Replacing battery tomorrow. AGM? Optima?
09-13-18, 01:49 AM
#1
Hi sir
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Replacing battery tomorrow. AGM? Optima?
My crap Costco interstate won't crank the car after two days on the C-tec on recondition setting.
Looking to use it as a core and just get something good.
I have the 51R size "Honda" battery in there due to the intercooler size. Is there a consensus on the value of an optima or perhaps going with an AMG battery assuming I can find one around town?
Thoughts? Concerns? Thanks guys.
Looking to use it as a core and just get something good.
I have the 51R size "Honda" battery in there due to the intercooler size. Is there a consensus on the value of an optima or perhaps going with an AMG battery assuming I can find one around town?
Thoughts? Concerns? Thanks guys.
09-13-18, 09:24 AM
#2
Racecar - Formula 2000
My crap Costco interstate won't crank the car after two days on the C-tec on recondition setting.
Looking to use it as a core and just get something good.
I have the 51R size "Honda" battery in there due to the intercooler size. Is there a consensus on the value of an optima or perhaps going with an AMG battery assuming I can find one around town?
Thoughts? Concerns? Thanks guys.
Looking to use it as a core and just get something good.
I have the 51R size "Honda" battery in there due to the intercooler size. Is there a consensus on the value of an optima or perhaps going with an AMG battery assuming I can find one around town?
Thoughts? Concerns? Thanks guys.
09-13-18, 10:47 AM
#3
^ +1
Deka is local to me, from the limited research I've done they make battery for most of the brand out there, a lot of the battery you get in store/online are just re-badged Deka with a mark up. You can get them directly from Deka for cheaper, just need to find the corresponding model number.
I have the AGM Miata battery in the rear bin, about 4 years old and it's working well for me. Pairing it with an IRP 140A alternator, my battery always read 12.3V when the car is off. If you don't let these battery drain they last a long time, and storing them in room temperature in the winter helps too (well for us with brutal winter
).
Deka is local to me, from the limited research I've done they make battery for most of the brand out there, a lot of the battery you get in store/online are just re-badged Deka with a mark up. You can get them directly from Deka for cheaper, just need to find the corresponding model number.
I have the AGM Miata battery in the rear bin, about 4 years old and it's working well for me. Pairing it with an IRP 140A alternator, my battery always read 12.3V when the car is off. If you don't let these battery drain they last a long time, and storing them in room temperature in the winter helps too (well for us with brutal winter
).
09-13-18, 11:05 AM
#4
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
IMHO Optima is a lot of marketing, nothing amazing about their batteries.
I would get a good quality regular battery. Just make sure it's the right size and everything and you're good to go.
Dale
I would get a good quality regular battery. Just make sure it's the right size and everything and you're good to go.
Dale
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ATC529R (05-21-22)
09-13-18, 12:43 PM
#6
Hi sir
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I had two of the yellow tops years ago when Costco still sold them and I had issues too. They worked OK but when they died they acted just like any other battery but for 2X+ the cost.
09-13-18, 12:45 PM
#7
Hi sir
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^ +1
Deka is local to me, from the limited research I've done they make battery for most of the brand out there, a lot of the battery you get in store/online are just re-badged Deka with a mark up. You can get them directly from Deka for cheaper, just need to find the corresponding model number.
I have the AGM Miata battery in the rear bin, about 4 years old and it's working well for me. Pairing it with an IRP 140A alternator, my battery always read 12.3V when the car is off. If you don't let these battery drain they last a long time, and storing them in room temperature in the winter helps too (well for us with brutal winter).
Deka is local to me, from the limited research I've done they make battery for most of the brand out there, a lot of the battery you get in store/online are just re-badged Deka with a mark up. You can get them directly from Deka for cheaper, just need to find the corresponding model number.
I have the AGM Miata battery in the rear bin, about 4 years old and it's working well for me. Pairing it with an IRP 140A alternator, my battery always read 12.3V when the car is off. If you don't let these battery drain they last a long time, and storing them in room temperature in the winter helps too (well for us with brutal winter
).Trending Topics
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WANKfactor (09-13-18)
09-13-18, 02:05 PM
#9
It's not required for AGM battery, but with the stock alternator I was seeing voltage as low as 13V at idle when the fans and lights are on in traffic. This could be due to the battery relocation (longer + cable) or just a tired old alternator, I did not have a PFC when I have a stock battery so I don't know if the voltage were the same then, but 13V at idle is a little out of my comfort zone, ideally I like to see 13.5V or higher with fans and lights on so I upgraded it to the IRP unit. Now I see 14V at idle, 13.8V at idle when there's load, and 13.6V when the car is super heatsoaked in traffic with fans running.
09-13-18, 04:23 PM
#11
Braile B3121 has a crap ton of CCA and a decent amount of reserve capacity. It turns my 20b over with ease. Highly recommended!
https://www.braillebattery.com/index...atteries/b3121
https://www.braillebattery.com/index...atteries/b3121
09-13-18, 05:25 PM
#13
Junior Member
How about lithium ion batteries like shorai and antigravity? Given the under 5lb weight, usually higher CCA, only lower Ah, why aren’t they common choice on non-daily drivers? Does it affect alternator? I have searched this topic on the forum but still would like to hear from you guys.
09-13-18, 05:35 PM
#14
How about lithium ion batteries like shorai and antigravity? Given the under 5lb weight, usually higher CCA, only lower Ah, why aren’t they common choice on non-daily drivers? Does it affect alternator? I have searched this topic on the forum but still would like to hear from you guys.
09-13-18, 10:50 PM
#15
The difference is because they can charge that since most sports car enthusiasts, like us, spend at a different level of spending. The average motorcycle enthusiast can't afford a $2,000 battery. It's the same as the cost of roof on a small house in a average neighborhood is three times cheaper than the same roof, on the same size house, in a very upscale neighborhood. Same shingle, same crew, same job, different street address, much more profit!!! Greed because they can!!!
Mike
Mike
10-01-18, 10:29 AM
#18
I've run Odyssey PC925 in my FD storage bin since I got the car in 2000. IMO it's a much better size for a street car than the PC680 that a lot of guys run but still much smaller and lighter than the stock battery.
Battery has 3 year full replacement warranty, without fail they crap out on me at 3.1 years and I have to spend another $180.
Batteries Plus stocks this battery, and a couple weeks ago when I replaced mine they had a 10% off coupon if you purchase online and pick up in the store. Made it cheaper than amazon or anywhere else I found online.
Battery has 3 year full replacement warranty, without fail they crap out on me at 3.1 years and I have to spend another $180.
Batteries Plus stocks this battery, and a couple weeks ago when I replaced mine they had a 10% off coupon if you purchase online and pick up in the store. Made it cheaper than amazon or anywhere else I found online.
10-01-18, 09:56 PM
#19
Ditto Tom93R1 above.
PC925 in the rear bin here. Last one lasted about 10 years while my FD was my daily. Note that I have an underdrive pulley and the "diode mod" to properly charge an AGM battery (I spoke about this in another thread, pls search).
The '925 is plenty if you don't need a ton of reserve capacity for tailgate parties or leave your lights on a lot.
PC925 in the rear bin here. Last one lasted about 10 years while my FD was my daily. Note that I have an underdrive pulley and the "diode mod" to properly charge an AGM battery (I spoke about this in another thread, pls search).
The '925 is plenty if you don't need a ton of reserve capacity for tailgate parties or leave your lights on a lot.
10-03-18, 10:48 AM
#20
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Ditto Tom93R1 above.
PC925 in the rear bin here. Last one lasted about 10 years while my FD was my daily. Note that I have an underdrive pulley and the "diode mod" to properly charge an AGM battery (I spoke about this in another thread, pls search).
The '925 is plenty if you don't need a ton of reserve capacity for tailgate parties or leave your lights on a lot.
PC925 in the rear bin here. Last one lasted about 10 years while my FD was my daily. Note that I have an underdrive pulley and the "diode mod" to properly charge an AGM battery (I spoke about this in another thread, pls search).
The '925 is plenty if you don't need a ton of reserve capacity for tailgate parties or leave your lights on a lot.
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Speed of light (10-06-18)
10-03-18, 10:49 AM
#21
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i made a little spreadsheet of the factory info, it helps to know the stock spec before you do something else..
Miata batteries are 320cca originally and 370cca now
the Mx5 (2006+) is a 51R, 340 and 500cca
Miata batteries are 320cca originally and 370cca now
the Mx5 (2006+) is a 51R, 340 and 500cca
Last edited by j9fd3s; 10-03-18 at 12:44 PM.
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Speed of light (10-06-18)
10-07-18, 11:44 AM
#22
Speed of light,
I read the post about the diode mod and understand the concept and I want to modify my system since I just got a new AGM battery. I am uncertain, even after looking the wiring manual, which wire to cut and splice in the diode. Is the White/Green wire coming for the EGI fuse to the alternator or the Black/White wire coming for the meter fuse?
Thanks
Mike
I read the post about the diode mod and understand the concept and I want to modify my system since I just got a new AGM battery. I am uncertain, even after looking the wiring manual, which wire to cut and splice in the diode. Is the White/Green wire coming for the EGI fuse to the alternator or the Black/White wire coming for the meter fuse?
Thanks
Mike
10-08-18, 02:58 PM
#24
My Costco Interstate (also a 51R) just died. It says 2011 on the sticker. I think that's pretty good, especially considering that Duralast and other auto store brands easily cost 2x as much. When did car batteries cost $150-200? It wasn't that long ago they were $50 
10-15-18, 10:50 AM
#25
How about lithium ion batteries like shorai and antigravity? Given the under 5lb weight, usually higher CCA, only lower Ah, why aren’t they common choice on non-daily drivers? Does it affect alternator? I have searched this topic on the forum but still would like to hear from you guys.
They work very well and the mid sized ones can be beaten on and still turn over a high compression 3 rotor with ease, however, I've found they seem to like heat even less than a standard AGM. Put one in a tube frame GT race vehicle and it decided to internally 'splode/deform whereas the AGM that was there was a OK for many a season. I will say, however, that the placement we decided is pretty stupid from a battery longevity standpoint (too close to the cabin divider for the exhaust) but perfect from the perspective of optimal weight distro. :/