Mr. Stock

There are four nuts holding the PPF to the rear end of the tranny. These need to be removed. Once the nuts are undone, the transmission and the PPF will "collapse" towards the middle. The PPF will then can be pushed down further to clear the "bolts". The propeller shaft will not really come out until you start removing the engine. I just stuck a 4x4 block of wood between the PPF and one of the braces whci cross the tunnel. This block of wood supported the propeller shaft as well.

Since I have never done anything like this before, the part where the propeller shaft comes out of the tranny was somewhat of a mystery to me until it just slid out from the rear end of the transmission. The shop manual just said to "remove the propeller shaft". The whole time I was thinking "But, How?"

I had drained the transmission prior but more oil came running out once the propeller shaft came out of the transmission. Better put some newspaper underneath to catch all that oil.

SPOautos

The "But How" part is exactly what we were doing...there are no bolt or anything!!! So your just saying you undid the 4 bolts that bolt the PPF to the trans and that was it. Then when the trans dips down the ppf seperated and the shaft just slid right out...you didnt have to do anything to the shaft!!!! I;m suprised that the ppf moved down to come away from the bolt with it still bolted in the back. Seems like it wouldn't move at all with the rear of it still bolted in.

Damn we had those 4 bolt removed hours ago.....

Thanks,
STEPHEN

Mr. Stock

Zachary! I mean exactly!

You do not have to completely remove the propeller shaft nor do you have to remove the PPF.

Do you need a pic?

jspecracer7

With a lift and a cherry picker, I think that Me and Dragon pulled his engine in about an hour. I have also helped IGY change his engine w/o the tranny. They both took about the same amount of time either way.

I think that taking the engine out with the tranny was easier though.

SPOautos

If you have a pic it wouldnt hurt. I'd like to see how far the trans has to get before the 2 seperate. I pulled on that PPF pretty hard last night and the damn thing wouldn't move even a mm!!! Wouldnt it have to move the rearend at the same angle since it and the ppf are bolted together in the back??? I'm prob just haveing a hard time picturing so maybe the pic will help.

BTW - did you notice that non of your pic on page 1 are showing up??? Is it just my computer??? I was wanting to look at a few last night and couldnt get them to show.

Thanks,
STEPHEN

Mr. Stock

Please excuse the poor quality of pic. There is not enough room underneath the car to get a good pic.



The pics are hosted on Lycos, so if the site is down, the pics won't show up. Sorry.

Damn! It's doing it again. If you don't see the above pic, go here
http://photos.netclubs.com/live/phot...and%20PPF1.jpg

SPOautos

Damn, the link isnt working either. You could email them to me if you connection can handle it. I can dl them at work with a T1 and print them out but if its going to take you hours to upload dont worry about it.

My email is SJWhite2000@aol.com

STEPHEN

DavidZ

I'm sure there's many ways to accomplish the same thing, but I think the easiest way is to:

1. Remove the driveshaft - There are 4 bolts holding the driveshaft to the rear diff. remove these and the rear end of the driveshaft will drop and slide out around the PPF and the pulling the driveshaft rearward will cause the drive spline to slide out of the tranny. The PPF can be in place to do this. (Oil will come out of the tranny unless you drained it in advance.)

2. Remove the PPF. There are 8 large bolts, 4 rear,4 front. Loosen these a little at a time and put a jackstand under the tranny to support it. The PPF will literally just drop straight down(its not as heavy as it looks, but be ready to support it!)

3. the rest is pretty straight forward.

You really should completely remove the PPF and the driveshaft, since you don't want to damage the spline end(tranny end) of the driveshaft by it falling or resting on the floor.

nrolfes1

i may be in the same boat as SPOauto here in having to pull the tranny. where is the best place to get the cherry picker/load leveler combo---that seems to be the best tool for the job--and how much are they?

SPOautos

You could get a cherry picker and load leveler at Advanced Auto if you have one near by. Together its $200

STEPHEN

nrolfes1

oh thats not as bad as i thought it would be...is there anything specific to look for when shopping for a cherry picker (hehe all dirty jokes aside)...

spyfish007

I always pull with tranny still bolted up. I can do it from start to finish in 1.5 hours. I use a cherry picker with no leveling device. Just make the chain real short and put some load on it then straighten out the kinks and then put the full load on it.

From top:
---------------------
Drain fluids 1st! (engine & tranny oil + coolant)
1) Remove air box, battery, and SMIC
2) Disconnect oil lines (store the e-clips somewhere safe!!!)
3) Disconnect the stock intake elbow, then the 3 fuel lines below, then about 4 electrical connectors below, and then the wiring harness from the block, and finally the coolant hose from the block (all this below the elbow)
4) Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses and AST
5) Pull the ECU harness through -- sometimes eaiser to loosen the ABS bolts (X3) to get harness through
6) Disconnect coolant hose located near turbos ( goes to hard line on passenger sidewall for heater core)
7) Disconnect vacuum line and ground strap from upper intake manifold
8) Remove PS and AC belt, remove PS pulley, remove 4X PS bolts
-- disconnect AC in a later step
9) Remove shifter

From bottom:
-------------------------------
1) Remove exhaust, main cat, undertrays, and misc braces
2) Disconnect 2 electrical connections from starter
3) Remove bolts from clutch slave (2x) plus the bolt holding the hard line to the block (1x) and pull the clutch slave out! (DON'T PUSH IN THE CLUTCH TILL THIS PIECE IS REINSTALLED!!)
4) Remove driveshaft (4x) bolts and drivesaft
5) Remove 4X bolts connecting PPF to tranny and let it hang down
6) Remove engine mount bolts (2X) (Don't lose these either ... odd ball threads 10mm X 1.25 makes them slightly more difficult to replace!)

Real easy with two or more people (great with 3!!)
One operates engine hoist, other guides engine from top and one from below. Push up on the tailshaft of the tranny at first then pull down as the engine starts coming down. If the car is not too high off the ground and you didn't give too much slack in the chain almost any hoist should have plenty of clearance to get the engine out. Warning: the person handling the tailshaft should either be prepared to get oil on them or block off the tailshaft where the driveshaft goes because that oil will come out! Also remember you pressure plate and clutch are still locked into the motor so you'll need to seperate the clutch wedge collar before you unbolt the tranny from the block. Overall this process is much easier than trying to drop them seperate. One thing I left out is the part about the AC compressor. Start lifting the engine out then as you get more clearance take out the 4 AC bolts. They are so much easier once the engine is off the motor mounts. You'll see what I mean when you do it. AC lines are really flexiable so don't worry too much about them.

puma

iTrader: (2)

what is easier, removing with or without the tranny?

suganuma

carson,

im going to start pulling my motor on saturday so please keep the phone around or just ON so i can get ahold of you if need be.

thanks,

SPOautos

Good post Carson....damn this thread has a ton of awsome info in it. Anyone can pull thier motor with the info on this thread.

STEPHEN

suganuma

stephen.....
i sure hope that ends up being true!!.....heh

spyfish007

Pulling with tranny is easier ..... I'll have my phone on Nic.

suganuma

pulled....by myself.....not too bad

need sleep - stripping down the block tomorrow

Mr. Stock

Worse than pulling the engine is taking the lock bolt off of the main pulley boss. I still haven't been able to do it.

Impossible!

puma

iTrader: (2)

ok, i might be a little late but let's revive this thread since it is so cool and full of info.

We just remove an engine. Man i am proud

We let the propeller shaft because the bolt to the differentiel were too much stuck. Will i have any problem trying to align the spline of the shaft with the transmission when i will put it back in?

Does an rebuilt engine come with main pulley? I don't think that sending the engine without the pulley would be good since there is a danger of the eccentric shaft moving from it's place (or something like that i beleive...) Can anyone clear that up?

Also, how hard is it to emove the flywheel?

thanks a lot for any help and please tell me if i can help anyone else.

keep this thread alive

puma

Nameless

It's pretty damn hard to remove the flywheel, but if you have the proper tools u can do it. Leave the main pulley on.
I pulled mine while leaving the tranny in...hopefully it makes for an easier reinstall.

DamonB

I have pulled the tranny before for a clutch replacement; it was tough getting it back in. Today I just finished putting the rebuilt motor in and it was very easy. I pulled the motor with the trans attached after dropping the driveshaft and ppf. Reinstalled with the tranny attached as well and had no trouble as long as you had the chains short as mentioned above; I never removed the hood. Motor pull/install in this car was far easier than I expected.

spyfish007

The main pulley is keyed so you can't screw it up.

jspecracer7

8 hours with a chisel and 5 lb hammer took it right off!!!

rexman13b

iTrader: (7)

I agree, leave the tranny on the engine when removing it just did it tonight and got finished in about an hours. Getting the flywheel is not that hard when you have the right tools. I use my friend impact wrench with a socket that fits the nut. That thing has 600 ft/lbs of torque in reverse! And for the front pulley bolt use impact wrench or if you don't have one use a socket wrench with a breaker bar on it and take another quite long bar and stick in the hole where the crank angle sensor goes and just start pushing the 2 bars away from each other. With the breaker bar on the socker wrench it gives a hell more leverage. It works, trust me have done it before.