reman installed, won't start, suggestions??

Just got my engine in, cranks normally, I can hear the fuel pump run after cranking, I get spark, compression is OK, but even after extended cranking the plugs are NOT wet, NO fuel smell, nothing. I'm pretty sure the injectors are not triggering. before I start taking things apart, is there anything else that would disable all the injectors? (I had them cleaned by RC Engineering and I know about the issues with freeze ups due to extended storage after servicing, but it was only 3 weeks from when I got them back till I've started cranking this thing over). I'm going back out to the garage now to pull the cover off the ECU and make sure I plugged all the connectors in for sure, but really doubt I missed one. If anybody has any suggestions I'd be glad to hear them. I removed airpump, egr, aws, & acv and did blockoff plates for all and just left the connectors open, which I was told was OK for a 49 state car. new clutch & rebuilt twins too.

ugg

Tom

 

are you sure you plugged injectors ok? try checking all the fuses in the fuse boxes and such. you might try shorting the GND and F/P terminal of the "Diagnostic" box and turning the ignition to the "ON" position" . You should hear the fuel pressurized in the system. do you have enough gas to start the car?

 

I forgot to mention I also removed the power steering and AC, as if it mattered. Just went out and all the connectors are on the ecu, as well as the separate one that goes into the dash harness. I even primed the fuel system as it says in the manual by connecting the fuel pump and gnd terminals in the diagnosis connector and letting it run for 10 secs. The fuel is 5 months old, but that shouldn't matter as it isn't getting to the combustion chamber!, and YES there is 1/2 tank of gas.

Tom

 

will check all fuses next, but tracing circuit info in wiring diagram manual to learn more 1st....

Tom

 

It could be your injectors still, I know it is a pain in the ***.. well maybe not since you blocked off most everything, but you may need to remove the UIM manifold again. Before I reinstall any injectors I test them with a 12V circuit to make sure they click open/closed. I have been through this before where injectors were not firing after installing them, not on the 7 though. The primaries will be a problem to get to and test without removing them, the secondaries are easy though.

 

shouldn't I be able to check with a stethescope to hear them click open? Gotta get someone to turn the key for me...
I can't believe its the injectors, gotta be what's sending them power...
Tom

 

What if the crank trigger ring on the front pulley was off by 180 deg? would that cause the injectors to fire at the wrong time and have the fuel never have a chance to get into the motor?

Tom

 

but the secondaries don't aid in starting the car do they?

try testing the main fuses or switching it out with someone. Also check the connections on the injectors mine are just sitting there they don't click on any more.

what crank trigger ring? Are you talking about the 2 sensors? you switched them or what?

if all that is good I'd try switching out injectors.

 

by click, I meant the sound of the solenoid coil open and closing of the injectors while cranking the engine. The connectors clicked onto the injector sockets, I know that for sure

tom

 

the plated ring that runs past the 2 crank trigger sensors can be installed rotated in 2 different positions. Dunno if it makes a difference or not, I put it back indexed correctly i believe.

 

You don't even need that ring for the car to operate correctly if we're thinking of the same part.

A local friend left his off and has been running the car for a couple months without it.

That's not your problem...next

 

I thought that was what the 2 silver (hall effect?) sensors at the front of the engine by the front pulley used to determine crank position.

 

You should be able to hear them that way, may be tough with the starter and engine whirring away though. And of course the secondaries have nothing to do with the engine starting up, I just assumed we all knew that since the conversation seemed advanced enough.

Wouldn't the timing ring alter the spark timing not injection?

 

that timing ring goes to the ecu, so I assume it determines injector timing as well, but I also assumed this thing would start when I finished and I was wrong about that! One more thing I have to go out and verify is that the fuel hoses are correctly connected, that is, that I don't have the supply on the return side and vice versa (otherwise I think the fuel pump would be running straight into a check valve the wrong way I think) but I'm pretty sure I've got that right.

T

 

Looks like I did indeed have the fuel IN swapped with the fuel OUT at the engine. Swapped lines, primed it and it started like any other day. SOLID oil pressure, NO leaks from lines, a little smoke at the turbos and dp from assembly smudges, but looks good so far. Time to go to sleep now, no nightmares!

Thanks for all the suggestions

Tom

 

good job tom. I reinstall my engine this weekend. I hope I don't have too many problems.

 

If you do any blockoffs and get rid of airpump piping, make sure you make a bracket to brace the pipe that comes up from the rear turbo- there is a lot of leverage on those 2 studs. get a speedbleeder for the clutch slave, because the bubbles rise straight up the hose, making it hard to bleed. watch the fuel line hookup at the motor, make sure you get the right hose on the right nipple. If you blockwelded, get a new radiator and flush the heater core. After starting the engine, add some 2 cycle oil to the gas until you are sure the mop oil is getting to the engine, it may take time for the mop to fill the lines.

Tom