RotaryBuddha

iTrader: (4)

True but at least it would be out of the normal temps.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

on a 550/1300cc car I am running pri/sec transition 30% and sec transition of .712 . I use .10 lag in the front secondary and .15 lag in the rear secondary (helps even the mixture between the two rotors due to the design of the LIM runners). Then for injector overlap try 7-7-4 (reading from the top column down). I noticed increased smoothness as the secondarys came online when I changed this, confirmed by datalogs of primary and secondary pulsewidth. I'm not saying it's going to solve your problem, but it may help.

sec transition msec must be changed with larger secondary injectors if you want the smoothest staging.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I went through your map and made a few adjustments. I replaced the entire timing map with one that has a smoother but conservative curve and more consistent split. You can advance the timing from there on the dyno if you'd like. I changed the injector staging settings per my recommendation, and I used negative lag on the primary injectors so that you can have a better chance of leaning out your idle (common trick). I also turned off the cold start ignition retard and made all your fans switch on at 87 (feel free to change that if you want to, that's what I prefer).

All the air temp, water temp, and tip-in corrections need to be tuned through trial-and-error from my experience. I left the INJ and basemap alone.

rename to a .dat extension

bencb44

iTrader: (2)

wow, arghx, thanks a ton. I wasn't expecting anywhere near that kind of help. I'll try it out, but it doesn't feel as if my secondaries are late, it feels like they're just not coming on. I'll try your map, though, and report back if it helps or not. At the very least, it'll be a better base line for the tuner to start from when I fix the problem.

Edit: I just opened your file, and can't make heads or tales out of it. It looks like the format is wrong for microsoft word or something.

RotaryBuddha

iTrader: (4)

You need to rename the file to a .dat then you can open it in FC-edit. I would also make sure you save a copy of your map just in case you need to switch back on the fly. And how much boost you running? Your settings 1 will cut fuel over .25 of the set value.
Right now you have .80 and .70, so Fuel will cut at 1.05 and .95.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

oh yeah, you need to turn off O2 feedback if you don't have an airpump anymore. I didn't touch that.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

In reading this thread, I'm not sure if your car will run at all over 5K. Are you unable to get over 5K under light acceleration? If not, then it sounds like you have an ignition problem, rather than an injector problem. Under light acceleration, the secondary injectors may not need to come on over 5K.

bencb44

iTrader: (2)

arghx: Thanks again. I'll try out your map on thursday, the next time I can get to my car. I'm living about and hour away, going to college.

RotaryBuddha: I'm boosting at stock level right now. I had hoped to turn up the boost, but decided to do that while getting the car tuned. Everything runs perfectly fine under that 5k rpm limit. I get full boost around 2700 rpm, and it holds rock solid till hat hit that problem point. I will try adjusting that though. Since I'm running the ebc, can I just set those boost values for, say 3? Do I have to do anything to the duty?

adam c: I haven't tried slowly accelerating, yet. I haven't had the chance to touch my car in a few weeks, and the last time I drove it, I didn't know the secondaries coming on was load dependent. I do know that I can sit there, with the car in neutral, and it will rev as high as I want. Although, if I remember right, if I slowly raise the rpm, I do still run into this problem. I'll again tomorrow though.

I do need new spark plug wires, but at the dyno we replaced my plugs, and it didn't affect the problem at all. My old plugs were REALLY dirty too, since on the base map, it's been running pig rich. I've been seeing around 11 AFR just cruising.

RotaryBuddha

iTrader: (4)

Don't worry about the duty cycle, this is only for the PFC option boost controller. And yes set the boost values to a number you will never see. I set mine for 1.5 (still stock turbos)

Image from PFC manual

arghx

iTrader: (3)

the PFC does a great job of controlling boost on stock sequential twins in my experience, assuming your wastegate flows enough. but i guess if he's already got an aftermarket one that's fine too, it's just another box inside the car though.

bencb44

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I tried the map that you set up, and it seems to help a little. I still go way lean, my wideband reads high 16's and 17's or just goes dashed lines. It doesn't feel like a rev limiter, though. The rpm's will climb, but it still doesn't have any power, and it's super lean. I can slowly accelerate to redline, staying off the boost, and it doesn't seem to have any trouble with that, so I'm thinking it is something with the secondary injectors not firing.

I didn't have time to go through and test to see if they click or not, but that's next on my list. I did pull the connector off the front secondary injector, since it was easy to reach, and it looks fine. Now frayed wires or anything. I know that doesn't mean the harness is fine all the way through, but at least I know it's not the plug.

Does anybody have any other suggestions?

bencb44

iTrader: (2)

I've been reading around, and found out that the 1300cc injectors tend to fail frequently. Does this sound like that could be my problem? How would I test them to see if they're working? Thanks.

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Take them out and have them tested. I never had a problem with my 1300cc's.

thewird

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Since the car will rev to redline, it doesn't sound like you have an ignition problem. It seems impossible that both of your secondary injectors would fail at the same time. It sounds like the secondary injectors are not receiving a signal to provide any fuel.

bencb44

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I was afraid of that. I guess I was just hoping for something mechanically, to be wrong, since I'm better at those kinds of things. Oh well, I'll write back when I have it figured out. Thanks for all the help guys.

BluRR

iTrader: (1)

I am having the exact symptoms as you are..except...mine only start after the car is driven for a little while. It boosts fine all the way to redline and full boost for a couple times then after a while it just starts to hold back at about 4k rpm. Mine started when I installed a MSD 6AL on my FD. I installed it on my leading coil only. At first I thought it was my FD coil being pushed over the edge by the MSD as I have heard tends to happen, so I got a FC coil and put it in..same thing happen...So i figured it was the plug wires breaking down so I tested them with a used set of plug wires but in apparently good condition and the same thing happens. So right now with the MSD disconnected, FC coil and used good aftermarket plug wires, I am still having the same problem. But what is strange is that I only happens after the car is boosted a few times before or got hot or something like that. This morning i was thinking maybe it was j&S knock guard..but why would it only cut in when the car hot and not all the time. Seeing your secondary injector theory also had me wondering it disrupted my connections to the injectors when i raised the manifold to get to the coils...but same thing applies...why only when it gets hot. And its not that it has to be hot..because before i changed the wires I thought it may have been the plug wire being loose and slipping of the coils so..i would i stop and tighten the connection to the coil and start back the car and I could boost fine again for a little again and then went back to the same conditon..but it never always worked..sometimes it would just never come back to boosting capacity.

sorry for Hi-jacking...but we seem to be in the same boat more or less...so I wouldnt mind killing two birds with one stone

84 rotary rocket

okay, well your not alone in this propaganda! i was reading this thread and i was all excited to read the end so i can find a solotion to this no-hp after 5k rpm. i have a 90 tII tho, but the same problem, so i'm betting it's the ecu. mines a little different. when i hit 5k it goes lean then at 6500 it hits back up like a bitch outa no where. but this is only if i'm flooring it all the way threw, also if i'm racing the engine alot this problem goes away a little but i can feel in decrease in power. i'll post the logit settings maybe you guys can help us out a little better

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Please upload the map, screenshots don't help much.

thewird

RotaryBuddha

iTrader: (4)

Settings 5 injectors setup looks very fishy.

84 rotary rocket

http://www.quickfilepost.com/downloa...25bb5e36619bb6

i hope that's good enough for yea

thewird

iTrader: (8)

RotaryBuddha is probably right, you need to set your correct injectors in settings 5.

Having said that, I don't like how retarded your leading is and I don't like how small the split is at high RPM although they are probably safe as a combo, its not really how it should be. Are you tuning this yourself?

thewird

84 rotary rocket

yes.... i'm kind of a novice at this so i probably should not, but i'm broke as a joke. i bought the car with a broken ecu "easy fix right" hardest ecu to find, after getting some from japan and ebay those failed so i went for the apexi. other than that i barely get 10 mpg, thanx for the help, i'll try the yahoo group thing.

thewird

iTrader: (8)

What injectors do you have?

thewird

84 rotary rocket

stock as far as i know

bencb44

iTrader: (2)

I've got a little bit of an update. I did the 9v battery test on my secondary injectors and they didn't click, so I sent them to RC Engineering to get cleaned. Turns out one of them was stuck closed.

I also went and checked my harness to see if its still good. With the injector unplugged, I got continuity from the B/Y power wire, to the ecu, but no continuity from the lg wires which are the ones that look like they are attached to the ecu connector. I figured that meant that my harness is toast, but I decided to check one of the primaries, since they both work fine. I got the exact same readings with it, too. So now I'm confused.

I started another thread about this issue, so I guess I'll ask my questions there, and just update this when I get things figured out.