Under PSI

Soooooo....

I have a bit of damage to a rear fender from a parking lot bender. It's not more than cosmetic, but it's pretty bad.

I feel that at this point, I have three options.

1) Have body shop pound out / bondo to try and get an OEM look. I don't have a lot of faith in this as the damage IS pretty bad.

2) Find a junked RX-7, follow the body repair manual and cut / weld back in a clean fender. I'm not against this idea at all.

3) Have body shop pound out what they can then strap on a set of Chargespeed or Origin fenders. These are large enough to cover all the damaged spots and retain an OEM look. I also like the Ronin fenders, but I don't like the idea of relocating the fuel fill to the interior of the car.

Background on the car: it's a 1994, all 99 body updates, low original miles, runs great - but could use paint (it's been on the to-do list for a while). This seems like a natural opportunity for a repaint.

I'm looking for opinions BUT I'm also looking to see if people have *good* pictures of Chargespeed and/or Origin rear fenders installed and finished. I see lots of work-in-progress pics, but have only found one or two shots of "completed" installs. I don't have plans for any additional body mods, just the fenders with an otherwise stock 99 body.

Thoughts?

LuvingMy93FD

Ronin Fenders are really nice, but yeah the relocation of the fuel up would be a pain for some. I still vote for Ronin Fenders because it basically the best wide body fender you can get without changing the sexy lines of the FD.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

A good body shop will be able to restore your fender to look like new. That's what I would do.

04G35S

iTrader: (10)

Have the body shop repair your quarter panel, no need to slap on wide quarters to cover it up. Any good body shop should be able to fix it... But I guess I shouldn't say that without photos.

Under PSI

To me it looks baaaad - but I haven't had to deal with body damage on the past.

Ideally, I'd like to stay OEM. However, I just don't see a gallon of body filler as a better option then going widebody.

I do love the Ronin fenders - and maaaaaybe I could live with the fuel relocate - but I would like to see some Chargespeed and Origin fenders as those are also pretty close to stock.


Anyone have good pics?

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

That is not bad at all.

It is not creased on the tail light area, which is great. Basically, if its not creased over areas where the stock sheet metal makes a tight bend (in original form) it is fairly easy to pull out.

You just have the fender arch that was violated in this case and maybe the seam between fender and bumper?

You want to find a body shop that can pull that out close to spec and use very minimal filler (to hide slight waves/scratches- about 1/16" at max depth).

You don't want a shop that will drill holes in it, pull it kinda close and then put a Bondo tumor on your car.

Both shops exist with great reputations- beware.

IMO, this work has to be done whether you slap a wide fender on it or not as that is a structural area of the unibody.

Your contract/repair work should be dependent on you inspecting the work after they have pulled the metal out/ reshaped as best they can and before they apply any paint/filler.

Make this clear. If they call you and tell you "pick up the car its painted" do not pay- go to court with your contract.

If the fender doesn't look like a stock fender with minor blemishes before filler/paint, they are not your shop. Pay them for the work to that point as in the contract and make your round of other shops to see if they can/are willing to finish/fix the repairs the first shop started.

Best shops to look for are ones that specialize in "all metal" repair of classic cars- if you can find one. These are craftsmen that know how to bend, shape, stretch, shrink sheet metal into any shape imaginable. They are $$.

Under PSI

Thanks for the optimism. I first looked and it and thought repairing it wasn't going to be doable. Glad you think otherwise.

One more question for the group. Lemme preface by saying, I'm not a big fan of color changes. However, since I'm budgeting a full paint job with this - I'm *considering* another OEM white. Chaste White is just so, blah. Since I have the 99Upgrades, and Spirit-R Interior bits (steering wheel, shift ****, boot, Recaros, etc, etc) I was *considering* either Pure White (Spirit R) or Snow White Mica (RZ).

Think I can get away with it? I don't have plans to pull the engine to do the paint job - but I figured the white engine bay will still work.

Thoughts?

04G35S

iTrader: (10)

Let me start out by saying anything is repairable... but that does not mean it should me.

Looking at your damage you not only have damage to the outer quarter panel but the outer wheel house and possibly the inner wheel house and rear floor. That is a DEEP dent. I would make sure whoever repairs it puts it on a frame rack and pulls it out from the inside out.

I always try to repair any welded panels prior to replacement because you will not disturb the factory e-coat.But I would replace that quarter panel (Depending on what it looks like post pulls). If it is replaced you should bond it and not weld. If you weld there is no way to get 100% corrosion protection behind the panel and it will rust out in time.

Lastly, dont cut corners on a full repaint. The colors you are talking about are two drastically different shades and every time you open your door or hood you will see a massive difference. Save the money prior to doing the full repaint and do it right the first time. Pull ALL trim, bolted on panels, and windows. I cant stand when I see people do half *** paint jobs by leaving all the panels on the car with the trim.

Under PSI

Thanks for all the info guys. I really appreciate it.

Although I don't plan on pulling the engine - I don't foresee any areas where I would skimp on the bodywork / repaint. This is purely hobby so money isn't the issue - the concern is more over making sure everything gets put back in correctly.

In my head, all panels are pulled, whatever work that is needed is done and everything is put back together with new weather seals along with some other TLC.

I guess the question I'm faced with is: can I live with an engine bay that is a shade different than the rest of the car... and would that have a big impact on resale value. At the end of the day, I'll probably just stick with Chaste White - I guess I was just looking for opinions from the crowd.

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

I don't know body work so can't comment on the dent, but I do have an opinion on changing color! Under the hood always fades and looks different from the rest of the body on the stock paint FDs. Respraying engine bay wouldn't be a priority to me as long as it is at clean and not flaked off/missing and you keep the body some kind of white. But definitely don't cheap out on having door jams painted! You would see that every time you get in and out of the car and hate yourself for it.

hairball

iTrader: (8)

Ouch!!! That's one hell of a dent!!! It can be fixed like some other members said it will have to go on a frame rack have tabs welded and pulled for sure. Also the wheel house needs to be pulled too. You couldn't put a wide body over that huge dent expspecally around the wheel it wouldn't fit right and there'd be a huge gap. I do bodywork for a living the past 12 years I would charge a minimum of 18-15 hours at 58.00 an hour about 870 or so just for the dent from there it would need primer and paint but if your spraying the whole car the paint job would be a minimum of 2500-3000 at least at my shop. Just remember you do get what you pay for take it to a rep able shop 😃

Under PSI

I have no intention of doing a half *** repaint. All except engine bay would be painted.

Tom91R1 - Good point on the engine bay usually being a tad off anyhow. It's true. Maybe I'll get the whites side by side and make a decision.

hairball - I'm glad you threw out those numbers. That's on par with what I was expecting. All in I budgeted $5000 or so.

04G35S

iTrader: (10)

If your budgeting 5k for a repaint then your right on target. Its a small car so material costs will be lower then average, but you do have at lest 10-15 hours of repair time on that quarter on top of pull time to re align the wheel house.

If you plan on going tri coat pearl for the white paint job, having an engine bay that standard white or flat white will not be a big deal. Any vehicle you buy now that is tri coat will not have the tri coat sprayed in the engine bay, so it will look decent depending on what color pearl you are using. I would suggest to go with the original white for the base and then spray the pearl over that just to keep the under hood color consistent.

To throw some additional numbers at you, when I did a full color change on my Acura MDX I had just over 2k into materials alone! That varies quite a bit on the quality of paint you chose to go with, but the labor will soak up the addition 2-3k you have in your budget. Also I would suggest having everything sprayed in pieces so avoid paint masking lines in your jambs, it looks cheap! I sprayed everything apart with every last bolt removed from the inside and outside of the door.

Good luck!

ricardo.benin

iTrader: (6)

Like posted before that damage is not very bad. You can probably use large pdr glue tabs for the remainder of the body work. You will need a little body filler but that is no problem. If you have the work done by a shop make sure they use evercoat body filler products as they are the best do not use 3m as they can not even compare to evercoat rage gold body filler.
Thanks
Richard

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

As a sidenote, the entire rear quarter from tail light to b-pillar to door jam is still available from Mazda for both sides. Racer price is $400.

Not a bad deal if you decide to go that route.

Most the chassis strength is from the x shaped pieces inboard of the wheel well that the rear subframe attaches too.

There is a reinforcement piece that runs from the b-pillar to the tail lights above the wheel well (looks safe in your photos).

You basically caved in the hollow area the muffler resides in and probably put a crease in the back side of the wheel well arch- which does have a minor affect in strength, but anyone who has rolled the rear fender arches has likewise compromised the wheel well arch strength.

If you did go widebody you would have to cut up and reweld the wheel well arch anyways to gain wheel/tire travel.
The quality of that job would impact the wheel arch strength more than the quality of the repair to the current damage as it is more extensive along the wheel arch and would be done on both sides.

TurboII RudeBoy

i agree with everything Blue TII is saying , right on the money. the damage is not too bad just make sure the body shop is up to par with the quality of the job you want. the fd isnt a difficut bay to paint so you could get away with pulling the lines relays and wiring and spraying the bay the same white that your gonna paint the car.

Under PSI

Blue TII - That is great info... and right on par with the thought process I was having back on my initial post. It doesn't seem to make sense to me to pay 15 hours @ $60/hour to fix something I can replace. However, I never thought to try and order new from Mazda - $400 seems like a steal.

Do you have info on where I can order this? I remember registering for the Mazda Racer program 10+ years ago... but haven't revisited it yeeeeeears.


Thanks again for the input guys.

Under PSI

Good info on the engine bay 04G35S. I didn't realize a pearl exterior didn't have a pearl engine bay. I'm not sure if Snow White Pearl is a tri coat or not. But here are the two colors I'm debating (both OEM Mazda colors):

Snow White Pearl Mica - 17W
Pure White - A3D

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Do you have info on where I can order this?

You have to submit 2 race results a year to maintain the racer program. I think for solo events like I do they aren't supposed to sell you body or interior pieces, but they always have for me. Door, roof, fender, fender supports, trim, interior plastics, etc so far. I do need the parts to stay in my class.

You can order through a friendly Mazda dealer like Ray Malloy, but you will pay some mark-up. Still, its pretty cool the new factory pieces are still available.

MX3

iTrader: (4)

That can definately be fixed - If there is no frame damage - From the picture it does not look like there is frame damage.

I did some research for you - Have a look at this "1993 Vr R1 Full Part-out" Post Here on the RX7Club.

I'll quote from the Thread: "Fender R has a section on rubbed off paint would need paint but no dents $60

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...t-out-1069922/

The Seller Has His Phone Number Listed Aswell - So he can send you pictures - As mentioned in his post.

You've mentioned in your initial post that you'd like to stay OEM so - This May Work out for you.

I hope this Help.

Thanks.
Nadeem

04G35S

iTrader: (10)

Man seeing these white FD's makes me want to paint mine!

But most if not all white pearls are a tri coat which requires a mid coat of pearl between the base coat and clear coat. Obviously this is more expensive because of the additional material costs and pearl additive is not cheap!

Under PSI

I just dig some digging, and 04G35S - you're right - it looks like the RZ engine bay isn't pearl.

...I was all but ready to rule out that color - but now maybe I will reconsider. A Chaste White engine bay will probably be a pretty good stand in.

04G35S

iTrader: (10)

Yeah, even metallic color are the same. Most manufactures wont even use clear coat under the hood. I personally like a matching engine bay but I definitely dont think it would ruin the car as long as you paint the jambs to match.