it a little? I need some advice, but please give reasons why. Don't just say "I wouldn't get on it until you get it tuned" for no reason.

I know little about the tuning process and what is actually adjusted, but I imagine the ported engine and turbo will require different values. I don't need max power during the drive out to KD but I would like reliability.

Well I'm going out to my garage to get started, post me some comments to return to. Oh and wish me luck.

- Cody

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

This setup will flow much more at any given boost pressure. Since fuel inputs come directly from the manifold pressure, then it will run lean at all boost levels. Of course, the lower the boost the less destructive any pinging will be, but that's little comfort. I guess some of it depends on how rich you were running before.

Maybe you download a richer fuel map? Is there a PFC option to richen the entire fuel map by an amount?

In any case, when you're coming thru let me know - you know you'll want a break by the time you reach Harrisburg

Dave

dubulup

I wouldn't give it much throttle without a WB O2 in it...like dgeesaman said, BB 62-1 (sounds awesome) is going to put boost in earlier and flow more air. Basically shift your powerband to a totally different place.

GOOD LUCK!! I've been waiting for you to get this project on the road!!!

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Damn!! That was exactly what I was going to say.

I wouldn't get on it until you get it tuned . I feel better now. Oh yeah....... because you don't want anything bad to happen before the tuning gets done right!! I suppose that you could try to tune it yourself. Of course, you might make a mistake, and think you have it right, when you don't.

Be mature. Be smart. Be patient. And................

Don't get on it until you get it tuned!!!

4CN Air

iTrader: (7)

yeah, I'm just going to treat it like it's on a break in period, and keep it under 4-5k rpm until I get out there to get it tuned. It's been in the garage since the summer, no sense in getting impatient now.

Damn snow!


You guys think it'll be alright if I keep out of boost though right? Philly is quite the drive from Pittsburgh. I mean even outside of boosted conditions I'll still be flowing more air because of the port work. I'd really hate to have to ship the thing to get tuned, but if it's not safe to drive I will.

BTW: the motor is on the hoist, just waiting on an extra set of hands to help maneuver it (the load leveler helps).

books

iTrader: (8)

Why don’t you go to Wargasm’s site look up a few cars with that turbo and port? Then compare your previous hp with theirs and use that as a factor of how much additional fuel you need. I would use at least the highest hp that you can find for worst case. However please consider timing as well.

dubulup

tuning vacuum is quite easy and not all that dangerous.

get a nice idle.

rev up 500 rpms at a time adding fuel (or taking fuel out) until the engine sounds "healthy"...up to 4500 or so

drive the car around your block (maybe with a friend) and loading the engine (hills, etc) and repeating the process.

that should be fine to get you to a tuner.



on a side note...I just installed a WB band on the car, and can't believe I didn't spend that money years ago!! COME AWN MPG!!

4CN Air

iTrader: (7)

I need to buy some tuning books and start learning. I can handle all the mechanical stuff. Haven't tackled an engine rebuild yet but with the videos out there I feel confident I can. Of course for the good deals recently on low mileage rebuilds it's barely worth it.

UPDATE ON CAR: I've been working on it all night. I got the engine in myself, it actually on took liek 10 minutes to drop in and bolt up. Problems occured when i pressed the clutch for the first time. Damn slave cylinder are or whatever missed the clutch fork. I guess going through the access plate with a long screwdriver and snapping the TO bearing in place so that the clutch fork comes back is the way to do it, OOPS! Luckily I didn't get any fluid on the clutch.

Problem is now it goes to start, stumbles and dies. Every time. I'm getting spark, fuel, oil pressure, etc. Although I think my magnecore wires with their cheesy ends that don't snap into place were lose for most attempts. Now it's probably flooded. I'm starting the de-flooding process now.