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Rotor Weight

Old Jan 20, 2005 | 03:05 PM
  #1  
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Rotor Weight

Hey guys. I have a 93 FD with a blown engine. I need to replace a rear rotor and I thought I could just buy any rotor but now people are telling me to make sure I get the right weight. I did some research and I know that there are letters on the gear side of the rotor that tells you what weight it is but Mazda offers one part number for all 13b rotors. So is this something I need to worry about or should I just buy a rotor? If I need to worry about it do I have to get the same letter as the front rotor or a combination of letters? I'm lost please help. Thanks.
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Old Jan 20, 2005 | 03:14 PM
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Om Namah Shivaya
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The rotor weights and compression vary from year to year, and turbo vs. N/A.



Here is a comparison chart:



For your application it would be ideal to get another 13B-REW rotor, but you could also use on from a S5 ['89-'91] TII.








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Last edited by busy13b; Jan 20, 2005 at 03:17 PM.
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Old Jan 20, 2005 | 03:19 PM
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But as long as it is for a 13b rew I should be fine? Because I heard there are different weights even with rotors from the same engine type.
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Old Jan 20, 2005 | 03:49 PM
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Om Namah Shivaya
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All stock rotors for the 13B-REW motor are 9.54lbs. Some motor builders will remove weight when they "race clearance" a rotor. Of course the weight will vary slightly when you start looking at things like wear and carbon build-up.



But you are correct in saying there are different weights between rotors even from the same type of engine:

Originally Posted by rgordon1979
Mazda balanced each rotor at the factory. Due to slight variations in the balancing process, each rotors weight varies slightly. Mazda designates this variation by stamping a letter, (A-E), on the gear side of the rotor. According to Mazda the rotor weight should not vary more than 2 letters in an engine. Ideally, you should have matching rotors.
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Old Jan 20, 2005 | 03:52 PM
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I'm not sure what the codes for the FD are, but the FC rotors had a letter stamped on them. The codes were A through E, I believe. You want to have both rotors with either the same letter code or 1 letter away - you can run a C and a D rotor, but not a B and a D, for example.

Mazda did that to account for small production variances.

I'd do some searching and hit up the rotary tech forum and find info on the FD rotor weight codes. Most times, though, it isn't that hard to find another rotor with the proper weight - I think the majority were in the center of the range.

Dale
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Old Jan 20, 2005 | 06:46 PM
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You can also send your rotating assembly to Racing Beat and have them balance it if you want to keep the imbalance to a minimum. It isn't very expensive to do that.

-Max
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