Overall Review: Two Thumbs up!

Great product, great customer service, works as advertised.

Pros: Allows the injection of "clean" 2 cycle oil via the stock OMP versus using motor oil, helping to reduce carbon buildup. Inexpensive. Excellent support and very cool company!

Cons: None. Pretty easy installation.

Wanted to share my install of the Rotary Aviation OMP adapter. Worked with Dominic from Real World Solutions, the distributors for the OMP adapter and for other rotary products such as RA Super Seals: http://www.rotaryaviation.com. Have had great experiences with Dominic and Laura in the past as I use their RA Super Seals in my car as well. Very good people and are committed to the rotary community.

This modification has been on my list for the past few years and now that the car was in the shop decided to add on the OMP Adapter. For me, it's never a bad idea to replace the use of motor oil as an internal lubricant with a clean source of oil. The RA OMP Adapter fits the bill. From the Real World Solutions website:

"Wankel engines such as the one used in the MAZDA RX7 sports car, need oil in the combustion area for lubricating the metal seals. Most stock rotary engines use a metering pump which injects a small amount of engine oil from the oil pan into the intake manifold and/or directly into the combustion chamber. Engine oil is designed to lubricate sleeve bearings and carry heat from the engine interior to some cooling areas. In the RX7, the heat is removed from the oil via an oil cooler.

When engine oil is injected into the combustion chamber, it only is partially burned, leaving some unburned deposits behind. These deposits can build up and reduce engine performance, cause apex seals to stick and leave to poor compression and an eventual engine overhaul.

One obvious method of preventing this is to disconnect the metering pump altogether and mix two-stroke oil to the gasoline, like some older two-stroke engines require. With this method it has been demonstrated that two-stroke oil is an effective lubricant and there is no build up of combustion residues. The Metering Pump Adapter, as offered by Real World Solutions, takes the solution one step further by allowing the builder to continue using the stock metering pump, but supply it with two-stroke oil."

The install of the OMP Adapter is very straightforward and the directions supplied by Real World Solutions very good. One adds on the adapter to the OMP and once installed, you attach it to a supply line for an oil tank reservoir and you are done. I use Idemitsu Premix Premix at Idemitsu Lubricants America Corporation in place of two-stroke oil.

Pics of the RA OMP Adapter. It's a very well crafted and quality piece:





Pic of how it attaches to the OMP:



And a shot of the oil tank reservoir I used. It's a Mishimoto catch can from Summit Racing that we modified for use with the RA OMP Adapter:



Previously, I used a Microtech ECU so my OMP was mechanically controlled. This has been replaced with a Haltech PS2000 ECU that now directly controls the OMP and flow rates.

So, all in all, a nice modification made possible from a well-priced, quality unit supplied by a pro-customer company.

 

Make sure you still premix. I was solely relying on this setup in my car and found I wasnt getting sufficient oil to lube everything. There were a few other factors that could have affected the wear of my seals. i.e. meth. But I will be premixing and still using the RA adapter.

But like David said its a very good product.

 

their description is a little misleading about premixes. you do not want the oil to burn which is what causes carbon to form, although the unburnt portion prevents it from sticking to engine internals.

one of the highest flashpoint 2 stroke lubricants is Motul 800 T2 "offroad", with the exception it runs about 20 bucks a quart. AMSoil has some that are supposedly better but could not find the flashpoint info for their line.

while engine oil has a high flash point as well, non synthetics contain carbon which is left behind after being combusted.

this is a better alternative to the factory crankcase OMP but still only lubricates a portion of the engine internals versus premixing which gets just about every portion of the unsealed internals(crankcase).

 

As a mechanically challenged guy, if I premix, doesn't that then get injected via the gas thru the injectors right to the same place as the OMP? Not challenging just what is the difference?

 

The fuel/oil mixture will lubricate anything the fuel touches, which is the entire combustion area. The oil injectors dribble onto the center of the apex seal only. If youve ever taken an engine apart, most times you can see a narrow area in the center of the seal where to omp nozzles dribble, and not much else. Premix should provide a more complete lubrication of all the friction surfaces.

 

yes, and you can actually follow a specific wear line starting at the injector ports in the rotor housings. the apex seals will conform but the housings take wear from it. probably less dramatic with 2 stroke OMP versus crankcase oil which the wear is likely from oil contaminants. but you can actually see the lubrication/wear trail it leaves. all of the crankcase oil has metal deposits from bearings, seals and carbon in it.

not trying to start another premixing versus OMP argument, it works still even though i feel it isn't quite adequate in amount of oil injected or the total lubrication from injecting pre intake port.

 

^ Okay, thanks.

 

How many miles with RA adapter ? any issue?
I have buy this adapter too but I didnt install it yet

 

how many miles with the system are ya up to?? Really liking the theory behind this product, I wanna run light premix and this system together.

 

Nevermind....

 

Just saw this, sorry. Didn't get a chance to put many miles on the car before the engine was pulled for rebuild about 1.5 years ago. Solid product though and works as promoted.

 

David, do you have any idea how often you would have to refill the 2 stroke oil tank you had?

I also have the RA adapter that I still didn't put in, and I'm debating what size of oil tank to get.

 

^ You won't have to fill it very often, depending on your setup and how you control the OMP. The amount of consumption of oil is no different whether you use the stock setup or the Rotary Aviation adapter as it only changes where the oil comes from.

If you have a stock setup, then you will use about 1/2 to 1 quart of oil every 3,000 or so miles. Obviously the more spirited you drive, the more oil the ECU will inject as I believe it works off of a linear relationship. If you have an aftermarket ECU, then you will most likely be able to program the rate of oil injection. For example, my Haltech PS2000 uses a customizable map for oil injection. I believe we had it set at around 3% on the low end but I'd have to verify that.

In any event, I think a modified oil catch can setup like I used would keep you in oil for a good amount of miles and you'll probably not need to fill it up any more than what you'd normally do with the car anyway.

 

Thanks for the info. I will use a PFC and I might kick up the injection rate under boost.

 

No problems, glad to help.

 

In their description,

With the OMP adapter installed, all that is needed is a small oil tank with two-stroke oil, connected to the OMP Adapter. The oil level in the tank should never be less than 6” above the metering pump.*

Was the position of the tank installed sufficient to achieve this?

 

Yes. The OMP sits pretty low so you can mount the tank almost anywhere to make it at least 6 inches higher.

 

So when trying to buy one at ra's website, it has 12a and s5 options for electric omp, what about s4? Building s4 with mechanical omp.

 

Bump

No buy without a reply.

 

Maybe try the FC section?

 

So was the original hose that was pulling engine oil blocked off? How was this managed?

Thanks!

 

I don't work for Rotary Aviation - just a customer. Call Dominic at RA and I am sure he can answer your question.

The adapter sits between the original OMP and the engine and it blocks off the oil flow from the engine. So, you don't really have to do anything except remove the OMP and then place the adapter between the engine and the OMP and it takes care of the issue. In turn, you then feed the adapter with a "clean" source of oil.

The manual they send is pretty comprehensive and covers the steps for installation.

 

Will do, thank you anyhow.