When I painted my engine bay I removed the MC and booster, ABS pump and all the hard lines for the braking system. After reinstalling all the above, I attempted to bleed the system and now I have little to no pedal and the ABS light is on. I have bled the system 3 times and I still have no brakes. Could the MC be bad? What would cause the ABS light to remain on? Any help would be greatly appreciated... and would also get my car back on the road after being down for over 2 years

 

I'm not 100% sure, but have heard you never want to let that stuff go bone dry. If you get air in certain parts, just bleeding wont get it out.

 

Any suggestioms on what can be done? Anyone?

 

When you bleed it is any air still comming out or is it all brake fluid?

 

I would make sure to bench bleed the MC, you can buy a kit at the autoparts store to do it in the car. Easy and cheap (~$10-15).

I would also try using a mityvac or similar vacuum pump to pull fluid through instead of just pumping the brakes like usual.

Apparently getting air out of the ABS system can be a HUGE pain in the ***.

 

All fluid.

 

Not pumping the brake pedal, I'm using my Motive Power Bleeder. Pump it up to 20 psi, open bleeder valves on the calipers and a stream of fluid comes out. Did that 3 times and still ABS light on and little to no pedal pressure.

 

Well I suppose something could be bad, OR air could still be trapped in the MC or ABS components. Sounds like a good time to go NON-ABS, lol..

 

There is no special procedure for bleeding the ABS. I've read however that getting air out of the ABS pump can be a challenge though. I'd consider tapping the ABS module gently with a hammer to stimulate any air bubbles, and bleed a lot of fluid out the front/right caliper since that's the shortest way out.

Are you bleeding through all four calipers? That's how I did it when I replace my MC last month.

Dave

 

Yes, starting from the RR, then LR, RF and finally LF.

 

I know things to try I will give you a call .I have pulled the abs unit apart and not had your trouble . First you need the bench bleed the MC . Then tighten all fittings and bleed the rear r first by pumping at least 25 times .then go to the left rear .and pump it 25 or so times .then r front and l front 25 times .then let it set for a time so the small air bubbles can group back together to larger bubbles .Now re bleed the rr by using one or two very slow pumps so the air will not crush into small bubbles ,wait a wile and do the lr with slow pump and so on. then after it sits a time so the air can regroup .Fill the mc with fluid and open all 4 bleaders with a plastic tube slid over the bleader with the open end up in the springs above the bleader ,the air goes up and the fluid stops air from going back in the caliber ,You know to put grease on the bleader threads to seal out the air when they are not seated tight . Pump the ped very slowly to the floor let it sit and repump slow not to crush the air to smaller bubbles .Tighten the bleaders and check for ped pressure . This will take some time but it works .

 

Start at the right rear. PUMP like crazy with the valve open until you see nothing but fluid then do the usual. Go to the left rear (repeat), right front repeat (repeat), etc....

Make sure you keep the res full during the process.

 

sooo have you did as fritz and garfinkle suggested?


Hows your boy at work?

 

Yes, I suspect the MC is bad.


Still talking much SH*T...

 

Don....get some SpeedBleeders *there are several different brands*....make sure you get quality SS ones....bench bleed the MC, check the rod length going into the MC vs what the book calls for, and bleed ALL 4 lines at the same time....

Don't forget to bleed the clutch slave too...it can let air in as well. It shouldn't affect the brakes directly, but is worth checking. Do you have a new, or SS line on the clutch slave?

SpeedBleeders are worth every penny my friend!

Here is one site:
http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Call me if you need help....I am off Sunday afternoon....
I will send you a PM with my number, or you can get it from Mike....

Later..
Greg

 

Hey Greg. I have/done all the above... I have a strong hankering the MC is bad. Pump the brakes and fluid gushes back up into the reservoir and not through the pipes. Ordered a new one from Malloy.

 

Have you connected all the hard pipes back into the correct positions? All ABS plug connectors are firmly secure? In my experience with pressure bleeding ABS systems you start from the closest brake caliper to the Master cylinder ( yes this is different to the norm, i learnt this working at an official Porsche center ) , usually with about 2 to 2.5 bar pressure (30 psi plus) and I usually use a diagnostic tester to activate the ABS pump (If available). I have removed and replaced plenty of ABS pumps in all makes and models over the years and never had any trouble. I highly doubt your master cylinder is at fault, more like a pressure problem at the ABS pump.

 

OK,
Well, at least you'll have a new one. It never hurts to have new parts in the braking system.

From the description you have given, it sounds like that should take care of the issue.

 

I have brakes now! Replaced the MC and used a mity-vac to pull the air out of the system. Everything seems fine except the ABS light is still on. Does anyone know how to troubleshoot the ABS system or know where to check in the FSM?

 

Good to hear that you replaced the MC. A spare MC which I had in storage and which sat dry for 7 years threw me for a 3 month troubleshooting loop until a got a re-manufactured unit. I did not drive my car for 7 years and had a crack in the reservoir cap so the brake fluid absorbed a lot of moisture and eventually corroded both my original MC and the ABS.

If you had the system disassembled for 2 years and did not wrap it air-tight in plastic and did not add desiccant to absorb the moisture, then I would guess both your MC and the ABS are shot. In my case I did not get the ABS light, but I could not pressurize the system and the line to my FL would not flow fluid no matter what I did at the MC.

The fix was to replace the ABS and the MC, then bench prime the ABS and the MC, then prime again on the car, then bleed the connecting lines between the MC and the ABS, then bleed at the wheels. When you start working on the ABS be sure to disconnect the battery and you may also want to check the connections to the ABS computer located in the left rear of the car. Did you re-install this computer? It looks like a rectangular tin can about 6 inches by 3 inches.

BTW the FSM is useless. The only way to test the ABS is with a factory tester. There are still a few Mazduh tuner shops that have that equipment, but I have no idea what they charge.

Whatever you do, make sure your work is clean and nothing gets inside the brake line but brake fluid. Also don't drive the car even for a short distance unless you are certain your brakes are working. Good luck!

 

Oh, one more thing. When you get the ABS light does it stay on or does it turn on for about 5 second and then goes away? The latter 5 second light is a normal check of the ABS system at start-up.

 

Nope, stays on till I shut the car off.

 

Hmm, about 6 months ago I saw a Mazda ABS tester go unsold on eBay. Of course, for $600 or whatever it was you can buy a few used ABS units.

Dave

 

If you have an R1 or base model even though it doesn't have a rear wiper, DO NOT remove the rear wiper fuse.

 

That fuse feeds the ABS control unit, doesn't it?!?!

Dave