I am looking for places to purchase the recirculation line for the steering rack when removing the powersteering pump.

Thanks

 

http://www.gothamracing.com/catalog/...roducts_id=982

 

Don't bother with that.

Call these people and either get your rack converted the RIGHT way, or buy one that already has been. I can't say enough about how great it is.... safer too.

http://www.mavalgear.com/

 

While I agree that MAvel is the "better" way to do it,..I would like you to explain in detail how it is "safer" than a looped system.

As for the kit, if you don't feel like trying to figure out what the sizes are of the fittings, than go with Gotham's, Although if you spend the time to figure it out it will cost about 30 dollars less

 

its free if you just cut the long hose that connects to the the pump, and cut the line that goes to the cooler, however, once you do it, you can't put it back on.... thats what the CWC guy told me to do, he told me to just save my money....

 

by the way, how much does mavel charge? that would be the best way of course....

 

I believe the Mavel modification costs about $250 (price went up I heard). SHipping will cost a pretty penny.

 

I have the Maval rack on my car with stock wheels and tires and, while better than the looped system, it still takes some effort to steer at slow speeds. With more rubber on the pavement, I'm sure it would be even worse. It feels good cruising but I wouldn't try to autocross with it. I'm probably going to replace mine with an FC manual rack.

 

After a week with the line looped, you will forget what the power steering felt like. It's not that bad

 

The power rack was never intended to be used as a manual, and there's a very thin input shaft that will flex and be a potential failure point.... it's been refered to as a "reed". Some folks have had theirs welded to use with the loop, but by the time you do that, i'd just get a welded, greased, properly done rack.

Yes, it takes more effort, but not as much as a looped rack, and it also isn't as touchy and overboosted at speed as the power rack. I don't even notice any more.... and its a non-issue on the track, even in the tight corners at VIR w/ 275 R-compound front tires.

 

Has anyone broken their original "looped" rack at the "reed" or anywhere else ?

Tom

 

Hehe, you think about getting rid of it? I would be interested in it if it is in good condition and fully functional.

 

I just paid $165 for my conversion, which is what Dave Batke quoted me a couple years ago when I originally contacted Maval and what everyone else has paid, as far as I know. Add $60 if you can't/don't provide your own core rack.

Why? The FC rack has a much less ideal ratio (20.3:1 vs 15:1 for the FD).

I heard the same from the big list "hypochondriacs" too, but if you ever see the quill shaft in person, you'll know how ridiculous that is. Welding the quill shaft solid just eliminates the extra movement (4-5°) allowed by the joint for more immediate response, nothing more.

 

If I could get it for $165 I would be interested in getting one.

So is it really that bad to do AutoX with a manual rack? I am doing the LS1 and eliminating the power steering and was thinking about doing some AutoCrossing.

Anyone that AutoX that has the Manual rack has any problems?

 

They are now $270 and your core. They won't ship one out until they receive your core.

 

Ok, nevermind guess I am not getting one. That is just not morally right to charge that much more. Price should go down not up. Unless they made the manual rack out of titanium : ) or did more innovation to the rack.

I am sure when they set the price at $165 they already account for their profit margin. But charging $105 more in addition without making the rack better than it was before is just not right. But hey maybe, the manual rack is at least $105 better than it was before.

Business is business, if they are the only company to do what they do with quality, I guess just charge people more, because some people will pay for it. :sigh: sucks that it was a $105 instead of a few dollars. Dang inflation of money huh? I guess I am just cheap!!!

 

Agreed on all counts. I've never HEARD of it braking, but the mere idea was enough for me since the car see's track time... and all the other "little" details such as removing the few degrees of play, the easier movement of a greased rack, and not using the FC ration all added up to the right choice for me.

I think i payed $200 and change to buy an already converted one outright. The guy told me I could send my old one in for a core refund, but never did.

It wasn't $270 though.

 

I run the FC rack in a FD.

Took a bit to get her to work and made some pieces but it's a great after it's done.

It cost about 20 bucks worth of parts (the most expensive was the tap for 12x1.25 -that was a killer to find). You come out about the same b/c you have to align the car and buy a manual rack for about 80 bucks.

Total cost prolly was around 150 with new steering boots.

I'm also using same manual rack on my TII with 245's up front and that's about all you will want to go for street driving with a smaller steering wheel.

 

I have had my p/s deleted for about 3 yrs.

Initially I had the 'poor man's' with hacked off stock parts and a looped line, and the steering effort was *very* difficult. the stock fittings come out of the rack at an angle and the line loop is in a D shape.

Once I went to the Gotham one (that I personally sourced the parts for, and I can tell you at $30 there is not much of a profit margin) the steering was much easier. The fittings in the gotham kit come straight out of the rack the loop is in a U shape, which I would think gives much less resistance. I will say again that the effort is/was much much easier with the gotham kit, I had the damn kit sitting on my shelf for over a year and was kicking myself for not installing it sooner.

I havent experienced any failure whatsoever after over 3 years and around 20k miles.

 

Has anyone experience a looped system full of fluid and drained like some poeple recomend. Just wondering if anyone has tried both since people recomend diffrent things. Thanks in advance, Mike

 

Where is everyone seeing prices for MARVEL? Or are you guys e-mailing?

 

I negotiated the price with Maval a long time ago and have posted it several times.

 

When I bought my Maval rack, I mentioned Jimlab's price from a post I read and was told that $165 was an old price they honored later when he bought. I'm sure that core racks are harder to find and their costs for parts and labor have gone up so they have to charge more. Their rack is really cleaned up and put together well. I've been driving with it for awhile and it's not unbearable even pulling in and out of the garage but I think if you were in a situation where you really had to saw the wheel back and forth quickly, it would be a bitch.

 

Looped line here. Took it out for the weight mostly. AutoX? are you kidding me i would not think of autox'n it would be impossible! Good advice goodfella i'll have to purchase the loop. Are you supposed to leave the lines full of fluid?

 

Just curious, how much horse power is recovered and weight lost with this conversion?