iamchazzi

Oh, my misunderstanding. I'm in the US where FDs are somewhat rare. Nevertheless, have fun with your build! I'm looking forward to seeing more updates!

Valkyrie

I'll try. Starting to regret this decision since it's going to cost a fortune to get this thing drivable... sigh... hehe. Seems like this is going to need more work than I expected.

Need to fabricate a new positive battery capable since the battery is in the back and there's no positive cable.

iamchazzi

Built AND bought!

silverTRD

iTrader: (36)

just run the cable from the battery to the starter. easiest solution.

Valkyrie

I don't mind doing some work myself but there's no way in hell I'm going to spend $20,000 on engine tuning.... hehe

The nice thing about FD's is that used parts are a dime a dozen here. A friend gave me a transmission and I bought a PPF online shipped for $30. I'll be able to get a used diff with a Mazdaspeed two-way LSD for $350.

Valkyrie

But doesn't it need to go to the fuse box too?

So apparently I need about 16 feet of 2 gauge wire and some 2 gauge ring terminals?

Turns it it has a few more aftermarket goodies like pillow ball tie rods (dat bump steer) and rear toe links. Hope I don't need to buy new rod ends for any of them. Need to un-seize the rear calipers and probably rebuild them. Wish I had a bead blaster.

silverTRD

iTrader: (36)

The fuse box runs to the starter originally so if you run your wire directly to the starter the fuse box will be powered as well.

If parts are easy to get you might save yourself some trouble an buy new calipers. I freed a set of calipers once and it was a waste of time. The Pistons were rusted badly and not reusable.

iamchazzi

Again, not much of a tech person but it sounds fairly reasonable. I think having an FD in good condition will be well worth the money you put into it

04G35S

iTrader: (10)

I am not trying to be a dick but it seems like you are very new to FDs. I would do some research on what some of the recommendations IR gave you.

Before you even think about starting it I would make sure you spray some kind or penetrating oil in the cylinders and turn it by hand for a while just to make sure things are lubed up. You will want to also change ALL of the fluids inc power steering, oil, fuel, and antifreeze.

I think you stole that car for 2200 for how complete it is and all of the parts on it, you would more than get your money back out of it if you find its over your head.

Good luck, I cant wait to see where this goes.

Valkyrie

Turns out it's a 97 (although it might have been made in 96, since it was registered in early 1997). It's a "4th gen," aka a "chuuki". It has a zenki bumper (no bumper support and cut up for airflow) and "99" tail lights which were apparently standard after 96?

I was planning to lube the combustion chamber before trying to start it.

I'll take a look and see if the stock tires that originally went to the starter are still here.

I am actually fairly knowledgeable if only because I wanted to buy one years ago and did a lot of research.

I could have bought a running car in good condition for $5000, FWIW. But to be honest I didn't want something with a full interior because then I'd feel bad about stripping it.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

Mazda made a bunch of changes for 1996, among them were the tail lights. the ecu, turbo Y pipe, intake snork, and suspension also were improved. it also got a different rear wing. they added the RZ model at the top with the black recaros and BBS wheels. there is also a bathurst edition, its got different upholstery, but other than that i didn't look

for 99, they changed the ecu and intake again

Valkyrie

Right. I think this is a Type R, the base model. At some point dual oil coolers became standard equipment, which is convenient.

I'm wondering if I can get away with pounding the catalyzer hump in the tranny tunnel for seat (and body) clearance since the downpipe for this turbo kit seems to have much more clearance with the body (as the turbo is much further forward than the stock twins).

I cleaned the rear calipers and one of them was in perfect functioning condition but the other's operating lever was super stiff until I worked the piston back and forth a few times. The car now has a functional parking brake. Huzzah.

Waiting on my new used front calipers and rotors to show up so. Also need a new front camber bolt since it was... just not there. No wonder it didn't like being rolled... There was one in the car, but it was bent. I wonder how that happened.

The front suspension is pretty easy to work on until you try to hook up the stabilizer bar. Then it's a bitch. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong, or in the wrong order. I find it interesting how all the suspension contact points between the arms and the toe links, shocks, and sway bar links all have pressed-in fittings that sometimes have to be adjusted so the parts will fit together.

Gonna need to get a muffler as soon as I want to start the engine... I wonder if a stock catback will even fit? It's got a pretty big mid-pipe (resonated but no cat).

Valkyrie

So I went over the AST and radiator filler head, and it seems the reason that the AST is separate from the filler head (which also seems to be an AST) is that the cap is not a radiator cap, it's just an airtight lid attached with regular threads.

I wonder if there's any way to simplify this system and get rid of any excess hoses carrying coolant?

Valkyrie

Finally getting the transmission and differential (both free) installed. Hope this doesn't cost too much. Hehe.

Spalato

iTrader: (33)

Damn Japan and their $2200 FD's!!! I'll just move there and hoard a bunch of FD's...and be happy

Good luck with the build!

Valkyrie

Thanks.

I also found out that the Power FC and EVC are tuned for 0.8 bar, which seems pretty tame.

I think it has underdriven pulleys. Possibly only on the alternator, though.

That wastegate screamer pipe might be a problem if I want to make it street legal...