turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

Hey guys, check out the last few pics on the page. The hard part is done. The car is going to be painted with the doors and hatch off so don't be alarmed...\

It might take about 30min for the link to be updated.

http://community.webshots.com/album/132281433kiUBKO

revsteve

iTrader: (6)

wow great thread jeff - I have never seen the step by step on frame work before!

Thanks for the documentation!

XSTransAm

god damn jeff, you are the man... Wish you had done the work on my car when is was hit (before i owned it) oh well, maybe one day ill go through it and clean up the mess.

93silverbullet

iTrader: (7)

Looks good! When do expect to get it back from the paint shop? BTW who's doing the paint?

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

Thanks guys. Just to be clear, I'm just the "boy" on these jobs. I remove all the stuff, the bodyguy fixes the metal and paint and I bolt everything back up.

I totally lucked out about 2yrs ago finding this bodyguy that does work on the side but at his place of employment. He is a true craftsman, hard to find type of quality attitude. He also is getting pretty good at fixing FDs (hard to find anyone that has even worked on one!) he's done 5 of them now.

93silverbullet:
Unfortunately the bodyguy's wife is having a baby today so he won't get to the rest of the car until, well later. The hard part is done, he estimates that 15hrs and the car will be ready for paint. I'm hoping it hits the paint booth next week.

Snook

iTrader: (12)

jeff, I had my interior totally apart on my previous 93 as well to have the body shop guy paint the panels but I had everthing labeled and in bags and replaced it within 2 days. How do you tear all that stuff apart and remember exactly how each screw and wiring harness goes? If I had waited about 2 weeks to put it back it would never happen Id have to part the car out haha

911GT2

Looks great as usual Jeff. It's quite a talent to be able to take a damaged car and repair it back to better than it was when it rolled out of the factory. Sometimes I wanna drive out to OR to have you take my car apart and put it back together again...

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

Well when you've worked on so many of them you just remember where the parts go. Also if you take it apart right some things stay in large assemblies. The dash for example, the glove box, heater controls, stereo, gauges, etc all stay on the dash, you remove it as an assembly. You can pull the steering column without taking the ignition switch, airbag or turn signal switches off.

You could give me a FD in boxes and I could put it back together.

InsaneGideon

Tell us how you really feel, TurboJeff!
Kidding...

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...36698042nvTIfI

Is that the grommet everyone's using for boost gauge wires, etc? (yeah, I STILL haven't installed my boost gauge)

I'm learning so much from these pics. I'm sure we all truely appreciate the trouble you go through to document this process.

DamonB

Keen observation and practice I am sure. turbojeff would be a perfect junkyard scrounger as he could spot parts from far away

Snook

iTrader: (12)

Ill have to post my interior shot on the old 7 when I took it apart to have the panels painted. pretty fu*King scary looking back at it now. it took the body shop so long to paint the panels and I almost forgot how everything went back. I got it perfect though and tighter than stock and was able to fix some broken stuff and clean out the dust. I think the car starts without the gauge cluster in at all which is retarded. I know you dont have to have the part plugged in that records miles to drive it which makes no sense....oops I shouldnt post this lol

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

Some people find it easier to punch a hole through the firewall rather than run a boost guage hose through that rubber grommet. It is a shame really. You'll add 2-3 ft of boost guage hose. The hose routes out of the engine compartment right under the CC unit and you'll need to pull the fender liner out to get to that grommet.

The funny thing about all the body work on this car, I pretty much could have slapped a fender on the thing and you would have never seen the damage.

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

The car will start and run without the ENTIRE dash in it. All you have to do is hold up the steering column and drive!

Post up your pic, congrats for sticking with it and doing a good job. Another point you bring up is cleaning. If you get a car that is really dirty it is a great idea to pull the center console, seats and door panels and clean it all up. I love before and after pics. I think it shows people that things can be done and done right. Plenty of people hack cars up, not many do nice jobs.

Snook

iTrader: (12)

sorry for the **** scan hope the forum notifies you i posted this since its an older thread

After:


it looked much much much better : )
I should have painted the doorpanels black but I didnt want to take a chance and plus the bins headliner and seats were still tan. Thats why i love 94s its got just enough tan and the right places are black.

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

Looks good!

Snook

iTrader: (12)

Thanks! Im glad the guy at the body shop did good work after all the time I spent sanding the panels and removing them

Here is my current and last FD! Ill have it forever
52k miles TOTALLY MINT interior and a lil somethin somethin under the hood! haha!!!! this is the first night I got it I put towels on the ground so I didnt mess up the floormats. Im going to keep this car cherry!

asherwood

turbojeff, absolutely excellant work on the '93! When I see work done to that detail it makes me wonder how many times the job is not done
so completely, because there is usually more then meets the eye.

I know you said that you could have just slapped a fender on it, but "hats of to you" for taking the extra time to do it right!

If you have the time to respond, I have a question about aligning a door that has been removed for repair and re-installed not quite right.

I have a 1991 and the skin on the drivers door has been replaced. The hinges seemed a little worn so after I got the car back from the body shop
I decided to replace both hinges. I managed to get it lined up at the rear of the door so it latches up nicely, but it is in a little in at the top (near roof)
and out a bit at the bottom (rocker panel).

I tried to loosen up the bolts on the door but maybe I didn't get the right sequence of events to make the adjustment.
Suggestions on how to do this right would be appreciated.

Thanks!