So I've done a lot of searching and it all came up with very vague information. That or no pictures and with my FD being my first rotary, it's a pain to know the terms, and with everything being so cramped...I'll be honest, I get lost.

Anyway, the background on why I'm doing this. I was driving my car, ran good, then it stopped building boost. I noticed the turbos were sounding different, QUIET! and the air bypass/recirculation valve was quiet also, so it wasn't necessarily a vacuum issue, I figured a vacuum issue would have caused no boost, but the turbos would sound fine when spooling, which they dont. I also could hear somewhat of an exhaust leak, and smell it, so I had a leak before the turbos...was what I came to.

I've ALMOST got it all apart, broke two bolts, one for a heat shield part, and one where the downpipe connects to the exhaust...not too happy about that..I also noticed that one bolt wasn't even there...I have two hoses left holding the turbos on. A coolant one, and a vacuum hose. The coolant one is the lower one that is connected to the turbos, and the vacuum line is connected to one of the actuators on the front turbo, it's the bottom actuator. It seems impossible to get it, all of the metal vacuum lines in that area are a pain. the coolant line is corroded on..badly..having issues getting it to come off. With this said, how much harder should the rest of the job be? is it as much as a PITA as it is to take apart?

Could use some tips..working on this car made me feel like I don't know anything about cars..

I'd post a pic but my phone decided to not work, go figure.

 

Here are a couple of good sites to get you started. I am also pretty sure others can chime in to help you with the removal of the turbos should you need to.

http://www.fd3s.net/boost_problems.html

http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...leshooting.htm

And last but certainly not the least, is...

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...08#post3723608

 

Yes, removing the turbos is a pain. If yours is a right hand drive I believe you have to move the steering rack? Someone else could comment on that. But sounds like they need to come out. The FSM explains it quite well. I think it's about a 6-8 hour job. I would want to pull them just to check everything. Goog luck.

 

If the coolant lines are not coming off easily I recommend cutting them off and replacing them with new lines from Mazda. Those particular lines don't last the life of the car and when they pop it's big bad for the engine.

David

 

I have a pic of what bolt you need to remove in order to get the turbos off. Maybe it will help

 

Ugh, any picture of the stock twins looks like cancer to me.

=Benjamin

 

Thanks for the help, yeah it is RHD so i had to disconnect the steering rod and stick it to the side. I would like to just buy all new hoses and scrap these, but I don't have a dealer anywhere near me, and with the car having 60k on it I figured things wouldn't be all that bad..I was wrong. Haha. I'll be back at working on it tomorrow, who knows how that will go...

 

I got everything off, cleaned the surfaces, and mounted the manifold and torqued it down, I'm using the pineapple racing graphite gaskets. Anyway, I stopped there, realizing that The studs I have to further continue are sub par, and that one is busted, I need to order new ones. Wheres a good place to order them? I need the studs that connect the turbos to the manifold, and for the downpipe to connect to the exhausts. Any good places to order them from?

 

Okay so I uploaded some pics that I took today of things that don't look too good.

On the turbos...


O2 sensor..looks like its seen better days


Wtf would these wires be used for? it says audio wiring on them....they don't go anywhere..they are just chilling on the manifold...

 

Although I can't help you very much, I do know that cracking on the turbo side of the manifold is not unusual. And that wiring looks like some kind of ghetto attempt to get a very good ground lol.

 

The cracks on the turbos are normal ... I assume you have about 45,000 miles on them. The 02 sensor should be replaced every 60K. but you don't need for the PFC.

 

Get new studs and nuts from Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda 888-533-3400

Make a shopping list so you can get it all at once.

 

God those things are a MAJOR hemorrhoid to take off and then put back on... There're a couple of 14mm/ 9/16" manifold bolts that do NOT want to come off...

The best it the top, rear DP bolt.... I STRONGLY recommend yanking the inlet 'Y' before you decide to attack the manifold. It's only the piping connectors to the filters and 4 10mm nuts.

 

i ordered new studs and nuts yesterday..they will be in next week...ugh. another week without a mode of transportation, last time i own an fd as my only car without having a daily

 

I caught myself yelling at the rear coolant line the other day. My neighbors must have been having a good laugh at their neighborhood gaijin. It's almost easier to pull the engine and do it. Little more work, but a lot less frustration.

By the way I've heard the graphite gaskets don't last very long, and require re-torquing after a certain # of miles.

 

sadly that's what I hear too, which, frankly, i'm not looking forward to. they say after the first heat phase they need to be re-torqued

 

I'd just get OEM gaskets through Ray....little more money but a lot less headache.

 

Be sure to mark your bottom return lines (the hard ones) for orientation... Mar on one end FT or RT so you know which is front and which is rear; top and bottom.

 

I remember **** job on my RHD rx7. And was also a beginner mechanic boy was it not fun! I mean, at times everything went alright but at other times things were hell, I hope you have success! Anyways, I don't recall having to remove my steering column or move it at all, but I do know I debated it with a friend. Just have patience with everything, and get creative with different socket attachments :-). Also helps to have a girl with very small hands that can fit into some tight spaces on the car. All and all the job took a long time, but had a couple broken studs and other issues. Most of he work was done from under the car, also replaced the clutch. Next time, if there is a next time, I may yank the engine, lots recommend it and hey it would be beneficial to know how.Then when you replace an engine it is easier the second time round :-)

Best of luck! Patience, and yeah yelling and swearing at car parts doesn't do much, just provides a comical relief for your neighbors.

 

LOL. The last bit is DEFINITELY the truth!

I had people telling me that I HAD to yank the engine, to do the task... Not really, but patience is the key.

 

i actually removed the turbos and downpipe without removing the steering rack on my jdm fd ... painnn in the butt.. thats why i went single.. not that it is any easier.. but sorry to hijack but its running now
anyway get lots of liquid wrench... haha..
cheers

 

i had to take it off because of the stud that broke off not giving me enough room to slide the pipe off. it sucks. ill be putting the car together next weekend when the new bolts come in, ordered them from the dealership

 

Dude, while you're in there, may as well do a full vac reduction!

You running NS? There're only about 5 vac lines that need to be there and it's pretty quick (Assuming you're vac situation is at least on stock level, unlinke mine was, when I under took this project)

I think it took me about 4 hours to do JUST the vac lines (ADD kicked in a few times, so I got side-tracked by other ****).

 

i'm running sequential right now and i dont mind it, yes, its a pain in the *** to work on, but the drive ability is fine, plus the ecu is tuned by re amemiya and i dont feel like making significant changes