another option, CSF are also very good radiators and they do make one for the FD

The CSF Radiator Challenge! CSF vs Masiv

 

I work on cars for a living, and can offer advice based on a lot of experience.

Don't get a CSF!

Have no idea about Mishimoto.

KOYO radiators are my preference in all Asian cars

 

Care to explain why and when your last experience with CSF was?

 

Changed a leaking one in a Camry maybe a month ago. After three in my Toyota truck I finally had to solder the last one together myself, it lasted a couple years after that. Our shop GMC pickup had one fail in less that a year. Over all I'd say most of the aftermarket replacement radiators I have to replace are CSF. I don't remember ever having to replace a KOYO replacement radiator. The original radiators usually last 10-15 years, if the replacement lasts long enough you should never have to replace it again.

 

Mishimoto, CSF, Godspeed = all the same crap

 

Thread bump

So i think i will go for a N-Flo rad from Koyo. Does anyone know if its pure aluminium?
I want to anodize it black, and to do that it must be pure aluminium. Any steel or copper will be destroyed in the anodizing process...

 

Koyo N-flow is all aluminum brazed radiator, but I don't know how well it will anodize.

Koyo uses NOCOLOK Al-Si brazing process that leaves clear flux residue on the finished piece.

It would be best to contact Koyo with your question or NOCOLOK or even one of the vendors who advertise anodized radiators to see what the process requirements are.

Koyorad Racing - About : Technology

http://www.solvay.com/en/binaries/NO...-de-179520.pdf

Anodized Aluminum Radiators - Custom and Stock - 12 Colors

-------------
Have you heard there is a really cool new coating being developed that transmits infrared radiation through the atmosphere using a non-interference wavelength so that it uses the low temperature of space as the heatsink?

Probably a couple years away from being able to get our heat exchangers hydrodipped or sprayed with this "photonic radiative cooling" coating.

Stanford engineers invent high-tech mirror to beam heat away from buildings into space

The ultrathin coating was carefully constructed to send this infrared light away from buildings at the precise frequency that allows it to pass through the atmosphere without warming the air

 

Koyo Performance Radiators - Select your application to see pricing - SakeBomb Garage LLC

BOOM

 

^Support your forum vendors guys, SBG has always provided me with outstanding service

I've always been a Fluidyne guy but am now running a Koyo and it's been rock solid.

 

Picking up an older thread:
My fluidyne decided to start leaking during the autocross this weekend.

Q1: The fluidyne + blitz SMIC + stock airbox did not seem to fit very well, particularly the intercooler. If I buy the N-flo, is there any chance the fitment will be even more challenging?

Q2: I whacked two cones at the end of my run and immediately noticed the coolant leak on the way back to grid. How might those be linked? So far it seems my fluidyne is leaking near the center of the front part of the core. My motor mounts are suspect - could that cause things to rack and leak?

Thanks,

David

 

Just found this in my subscriptions, and thought i could update it. I went with the regular Koyo radiator (not N-Flo) and its a perfect fit. The only close to being an issue is that the Intercooler duct bolt on the driver side touches the fan motor.

Only modifications i had to do was:
- Bend the bottom radiator cradles to fit the bigger rad
- Glue new foam to it to stop air escaping on the sides.


Foam:


Bolt on fan motor:

 

I also have a Koyo NFlow and it is also a nice Fit. Little modification as I'm running a big single, but still, fits and works flawlessly none the less.

 

Yup, I run the Koyo N-Flow in the stock location and it fit with very little effort. I also added new foam underneath and on the sides. One concern though is my temps seem too cool most of the time now as my PFC is set to turn the fans on around 87 but I never see temps over 80. In the winter I hardly see temps over 75.

Perhaps it is just the location of my water temp sensor and the temp is actually hotter. Idk. Great thing on track though because the water temps never get dangerous. It's my oil temps that rise to "must do a cool down lap" levels first despite running dual coolers from the factory.

 

I have had this exact configuration for more than 13 years. No fitment issues. No leaks. I have done many autocrosses, and run over a few cones too. The Fluidyne has never given me any problem.