While installing new plugs and wires, I decided to clean off my throttlebody. I removed the throttle position sensor to clean it better, but accidentally over-torqued it on reinstallation (didn't realize the torque specs were ridiculously low -something like 22in/lb). So after I bought a new TPS sensor ($200+) and reinstalled it, I'm now unable to adjust the sensor. The narrow range seems to stay at .002 and the full range at .030. The voltages don't change regardless if I move the the TPS up or down (with ignition in the "on" position).

When I start the car the idle shoots to 3,000 rpm and stays there (even if it's in first gear). The engine light now comes on and it's displaying: 4, 12, and 18. I know 12 and 18 deal with the TPS, but I don't know what 4 represents. I tried clearing the codes (disconnect ground, then brake), but they keep displaying when I start the car.

Anyone have an idea on what's wrong with the car? Since the space is so tight, I think I may have disconnected something while getting to the plugs. I'm on the verge of bringing the car to Satan (the dealership). Any help would be appreciated.

 

I think I may have a short circuit somewhere. How do I find out where it's at, and what do I do if I have one? Any help would be appreciated.

 

You didn't install it correctly. It needs to have some tension, when you open throttle it moves a little spring in the TPS.

 

When I move the TPS up and down, it does feel like there is tension...
Is the bottom butterfly suppose to open and close when I move the TPS? That's what is currently happening. If not, then I definitely installed it wrong.

 

When the butterfly opens that moves the plastic tabs in the tps. There is a spring inside the Tps, that is what gives you the slight tension. Another thing, are you measuring the tps reading with the connector hooked up?

 

Here's a better description of what Bad_Karma7 is trying to tell you (post #9):

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=tps

 

Thanks a million BlueRex!!! I'm having exactly the same problem you had. I also initially put it exactly in the middle and got the 4,000rpm idle. It's now set at zero, and idling at 3,000rpm. I'll go ahead and install it correctly tomorrow (or should I say...later today ). Now I know why people love this forum.

It just made sense the way I installed it, but looks like it was put in backwards.

Now about that Cel code 4...argh!!! Hopefully that'll go away when I get the TPS running right.

Thanks everyone.
John

 

Yes, I was getting the readings with the resistor connected to the TPS. I used a safety pin that I jammed in between the wire & rubber on the resistor to get a reading (hope I did it right). I used the writeup from Damian as a reference and the link he provided: http://www.fd3s.net/tps_adjustment.html

Thanks for your help. I now understand what you were talking about installing it wrong.

 

Thanks BlueRex! Efinifd3s...code 4 is Intake Air Thermo Sensor.

 

No prob guys. If my 10 seconds of typing can save someone 10 hours of troubleshooting then I'm glad to help.

 

Thanks Bad_Karma7. Any way you can point me in the right direction on getting meanings on all the codes? I was using http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html as a reference for the codes, but it looks like his list is incomplete as it didn't have code 4. I also don't have the codes on my electronic shop manual.

Before I do some research in the shop manual, any suggestions on how to test or find the Air Thermo Sensor? Do I need to remove the UIM to get to it? If it's broken I hope this isn't going to be another $200 maintenance item.

 

Try this site for your codes http://www.troublecodes.net/mazda/ Your air thermo sensor is on the underside of your UIM, I believe.

 

If it was working fine before my guess is that you forgot to plug it in. I'll upload a pic of the underside of the UIM so you know where it is.

 

Thank you for the picture. I didn't have any engine codes prior to me taking things apart. I did have engine stuttering while cruising in 5th and slow acceleration in lower gears...which is why I only wanted to change out the plugs/wires. However, while taking off the intercooler piping, I noticed a lot of oil in the piping. Therefore, I decided I might as well replace the PVC valves. Since one of them looked as if the hose was going somewhere under the UIM, I decided to remove all the UIM bolts so I can lift up the UIM enough to get to the hose fastener. I didn't really know what was all connected to the UIM, and didn't worry about it since I wasn't planning on completely removing the UIM (due to having to track all the hoses). My guess is that 1. the wires to the thermosensor either got disconnected at the connector (crossing my fingers) and all I need to do is reconnect it to the sensor, or 2. I completely ripped the wires from the resistor - if it has one (which I'm crossing my fingers I didn't do). I am confident, however, that the actual sensor is functioning correctly and will not need replacement...but I hope I don't jinx myself.

Again, I appreciate all your assistance. I was looking all over the place for what code 4 stood for. I was actually going to try to troubleshoot my crank angle sensor, due to other mazda cars having that code associated with the CAS sensor malfunction. You just saved me more valuable time avoiding all that unnecessary work and, with my luck, possibly damaging other things in the process (I'm new to rotaries).

 

Well???

what was the outcome?

 

TPS fix worked like a charm. However, after installing a NEW air intake thermosensor, I'm still getting an error code "4". I'm also now getting some serious bucking/hesitation while trying to maintain a constant speed between 2,500 - 3,000 rpm at about 1/8 throttle. Other than that ANNOYING bucking (driving me CRAZZZZZY), the car pulls hard at WOT. In case anyone is wondering I've got new plugs, wires, TPS sensor, and my EGR valve blocked.

In regards to the trouble codes, 4, 10, & 11 all refer to the air intake therm sensor. Does anyone know the difference between those codes??

 

thanks for updating