The reliable daily driven FD recipe (for beginners)
Full Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Nashville
This is awesome stuff, and just about all I was gonna do.
I really do want a vented hood tho...
Question: I just found out the turbos on my new FD have been sync'd, apparently by welding something together, what do you suggest I do about it? Live with it? fix it somehow?
Also thinking if taking the car to Redline in Asheville for a proper tuning.
I really do want a vented hood tho...
Question: I just found out the turbos on my new FD have been sync'd, apparently by welding something together, what do you suggest I do about it? Live with it? fix it somehow?
Also thinking if taking the car to Redline in Asheville for a proper tuning.
Fritz, thanks for the write up. You're right about picking up a low mileage but I guess the the FD I bought could be used as a learning experience 
. I bought a used 176,000 mile touring from a forum member. He decided to give up on it after his rebuild didn't last him several months. I bought it off him and thought I had a great deal for $7,500. Everything that was replaced or didn't normally need to be replaced had to be replaced. He thought it was only an apex seal from the rear rotor only but ended up being more.
I had Nick from RRR do the rebuild for me. When he pulled it out and tore the engine apart, he showed me all the parts that went bad (front iron, e-shaft, stationary gear, bearings, oil pump/chain, clutch centerpiece, turbos). I was hoping that the parts I ordered for rebuild would be enough such as new rotor housings, seals, ceramic apex seals (Iannetti), gaskets, clutch, flywheel, AST, Koyo radiator, Greddy SMIC and hoses. Each time I found out something else was wrong, I called back the previous owner to ask him if he noticed anything like rough idle, etc. which later he realized what those things he noticed were. I never gave up on stock turbos, I actually tried to buy 3 used sets from members here, all had issues such as bad turbines, oil leaks, etc. I bought a set of BNR turbos used, Nick inspected them and the primary turbine was bad. I ended up buying new CHRA's.
As of right now, the only thing I am missing from your write up is a Power FC and extra oil cooler (in the process of finding them).
Lessons learned:
-When buying a car to be rebuilt, make sure to have extra funds for parts that don't normally need to be replaced to be replaced, in my case, buying rebuild kit, gasket set, rotor housings, ceramic seals, hoses, radiator, clutch, flywheel, AST weren't enough.
-When buying used turbos, check inside the turbines real close, all sets I bought used had something like chips on the wheels, oil leaks, etc. and in the end, I had to get them rebuilt (even the used BNR set I bought).
-Comp Turbo maybe good at single turbo rebuilds but not stock FD twins. They had leaks (previous owner only ran them for couple of months). Warranty didn't help at all.
. I bought a used 176,000 mile touring from a forum member. He decided to give up on it after his rebuild didn't last him several months. I bought it off him and thought I had a great deal for $7,500. Everything that was replaced or didn't normally need to be replaced had to be replaced. He thought it was only an apex seal from the rear rotor only but ended up being more. I had Nick from RRR do the rebuild for me. When he pulled it out and tore the engine apart, he showed me all the parts that went bad (front iron, e-shaft, stationary gear, bearings, oil pump/chain, clutch centerpiece, turbos). I was hoping that the parts I ordered for rebuild would be enough such as new rotor housings, seals, ceramic apex seals (Iannetti), gaskets, clutch, flywheel, AST, Koyo radiator, Greddy SMIC and hoses. Each time I found out something else was wrong, I called back the previous owner to ask him if he noticed anything like rough idle, etc. which later he realized what those things he noticed were. I never gave up on stock turbos, I actually tried to buy 3 used sets from members here, all had issues such as bad turbines, oil leaks, etc. I bought a set of BNR turbos used, Nick inspected them and the primary turbine was bad. I ended up buying new CHRA's.
As of right now, the only thing I am missing from your write up is a Power FC and extra oil cooler (in the process of finding them).
Lessons learned:
-When buying a car to be rebuilt, make sure to have extra funds for parts that don't normally need to be replaced to be replaced, in my case, buying rebuild kit, gasket set, rotor housings, ceramic seals, hoses, radiator, clutch, flywheel, AST weren't enough.
-When buying used turbos, check inside the turbines real close, all sets I bought used had something like chips on the wheels, oil leaks, etc. and in the end, I had to get them rebuilt (even the used BNR set I bought).
-Comp Turbo maybe good at single turbo rebuilds but not stock FD twins. They had leaks (previous owner only ran them for couple of months). Warranty didn't help at all.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
This is awesome stuff, and just about all I was gonna do.
I really do want a vented hood tho...
Question: I just found out the turbos on my new FD have been sync'd, apparently by welding something together, what do you suggest I do about it? Live with it? fix it somehow?
Also thinking if taking the car to Redline in Asheville for a proper tuning.
I really do want a vented hood tho...
Question: I just found out the turbos on my new FD have been sync'd, apparently by welding something together, what do you suggest I do about it? Live with it? fix it somehow?
Also thinking if taking the car to Redline in Asheville for a proper tuning.
The correct way is to remove the door on the manifold port it etc.... but lot of folks just weld it open so if that's the case you may be able to brake the weld and brake off the bits and pieces so the gate opens and closes easily but you will also have to get the gates and actuators to function on the twins so you may be better off simply pulling everything off. If you need any parts let me know
Fritz, thanks for the write up. You're right about picking up a low mileage but I guess the the FD I bought could be used as a learning experience . I bought a used 176,000 mile touring from a forum member. He decided to give up on it after his rebuild didn't last him several months. I bought it off him and thought I had a great deal for $7,500. Everything that was replaced or didn't normally need to be replaced had to be replaced. He thought it was only an apex seal from the rear rotor only but ended up being more.
I had Nick from RRR do the rebuild for me. When he pulled it out and tore the engine apart, he showed me all the parts that went bad (front iron, e-shaft, stationary gear, bearings, oil pump/chain, clutch centerpiece, turbos). I was hoping that the parts I ordered for rebuild would be enough such as new rotor housings, seals, ceramic apex seals (Iannetti), gaskets, clutch, flywheel, AST, Koyo radiator, Greddy SMIC and hoses. Each time I found out something else was wrong, I called back the previous owner to ask him if he noticed anything like rough idle, etc. which later he realized what those things he noticed were. I never gave up on stock turbos, I actually tried to buy 3 used sets from members here, all had issues such as bad turbines, oil leaks, etc. I bought a set of BNR turbos used, Nick inspected them and the primary turbine was bad. I ended up buying new CHRA's.
As of right now, the only thing I am missing from your write up is a Power FC and extra oil cooler (in the process of finding them).
Lessons learned:
-When buying a car to be rebuilt, make sure to have extra funds for parts that don't normally need to be replaced to be replaced, in my case, buying rebuild kit, gasket set, rotor housings, ceramic seals, hoses, radiator, clutch, flywheel, AST weren't enough.
-When buying used turbos, check inside the turbines real close, all sets I bought used had something like chips on the wheels, oil leaks, etc. and in the end, I had to get them rebuilt (even the used BNR set I bought).
-Comp Turbo maybe good at single turbo rebuilds but not stock FD twins. They had leaks (previous owner only ran them for couple of months). Warranty didn't help at all.
. I bought a used 176,000 mile touring from a forum member. He decided to give up on it after his rebuild didn't last him several months. I bought it off him and thought I had a great deal for $7,500. Everything that was replaced or didn't normally need to be replaced had to be replaced. He thought it was only an apex seal from the rear rotor only but ended up being more. I had Nick from RRR do the rebuild for me. When he pulled it out and tore the engine apart, he showed me all the parts that went bad (front iron, e-shaft, stationary gear, bearings, oil pump/chain, clutch centerpiece, turbos). I was hoping that the parts I ordered for rebuild would be enough such as new rotor housings, seals, ceramic apex seals (Iannetti), gaskets, clutch, flywheel, AST, Koyo radiator, Greddy SMIC and hoses. Each time I found out something else was wrong, I called back the previous owner to ask him if he noticed anything like rough idle, etc. which later he realized what those things he noticed were. I never gave up on stock turbos, I actually tried to buy 3 used sets from members here, all had issues such as bad turbines, oil leaks, etc. I bought a set of BNR turbos used, Nick inspected them and the primary turbine was bad. I ended up buying new CHRA's.
As of right now, the only thing I am missing from your write up is a Power FC and extra oil cooler (in the process of finding them).
Lessons learned:
-When buying a car to be rebuilt, make sure to have extra funds for parts that don't normally need to be replaced to be replaced, in my case, buying rebuild kit, gasket set, rotor housings, ceramic seals, hoses, radiator, clutch, flywheel, AST weren't enough.
-When buying used turbos, check inside the turbines real close, all sets I bought used had something like chips on the wheels, oil leaks, etc. and in the end, I had to get them rebuilt (even the used BNR set I bought).
-Comp Turbo maybe good at single turbo rebuilds but not stock FD twins. They had leaks (previous owner only ran them for couple of months). Warranty didn't help at all.
Yep, I learned a lot from this build. Hopefully all of the new stuff for the rebuild will last (especially the Iannetti's). I can honestly say I almost replaced everything under the hood so it should be running like new. I don't intend on going crazy on this build for more horsepower.
One more thing to add, replace that hood latch cable, good thing I caught it about to give away and replaced it.
One more thing to add, replace that hood latch cable, good thing I caught it about to give away and replaced it.
If you drive in the rain you don't want a vented hood.
The correct way is to remove the door on the manifold port it etc.... but lot of folks just weld it open so if that's the case you may be able to brake the weld and brake off the bits and pieces so the gate opens and closes easily but you will also have to get the gates and actuators to function on the twins so you may be better off simply pulling everything off. If you need any parts let me know
Perfect example of what not to do when purchasing an FD etc...., thanks for sharing and again welcome to the club and good luck with your car
The correct way is to remove the door on the manifold port it etc.... but lot of folks just weld it open so if that's the case you may be able to brake the weld and brake off the bits and pieces so the gate opens and closes easily but you will also have to get the gates and actuators to function on the twins so you may be better off simply pulling everything off. If you need any parts let me know
Perfect example of what not to do when purchasing an FD etc...., thanks for sharing and again welcome to the club and good luck with your car
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
Fritz... Great thread. Don't know how I missed it till now. Every time I read about water injection I still get upset, because when I pushed for it back in 1998 or so, guys on here said, "you don't need water injection. Its a bandaid for not having the right intercooler." Guys in Europe, of course, had been using water injection for years even back then. And I kept saying with water injection the FD can be reliable. I never had any problems with my single turbo setup with water injection.
Also, I want to emphasize what Fritz says about power. These cars, the chassis and their motors are good for about 400 rwhp. That is, the chassis can take 400 whp without too much strain and without having to replace everything that's effected by the power, like diff and tranny braces, mounts, suspension, etc. When you start getting up to 500 who and above, you have to assume you will be regularly putting a lot of money and work into the car to keep it together. Plus, you will begin getting body creaks and rattles you'll never find and fix. At 400 you can just enjoy what is a very, very fast car and drive it every day like you stole it.
And, softer seals, like ALS, are the way to go. The old Hurley seals used to be like the ALS seals until they changed the metal formula. When my motor detonated with the soft Hurley seals, there was no damage to the housings at all. Just like women... Soft is good.
Great writeup, Fritz.
Gordon
Also, I want to emphasize what Fritz says about power. These cars, the chassis and their motors are good for about 400 rwhp. That is, the chassis can take 400 whp without too much strain and without having to replace everything that's effected by the power, like diff and tranny braces, mounts, suspension, etc. When you start getting up to 500 who and above, you have to assume you will be regularly putting a lot of money and work into the car to keep it together. Plus, you will begin getting body creaks and rattles you'll never find and fix. At 400 you can just enjoy what is a very, very fast car and drive it every day like you stole it.
And, softer seals, like ALS, are the way to go. The old Hurley seals used to be like the ALS seals until they changed the metal formula. When my motor detonated with the soft Hurley seals, there was no damage to the housings at all. Just like women... Soft is good.
Great writeup, Fritz.
Gordon
The reliability of the FD is a horse that takes a beating I was just reading the why people want stock FDs thread
I'm one of the guys that says you don't need or want water injection for a 300 rwhp DD car. It's a PIA and sucks in so many ways. I just bought a car from a buddy that just had water injection installed and when I went to test drive his car it was the 1st thing that was jacked up on the car LOL. He's one of the those worried to the bone FD owners who had water injection, pineapple OMP injector thingy, the upgraded water pump etc....etc... on a car that when I floored it in second and 3rd gear he thought I was going to break it.
Specifically if I'm building my DD from scratch I'd do the following things to a completely stock car:
Power:
smic or vmic that keeps intake temps at 50c or lower (this will usually take some custom fabbing)
PFS catback (best sounding exhaust imo)
M2 DP best flowing DP imo
Bonez HF midcat (it's cheap, can take the high temps and is 3 inch for good flow)
PFC good tune at 11.7 afr on 93 octane at 12 psi making 300 rwhp (too many cars tuned at 10.9 running poorly getting 12 mpg on what's called a safe tune/safe until the engine is full of carbon)
Handling:
Tein flex coilovers (tough cheap and work)
Tri point sway bar (very adj and well made)
NEW design stock mounts (the fancy CNC mounts are too low)
Racing breat sway brace
r1 rear bar
Good rubber that's no wider than 255 any more is no fun on a street car in other words sliding a car around at 50 mph is much safer than 70 to 90
Interior:
99 steering wheel
Good stereo head unit and speakers but no subs etc...
Commander holder
Boost gauge
Oil temp gauge
Reliability:
NEW 1200cc bored OEM injectors
Supra TT pump
Surge tank cover thingy to correct the fuel splash problems.
Aluminum AST..... I like the witch craft behind it because these car get very hot when shut off so I believe it's there for a reason
Aluminum Davis radiator from mazdacomp perfect fit that even comes with duct work welded to the sides to fill the air gaps
All kinds of cool things you can do with the PFC like set fuel cut at certain boost levels or rpm, have the fans come on early, inject more oil via the OMP etc..... The PFC is pure gold on this car when utilized properly.
Reliability extremism that can't hurt but I wouldn't do unless I was unemployed and bored out of my mind:
water injection
upgraded water pump
OMP tank and injection system like pineapple makes
the best silicone vacc hoses with heat wrap lol
heat wrapped exhaust
ceramic coated UIM and LIM
space metal all over the engine bay LOL
the aftermarket solenoid kit and or simplified sequential setup with no air pump, double throttle or AWS.
etc....etc.....
PS Keep the stock fly, airpump (unless you go simplified sequential and or don't mind the smell of gas), bushings, motormounts, diff mounts, etc.....
can't believe i haven't seen this thread........great info, looks like i have somewhat gone in the right direction. i need to further educate myself on the PFC and really learn how to work that thing!
Respectfully disagree on WI on a streeted car. BUT I do agree that it can be unreliable if you get too complicated. Seems like guys think they have to go with progressive systems, multi-nozzle yadda yadda yadda. I've had mine for nearly 3 years with out a hic-up. Works flawlessly but it's a simple boost activated system. A properly sized nozzlle, set at a low psi threshold there's not much to go wrong.Monitored with two little LEDs. Eliminated coolant temp spiking during periods of hard boost, knock reduced significantly and judging from my plugs, carbon is being controlled nicely. Stock heat range plugs, stock coils, no amplication and I've never had any break-up. Intuitively I suspect a little hp sacrificed, but I honestly can't tell from the seat.
I installed a water injection system in lieu of upgrading the intercooler. It was a good move, less expensive than a nice condition SMIC and more effective. Not as simple as an air-to-air but I would suspect my engine is fairly clean internally so that is a plus.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
Respectfully disagree on WI on a streeted car. BUT I do agree that it can be unreliable if you get too complicated. Seems like guys think they have to go with progressive systems, multi-nozzle yadda yadda yadda. I've had mine for nearly 3 years with out a hic-up. Works flawlessly but it's a simple boost activated system. A properly sized nozzlle, set at a low psi threshold there's not much to go wrong.Monitored with two little LEDs. Eliminated coolant temp spiking during periods of hard boost, knock reduced significantly and judging from my plugs, carbon is being controlled nicely. Stock heat range plugs, stock coils, no amplication and I've never had any break-up. Intuitively I suspect a little hp sacrificed, but I honestly can't tell from the seat.
On my VR4 i hydrolocked a motor and did some damage with water/meth injection when the controller kept the pump running off boost and pumped my engine full of water until it quit. Blew up two engines on my friends VR4 with it, been scared of the stuff ever since.
Jason
Jason
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
On my VR4 i hydrolocked a motor and did some damage with water/meth injection when the controller kept the pump running off boost and pumped my engine full of water until it quit. Blew up two engines on my friends VR4 with it, been scared of the stuff ever since.
Jason
Jason
AGAIN if it's not broken don't fix it.
I am however going through a diff about every 2 years so I probably do NEED that cover for the little bit of cooling the extra oil may provide LOL.
700-ish awhp on 93 sure was fun though
Friends VR4 is making high 500's on straight 93(was making mid 600's on water/meth) and never makes less than 550awhp from 3700 to 7400 rpms 
Funny thing is, my FD is still more fun to drive as a total experience.
Jason
Friends VR4 is making high 500's on straight 93(was making mid 600's on water/meth) and never makes less than 550awhp from 3700 to 7400 rpms Funny thing is, my FD is still more fun to drive as a total experience.
Jason
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
I can remember heavily modded full caged green VR4 that used to run at summit that was fast in one spot and I'm sure you can guess where but otherwise it was a moving chicane.
Hate to bump an old thread but it has good info and wanted to get your thoughts on my setup.
I just traded for a 93 FD that prob has 89k + miles, the tach and odometer works when it wants to some mileage is really unknown.
Current Mods
- Non sequential turbo setup
- rats nest delete
- smog delete
- 3 inch DP and exhaust
- act stage 3 clutch
It didnt have a boost gauge so i temporary put one in place to see what the boost was at and it was spiking to 15 psi.
My question is would it be safe to drive it as is and try and not let it get to 15 psi?
I plan on mounting my boost and wideband gauge soon and replacing my AST if needed.
Trying to figure out if i can build the car in stages or try and do everything at once.
First Option
- I'm thinking I need a standalone ecu 1st so that I can tune it. Then upgrade the fueling 4-6 months down the rd. Here I will be paying for two tuning sessions and when i upgrade to a FMIC or Vmount im going to need another tune.
Second Option
- Buy standalone, fuel and cooling upgrade
- what stinks about this setup is i dont have the funds to do everything at once and wont be as fun as doing it in stages and i have to hope that the current setup blows up on me in the meantime
Later down the rd I would do a single setup. End power goal is 350 whp so that i have something fun to drive on the street and have something to take to the track twice a yr if i decided to.
Thoughts?
I just traded for a 93 FD that prob has 89k + miles, the tach and odometer works when it wants to some mileage is really unknown.
Current Mods
- Non sequential turbo setup
- rats nest delete
- smog delete
- 3 inch DP and exhaust
- act stage 3 clutch
It didnt have a boost gauge so i temporary put one in place to see what the boost was at and it was spiking to 15 psi.
My question is would it be safe to drive it as is and try and not let it get to 15 psi?
I plan on mounting my boost and wideband gauge soon and replacing my AST if needed.
Trying to figure out if i can build the car in stages or try and do everything at once.
First Option
- I'm thinking I need a standalone ecu 1st so that I can tune it. Then upgrade the fueling 4-6 months down the rd. Here I will be paying for two tuning sessions and when i upgrade to a FMIC or Vmount im going to need another tune.
Second Option
- Buy standalone, fuel and cooling upgrade
- what stinks about this setup is i dont have the funds to do everything at once and wont be as fun as doing it in stages and i have to hope that the current setup blows up on me in the meantime
Later down the rd I would do a single setup. End power goal is 350 whp so that i have something fun to drive on the street and have something to take to the track twice a yr if i decided to.
Thoughts?
Port the WG, or add an OEM cat to the midpipe to bring down the boost, in addition to adding a fuel pump( with rewire) and add ecu.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
Hate to bump an old thread but it has good info and wanted to get your thoughts on my setup.
I just traded for a 93 FD that prob has 89k + miles, the tach and odometer works when it wants to some mileage is really unknown.
Current Mods
- Non sequential turbo setup
- rats nest delete
- smog delete
- 3 inch DP and exhaust
- act stage 3 clutch
It didnt have a boost gauge so i temporary put one in place to see what the boost was at and it was spiking to 15 psi.
My question is would it be safe to drive it as is and try and not let it get to 15 psi?
I plan on mounting my boost and wideband gauge soon and replacing my AST if needed.
Trying to figure out if i can build the car in stages or try and do everything at once.
First Option
- I'm thinking I need a standalone ecu 1st so that I can tune it. Then upgrade the fueling 4-6 months down the rd. Here I will be paying for two tuning sessions and when i upgrade to a FMIC or Vmount im going to need another tune.
Second Option
- Buy standalone, fuel and cooling upgrade
- what stinks about this setup is i dont have the funds to do everything at once and wont be as fun as doing it in stages and i have to hope that the current setup blows up on me in the meantime
Later down the rd I would do a single setup. End power goal is 350 whp so that i have something fun to drive on the street and have something to take to the track twice a yr if i decided to.
Thoughts?
I just traded for a 93 FD that prob has 89k + miles, the tach and odometer works when it wants to some mileage is really unknown.
Current Mods
- Non sequential turbo setup
- rats nest delete
- smog delete
- 3 inch DP and exhaust
- act stage 3 clutch
It didnt have a boost gauge so i temporary put one in place to see what the boost was at and it was spiking to 15 psi.
My question is would it be safe to drive it as is and try and not let it get to 15 psi?
I plan on mounting my boost and wideband gauge soon and replacing my AST if needed.
Trying to figure out if i can build the car in stages or try and do everything at once.
First Option
- I'm thinking I need a standalone ecu 1st so that I can tune it. Then upgrade the fueling 4-6 months down the rd. Here I will be paying for two tuning sessions and when i upgrade to a FMIC or Vmount im going to need another tune.
Second Option
- Buy standalone, fuel and cooling upgrade
- what stinks about this setup is i dont have the funds to do everything at once and wont be as fun as doing it in stages and i have to hope that the current setup blows up on me in the meantime
Later down the rd I would do a single setup. End power goal is 350 whp so that i have something fun to drive on the street and have something to take to the track twice a yr if i decided to.
Thoughts?
I'm not that familiar with the non sequential setup but I'm guessing it's just utilizing the gate on the turbos so you should be able to simply turn your boost controller all the way down and run on the turbo actuator spring tension (approx 7psi and creep to 12 or so).
Definitely get a second opinion on above but that's my best guess at controlling your boost as it sits.
If that doesn't work you can put a restrictor plate in the exhaust or install a HF cat etc..... but you do have to do something.
If you need more power go for it but IMO these cars are super fast bone stock and the best mod is driver improvement so I'd focus on suspension and reliability mods and add power as needed.
Hate to bump an old thread but it has good info and wanted to get your thoughts on my setup.
I just traded for a 93 FD that prob has 89k + miles, the tach and odometer works when it wants to some mileage is really unknown.
Current Mods
- Non sequential turbo setup
- rats nest delete
- smog delete
- 3 inch DP and exhaust
- act stage 3 clutch
It didnt have a boost gauge so i temporary put one in place to see what the boost was at and it was spiking to 15 psi.
My question is would it be safe to drive it as is and try and not let it get to 15 psi?
I plan on mounting my boost and wideband gauge soon and replacing my AST if needed.
Trying to figure out if i can build the car in stages or try and do everything at once.
First Option
- I'm thinking I need a standalone ecu 1st so that I can tune it. Then upgrade the fueling 4-6 months down the rd. Here I will be paying for two tuning sessions and when i upgrade to a FMIC or Vmount im going to need another tune.
Second Option
- Buy standalone, fuel and cooling upgrade
- what stinks about this setup is i dont have the funds to do everything at once and wont be as fun as doing it in stages and i have to hope that the current setup blows up on me in the meantime
Later down the rd I would do a single setup. End power goal is 350 whp so that i have something fun to drive on the street and have something to take to the track twice a yr if i decided to.
Thoughts?
I just traded for a 93 FD that prob has 89k + miles, the tach and odometer works when it wants to some mileage is really unknown.
Current Mods
- Non sequential turbo setup
- rats nest delete
- smog delete
- 3 inch DP and exhaust
- act stage 3 clutch
It didnt have a boost gauge so i temporary put one in place to see what the boost was at and it was spiking to 15 psi.
My question is would it be safe to drive it as is and try and not let it get to 15 psi?
I plan on mounting my boost and wideband gauge soon and replacing my AST if needed.
Trying to figure out if i can build the car in stages or try and do everything at once.
First Option
- I'm thinking I need a standalone ecu 1st so that I can tune it. Then upgrade the fueling 4-6 months down the rd. Here I will be paying for two tuning sessions and when i upgrade to a FMIC or Vmount im going to need another tune.
Second Option
- Buy standalone, fuel and cooling upgrade
- what stinks about this setup is i dont have the funds to do everything at once and wont be as fun as doing it in stages and i have to hope that the current setup blows up on me in the meantime
Later down the rd I would do a single setup. End power goal is 350 whp so that i have something fun to drive on the street and have something to take to the track twice a yr if i decided to.
Thoughts?
Just to go on a bit more from what fritz said , First I dont see that you mentioned what knd of boost control you are using , if you areusing the stock system , then you should try removing the restrictor pills like fritz mentioned in order to run off wastegate , until you buy a power FC that will make the car slower , But it will make it safe .
And its cheap !
Other options is getting a manual boost controller
Hate to bump an old thread but it has good info and wanted to get your thoughts on my setup.
I just traded for a 93 FD that prob has 89k + miles, the tach and odometer works when it wants to some mileage is really unknown.
Current Mods
- Non sequential turbo setup
- rats nest delete
- smog delete
- 3 inch DP and exhaust
- act stage 3 clutch
It didnt have a boost gauge so i temporary put one in place to see what the boost was at and it was spiking to 15 psi.
My question is would it be safe to drive it as is and try and not let it get to 15 psi?
I plan on mounting my boost and wideband gauge soon and replacing my AST if needed.
Trying to figure out if i can build the car in stages or try and do everything at once.
First Option
- I'm thinking I need a standalone ecu 1st so that I can tune it. Then upgrade the fueling 4-6 months down the rd. Here I will be paying for two tuning sessions and when i upgrade to a FMIC or Vmount im going to need another tune.
Second Option
- Buy standalone, fuel and cooling upgrade
- what stinks about this setup is i dont have the funds to do everything at once and wont be as fun as doing it in stages and i have to hope that the current setup blows up on me in the meantime
Later down the rd I would do a single setup. End power goal is 350 whp so that i have something fun to drive on the street and have something to take to the track twice a yr if i decided to.
Thoughts?
I just traded for a 93 FD that prob has 89k + miles, the tach and odometer works when it wants to some mileage is really unknown.
Current Mods
- Non sequential turbo setup
- rats nest delete
- smog delete
- 3 inch DP and exhaust
- act stage 3 clutch
It didnt have a boost gauge so i temporary put one in place to see what the boost was at and it was spiking to 15 psi.
My question is would it be safe to drive it as is and try and not let it get to 15 psi?
I plan on mounting my boost and wideband gauge soon and replacing my AST if needed.
Trying to figure out if i can build the car in stages or try and do everything at once.
First Option
- I'm thinking I need a standalone ecu 1st so that I can tune it. Then upgrade the fueling 4-6 months down the rd. Here I will be paying for two tuning sessions and when i upgrade to a FMIC or Vmount im going to need another tune.
Second Option
- Buy standalone, fuel and cooling upgrade
- what stinks about this setup is i dont have the funds to do everything at once and wont be as fun as doing it in stages and i have to hope that the current setup blows up on me in the meantime
Later down the rd I would do a single setup. End power goal is 350 whp so that i have something fun to drive on the street and have something to take to the track twice a yr if i decided to.
Thoughts?
Better to start your own thread than take this one off topic
My 94 touring has that ignition mod where when you shut the car off, it will idle for some time then shut itself off. (you can set it to different times).
I didn't see any mention of that in this reliability thread. Has time judged this mod have no value?
I always thought it was a PITA, but remember reading about 10 years ago or so people thought it could help the engine bay heating problem.
I didn't see any mention of that in this reliability thread. Has time judged this mod have no value?
I always thought it was a PITA, but remember reading about 10 years ago or so people thought it could help the engine bay heating problem.
