Remflex Exhaust Gasket
#1
Where does this bolt go?
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Remflex Exhaust Gasket
I have read some post about these gaskets dating back to 2007/2008. For the guys running these gaskets, how are they holding up? Here is a link to the website if you don't know about these gaskets. http://www.remflex.com/exclusive_features.htm
#2
Racecar - Formula 2000
So far, so good. No problems at all. I used them in the joint from the cat to the RB DT catback, and in the joint in the middle of the catback unit itself.
#5
Where does this bolt go?
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I bought the gasket that goes between the manifold and engine. Its a nice looking gasket, the package states to torque at 16 to 18 ft/lbs. It seems low but the gasket is supposed to cushion the gap and spring back under thermal fluctuations. I guess I will find out soon enough.
#6
RX-7 Bad Ass
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I have a very slight misalignment between my downpipe and high-flow cat. Just bought 2 of these to see if this helps seal the gap up. Good stuff!
Dale
Dale
#7
Racecar - Formula 2000
Here's the link to my original post on this:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=remflex
Dave
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=remflex
Dave
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#8
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Another thing to do, particularly for the gaskets right at the turbo, is to take your used stock gasket and spread it open.
Take a pliers and grip the gasket at the inside edge. Now take a utility knife and slip it in between the metal layers on the outside edge and twist the knife to distort the layers ever so slightly. Work your way around the gasket with the pliers and knife. The pliers are to keep from popping open the crimp on the inside edge. If you take your time the gasket will go from a pancake-flat 1/8" thick to a slightly wavy 3/16 to 1/4" thick that will crush again and seal when you tighten the flange.
For the exhaust gaskets that are further downstream, the remflex or SCE copper embossed gaskets will work very well.
Take a pliers and grip the gasket at the inside edge. Now take a utility knife and slip it in between the metal layers on the outside edge and twist the knife to distort the layers ever so slightly. Work your way around the gasket with the pliers and knife. The pliers are to keep from popping open the crimp on the inside edge. If you take your time the gasket will go from a pancake-flat 1/8" thick to a slightly wavy 3/16 to 1/4" thick that will crush again and seal when you tighten the flange.
For the exhaust gaskets that are further downstream, the remflex or SCE copper embossed gaskets will work very well.
#13
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Sorry to bump an old thread, but i developed a big exhaust leak after my last pass at the track last week. I think it is coming from the front manifold-to-motor gasket, so i was just searching for solutions. I'm going to dig into it tonight and make sure. These seem to be a good option especially if they perform better than the expensive Mazda gaskets. Is everyone still happy with them? Would you go with them again or look for another option?
#14
Where does this bolt go?
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I have about 5 or 6 thousand miles on my Remflex gasket, between the manifold and the engine. I am running an Aspec gt35r at about 15psi on stock ports, with no problems yet.
#17
Canadiana... Eh?
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I just took my manifold off today... after running a remflex for about 6 months. it held up GREAT.. nothing but good things to say and I'm going to get another one for when the mani goes back on.
#18
Rotary Freak
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It seems that the Subaru folks aren't too happy with this gasket:
Link here: http://74.125.93.132/search?q=cache:...ient=firefox-a
Link here: http://74.125.93.132/search?q=cache:...ient=firefox-a
#20
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When I took mine off after a year of use, yes it was very brittle and fell apart. Mine looked the same after they were taken off... it just happens. BUT... when torqued down properly and left alone the work perfect.
keep in mind those are exhaust gaskets... only two bolts hold that togethor. a manifold gasket has 4 bolts and a lot more pressure holding it down. They also seem to have more "meat" on them.
keep in mind those are exhaust gaskets... only two bolts hold that togethor. a manifold gasket has 4 bolts and a lot more pressure holding it down. They also seem to have more "meat" on them.
#21
Junior Member
The material on these gaskets look very similar to Pineapple Racing's proprietary gaskets, except that Pineapple's gaskets have a stainless steel mesh core so they have some physical strength.
The sealing surfaces are a similar crush-able graphite material.
The pricing of Pineapple's gaskets are similar & they do manifold, turbo & downpipe gaskets.
The sealing surfaces are a similar crush-able graphite material.
The pricing of Pineapple's gaskets are similar & they do manifold, turbo & downpipe gaskets.
#22
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The material on these gaskets look very similar to Pineapple Racing's proprietary gaskets, except that Pineapple's gaskets have a stainless steel mesh core so they have some physical strength.
The sealing surfaces are a similar crush-able graphite material.
The pricing of Pineapple's gaskets are similar & they do manifold, turbo & downpipe gaskets.
The sealing surfaces are a similar crush-able graphite material.
The pricing of Pineapple's gaskets are similar & they do manifold, turbo & downpipe gaskets.
#24
Moderator
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The material on these gaskets look very similar to Pineapple Racing's proprietary gaskets, except that Pineapple's gaskets have a stainless steel mesh core so they have some physical strength.
The sealing surfaces are a similar crush-able graphite material.
The pricing of Pineapple's gaskets are similar & they do manifold, turbo & downpipe gaskets.
The sealing surfaces are a similar crush-able graphite material.
The pricing of Pineapple's gaskets are similar & they do manifold, turbo & downpipe gaskets.
According to Rob he recommends them for low backpressure applications only (no cat). I ran one on my downpipe gasket by the turbos (I have a cat) and it blew out in a couple thousand miles. Mazda gasket again. No fault of Pineapple.
Dave
#25
Urban Combat Vet
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Another thing to do, particularly for the gaskets right at the turbo, is to take your used stock gasket and spread it open.
Take a pliers and grip the gasket at the inside edge. Now take a utility knife and slip it in between the metal layers on the outside edge and twist the knife to distort the layers ever so slightly. Work your way around the gasket with the pliers and knife. The pliers are to keep from popping open the crimp on the inside edge. If you take your time the gasket will go from a pancake-flat 1/8" thick to a slightly wavy 3/16 to 1/4" thick that will crush again and seal when you tighten the flange.
Take a pliers and grip the gasket at the inside edge. Now take a utility knife and slip it in between the metal layers on the outside edge and twist the knife to distort the layers ever so slightly. Work your way around the gasket with the pliers and knife. The pliers are to keep from popping open the crimp on the inside edge. If you take your time the gasket will go from a pancake-flat 1/8" thick to a slightly wavy 3/16 to 1/4" thick that will crush again and seal when you tighten the flange.
I used brand-new on my rebuild but I couldn't bring myself to toss the old OEM out because they "looked" just fine. There's a younger guy I know that's doing a rebuild on a budget and if they could be salvaged with some certainty that they wouldn't leak, I'd donate them.