If I remove the two locknuts under the engine mount - unbolt all the bellhousing bolts + the two starter bolt, can I pull the engine and leave the transmission?

Do i need to support the transmission after I separate them...Eyeballing it, I didn't see any support to the tranny after separating the engine.
All the support bracket looks like all connected to the engine????

thanks

 

Its a good idea to support anything when you are doing a project this extensive and you have no experience. Until you know what is going to shift and move where, you are best to brace things to spare a few pinched fingers, etc. It will also enable you to re-install the engine a bit easier from an alignment standpoint when you go to put it back in. I always wedge an appropriate sized board between the tranny and the engine carriage bracing. Is it absolutely essential? No. If I recall correctly, the engine carriage will catch the front edge of the transmission.

As for what you need to remove, it sounds like you have covered all of the bolts, but there is the wiring to the tranny sensors that you will need to unplug as well as the unbolting of the clutch slave to be completely free to go.

 

you also need to seperate the throwout bearing from the pressure plate

 

^^True.

 

"As for what you need to remove, it sounds like you have covered all of the bolts, but there is the wiring to the tranny sensors that you will need to unplug as well as the unbolting of the clutch slave to be completely free to go."

I'm looking at that clutch slave - but it seems bolted to the side (lip) of the transmission bell housing which I don't need to touch???


"you also need to seperate the throwout bearing from the pressure plate"
Is that after I separate or before I separate the engine to the transmission???
At this point I'm just using a cherry picker to separate the engine to the tranny.

 

Bro. Easiest way. Start from one side of the engine and work all the way around. You'll see all the wiring that's connected. And pieces that need to come off.

Good luck!

 

You'll also need to remove the 6 bolts holding the clutch to the flywheel.

Yes support the tranny.

If you have AC/PS, those stay in the engine bay.

 

why would you do that when you can remove the clip as pointed out in the video above?

 

I'm all set on all the wiring & vacuums. I labeled them all and tie wrapped them on the side & out of the way.

I'm confused on the throw out bearing post. Why do I need to take the throw out bearing during the removal of the engine against the transmission?
I can take that out after I remove the engine...or I need do that that first before I can separate it to the tranny??

 

I Put jack under trans.. had my buddy jack it up a little as I jacked up the motor, the motor mounts cleared easy then
After I put a wood board under trans across and under front of subframe so I could move the car out in driveway to degrease engine bay

 

That pull type clutch needs disengaged .. unbolt inspection cover ( thinks its 2 10 mm bolts) use a screw driver to disengage throwout .. there plenty of videos on youtube

 

It's been two years since I removed my engine. Luckily! My information is a bit old so bear with me. Haha.

I just unbolted it and pushed the clutch in to pop it off the flywheel. At least that's what I remember. My clutch was left in the tranny and I took it out from there.

I think...

 

Ahhhhh, ok now I know. it's a pull type. I saw the cover on the top. I can work my way out there using a screw driver to push the spring latch to the throw out bearing.

 

hi the throughout bearing is a pain to get out just unbolt the 6 bolts holding the clutch.
Thanks

 

Do not unbolt the pressure plate, its a pain in the ***. I did that the first time I pulled my engine and it took me forever to get it to line back up right. Just watch the video and spend 30 seconds disengaging the throw out bearing

 

ok...at a least I know the difficulty on both procedures.

I've been watching this guy's video all the way and he was not able to take it out but I will try my best.

 

Get a transmission jack to hold the tran, they are cheap, and you can use it later to do your diff if you need.

 

if you unbolt the clutch slave it should remove some of the "base" tension pulling the throwout bearing to begin with. This will easily allow you to use one hand to push the clutch fork which will seat the retaining ring.....you then hold the retaining ring against the clutch fingers as the above video is trying to do...and then release the clutch fork which will then pull the throwout bearing from the clutch.

Hope that made sense....again with the slave clutch still bolted on the trans...it will be pushing against the clutch fork which will require more force to push the retaining ring in to begin with. And as the gentlemen struggling above shows....you need any help you can get.

I personally was anticipating this to be one of the biggest hassles and literally took me only 10 seconds....I was shocked....after all the 'horror's stories i've read over the years. good luck

 

First time I ever messed with that pull style .. once u figure it out .. it does only take like 10sec

 

yep, removing the slave makes it a lot easier. and if you don't have girly arms it is easy without removing anything.

 

"if you unbolt the clutch slave it should remove some of the "base" tension pulling the throwout bearing to begin with. "

That make sense -- i will do that.

 

Yes
Yes...but you need the MAZDA SST

 

^^ nice .. my mazda sst was bigger then that didnt say mazda must of been aftermarket

 

I'm still confused removing the circular clip to withdraw the throw out bearing.

I took picture. Three windows (showing) Window on top of the engine - window at the bell housing - window at the clutch slave after removing it but does not seems I can see the circular clip on the three windows? I used a flashlight but can't view the circular clip.

Do I need to take all the bell housing bolts and pull the engine 2 to 3 inches apart first to get a bigger view of the circular clip and work from there?

 

Seems like it would have been easier for you to remove the trans with the engine as a unit. I don't like removing the engine alone. It's to hard (for me) to get the aligned when putting them back in. I always remove the engine/trans as a unit.