KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

After I've been driving for a while (20 minutes or more) and go to shut it down and let it idle for about 30 seconds, I go back within 15 minutes to drive it again, and it acts like it's flooded. It won't start unless I push the gas pedal to the floor. Any ideas or is this normal?

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

hard starting when warm can be an early symptom of coolant seals failing or low compression. It could be other things, of course, but those are the ones you really have to look out for.

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

I just had the seals checked and they were fine, but i'll see about the compression test, thanks

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

make sure your injectors aint leaking.... Because it can be the reason why the car is actually acting like it's flooded. Or actually it is leaking? Also compression test it like SLOASFK mentioned earlier

extreme_rotary

I'm with AzEKnightz; have a shop (or you) hook up a fuel pressure gauge to your return line and key up with engine off. after priming the fuel pump for two seconds, it will shut off. observe the fuel pressure, and it should hold pressure, not bleed down. 1-2 psi of bleed off is okay after about a half hour. this will tell you if you have an injector leaking...then it is up to you to determine which one (and for this i REALLY would not follow the instructions in the service manual...'cause it sounds very dangerous)

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

but if an injector was leaking wouldn't it have a problem starting cold too?

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

so I took it to a shop to get the compression test, and I told them what the problem is, and they said it didn't sound like a compression issue cuz the car starts fine when it's been sitting for a while. I also noticed yesterday while driving it that if it sits for less than five minutes and I go back to start it it starts almost like normal. But anything more than five minutes or less than an hour or so it will crank, but not turn over the first time or two that I turn the key. I also noticed that if I sit there with the car's electrical systems on for like a minute before I start it, it starts up as if it's only been sitting for a minute or two.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Sounds like a coolant seal issue, only time will tell on that though.

money

iTrader: (2)

u can just unplug the battery. and restart ur car. and see if it happen again.

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

yeah, might do that, I know I need a new battery by the end of the summer, so I might just go do it, but is there anyway of checking the coolant seal?

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

ok, I got it compression and fuel pressure tested, here's the results
Front rotor compression: 100 psi
Rear rotor compression: 105 psi
Fuel pressure: within spec but drops 5 psi after 15 minutes and then holds steady

any ideas?

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

is it 100 and 105PSI on all faces? Are you sure they did the test right? Who did the test? If they didn't have a rotary tester or didn't hold the schrader valve open, the compression tester will only show the highest number of all 3 faces.

If they did it right, they should have provided you with 6 numbers.

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

yeah, he only gave me the two numbers, ****, i'll call them tomorrow, it's a place here in town that's called economy and performance auto service, so I'm assuming they didn't do it right, ****, now I want my money back!

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

ok, really late on the update on this. got the compression numbers, 100 psi all faces front, 105 psi all faces back.
thought I had a coolant leak as it smelled like I had coolant burning when i ran it hard, but when i topped off the coolant level and was checking it constantly, like once a day before driving it, the coolant never dropped.
so i think it's a injector getting stuck open, does this sound right? cuz it's still having really hard warm starts.

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

i started checking the coolant levels about a month ago

mattgottheFD

iTrader: (6)

i had the same problem as you and my buddy gave me a tip about hot starts. before i would turn off the car hold the gas at 1500 to 2000 rpm for a couple seconds and as i turned the car off push the gas pedal all the way in while shutting down. i never had an issue with hot starts ever again.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Have you checked/tested the Pressure Regulator Control solenoid?

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

This is just to prevent flooding no?

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

that's what I thought, but if it's flooding cuz the injectors are getting stuck open, then maybe this will work.

No, I haven't I'll see what I can do when I get her back from the shop, getting a new clutch, flywheel and pressure plate installed!

djseven

iTrader: (56)

If it isnt puffing a huge ploom of black smoke on starut than it likely isnt the injector sticking, sounds more like a compression issue to me. I have seen injectors get stuck and then begin working normal again but it never had anything to do with engine temps or how long the engine ran. The few I have seen get stuck usually start working again if the car is taken up to about 4-5k rpms.

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

really late update, got a new FPR and solenoid put in, still didn't solve the issue, and compression fine last I checked, but I could always get it checked again. Coolant levels have been fine, haven't had to add a drop in a few months, any other ideas? I can take a video of it too. I've contemplated sea-foaming it and seeing if that helps any.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

TPS?

voltages going out of whack once the TPS is heat soaked?

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

TPS?
sorry, still learning

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

TPS = Throttle Position Sensor. It's on the firewall side of your Throttle Body.

RIX-7

iTrader: (2)

Have .you put new plugs in,could be that simple,worth a try