Post pics and descripts of your IC here!
12-10-02, 10:46 PM
#26
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Difference between 2-row vs 3-row Greddy FMICs
Which intake can you use? I'd like to use the Apexi for $250 from the Rx7 Store? I don't want to use the Greddy Airinx?
Is the A/C retained?
Does the battery need relcation or miniaturization?
I plan to road race once per month from March to November. In Indiana the ambient temps get up to 98 F with high humidity.
TIA for the reply.
Is the A/C retained?
Does the battery need relcation or miniaturization?
I plan to road race once per month from March to November. In Indiana the ambient temps get up to 98 F with high humidity.
TIA for the reply.
Originally posted by DeNguyen
greedy 2-row FMIC. Before i had stock, so i really have nothing aftermarket to compare it to. Overall, I love that IC. grabs all the attention and makes plenty of street power.
greedy 2-row FMIC. Before i had stock, so i really have nothing aftermarket to compare it to. Overall, I love that IC. grabs all the attention and makes plenty of street power.
12-13-02, 09:20 PM
#29
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Greddy 3-row FMIC
Dude that is gorgeous. Do you have pics of the car with the Greddy three mounted?
Originally posted by RecKleSs
The GReddy elbow is not included in the ic kit.
These pics sucks, however, at least I put them up for you.
The GReddy elbow is not included in the ic kit.
These pics sucks, however, at least I put them up for you.
12-14-02, 10:37 AM
#31
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Apparently the 3-row has 3 separate charge rows, while the 2-row has only two. The extra charge row for the 3-row allows more efficiency in cooling for boost applications >1 bar or 15 psi. The 2-row is efficient in cooling compressed air up to 1 bar (14.8 psi?). The Greddy 3-row is also thicker (perhaps an inch?).
From what I've read, the 3-row is the optimal choice for high boost production single turbo applications, while the 2-row appears to be adequate for twin turbo boost applications.
I plan to run Japan Spec '99 Type RS/RZ twin turbos running at 11 psi. The 2-row should more than sufficient in cooling 11 psi of compressed air to ambient temp, from the J-specs, but I'm suffering from FMIC envy, and don't want to say to myself--I should have gotten the 3-row AFTER all the work it will take to mount the Greddy FMIC
From what I've read, the 3-row is the optimal choice for high boost production single turbo applications, while the 2-row appears to be adequate for twin turbo boost applications.
I plan to run Japan Spec '99 Type RS/RZ twin turbos running at 11 psi. The 2-row should more than sufficient in cooling 11 psi of compressed air to ambient temp, from the J-specs, but I'm suffering from FMIC envy, and don't want to say to myself--I should have gotten the 3-row AFTER all the work it will take to mount the Greddy FMIC
12-14-02, 11:39 AM
#32
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SleepR1,
As the "roadracer" I know you to be, why are you even considering a front mount IC?
Don't you think engine cooling and air flow is taxed enough on an FD to add a heat generating air flow restrictive device in front of the radiator?
Just food for thought... and it's not like this hasn't been beaten to death before.
David
As the "roadracer" I know you to be, why are you even considering a front mount IC?
Don't you think engine cooling and air flow is taxed enough on an FD to add a heat generating air flow restrictive device in front of the radiator?
Just food for thought... and it's not like this hasn't been beaten to death before.
David
12-14-02, 02:31 PM
#33
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I think this heat thing is being overstated. I have to keep my perspective. I live in the midwest 95 to 100 F ambient days just aren't reality.
I believe the FMIC is the most effective mount for hp generation. With enough prudent modification and duct work, around the rad, use of large electric fans, I think I'll be fine. I have an R1 and dual oil coolers, and use Mobil One 15W50 Comp oil, which really helps in the cooling departement.
Put it this way. I blew an upper radiator hose at Mid Ohio in '99. The car had 60,000 miles on the motor at the time. I was an idiot and didn't know the motor was running in the H zone, and drove an entire lap before pitting in.
I replaced the rad hose with Auto Zone Flex Hose and finished the weekend with no ill effects.
FF to 2002 where the motor now has 102,280 miles. I finally replaced that Auto Zone Flex hose with Thermal Flex silicone hose. I've had coolant leaking problems with the hoses. They need to be double clamped at each end (apparently). BTW, use Werth hose clamps. They're the sh*t I had the motor leak-down tested to see if the o-rings are fried...
Nope. No coolant leaked out of the plugs.
I've tracked the car for nearly 8,000 total miles over 65 days with a stock radiator, stock IC, stock airbox, stock ECU. The only mods are dp/hi-flo cat/catback/manual boost control to 10.5 psi.
I have no clue what my motor temps are because I don't have a real water temp gauge.
I can tell you that the only time I've overheated was in the example above where the upper rad hose popped (it was cut by the underdrive pulley bolt as the hose slowly failed and expanded enough to be cut by the pulley bolt). The ambient that day was 88 F.
Seriously, I'll be fine.
Setup for "Sleep R-1 Beast" for 2003:
The heart of the beast--KD Rotary Ported Motor (intake/exhaust, oil/coolant passages, eccentric shaft plug, heavy duty seals, silicone o-ring seals) built from a NEW Malloy Mazda Reman motor.
-Japan spec '99 Type RS/RZ twin turbos running 10.8 psi
-Koyo rad, 80% water/20% antifreeze, water wetter
-Greddy 2-row (or 3-row) FMIC
-Apexi intake
-Apexi Power FC set with ignition retard, and 11-to-1 air-to-fuel ratio, and boost set to 11 psi
-Larger rad fans manually switcheable from inside the cockpit
-Ducting to direct air through the rad
I believe the FMIC is the most effective mount for hp generation. With enough prudent modification and duct work, around the rad, use of large electric fans, I think I'll be fine. I have an R1 and dual oil coolers, and use Mobil One 15W50 Comp oil, which really helps in the cooling departement.
Put it this way. I blew an upper radiator hose at Mid Ohio in '99. The car had 60,000 miles on the motor at the time. I was an idiot and didn't know the motor was running in the H zone, and drove an entire lap before pitting in.
I replaced the rad hose with Auto Zone Flex Hose and finished the weekend with no ill effects.
FF to 2002 where the motor now has 102,280 miles. I finally replaced that Auto Zone Flex hose with Thermal Flex silicone hose. I've had coolant leaking problems with the hoses. They need to be double clamped at each end (apparently). BTW, use Werth hose clamps. They're the sh*t
I had the motor leak-down tested to see if the o-rings are fried...Nope. No coolant leaked out of the plugs.
I've tracked the car for nearly 8,000 total miles over 65 days with a stock radiator, stock IC, stock airbox, stock ECU. The only mods are dp/hi-flo cat/catback/manual boost control to 10.5 psi.
I have no clue what my motor temps are because I don't have a real water temp gauge.
I can tell you that the only time I've overheated was in the example above where the upper rad hose popped (it was cut by the underdrive pulley bolt as the hose slowly failed and expanded enough to be cut by the pulley bolt). The ambient that day was 88 F.
Seriously, I'll be fine.
Setup for "Sleep R-1 Beast" for 2003:
The heart of the beast--KD Rotary Ported Motor (intake/exhaust, oil/coolant passages, eccentric shaft plug, heavy duty seals, silicone o-ring seals) built from a NEW Malloy Mazda Reman motor.
-Japan spec '99 Type RS/RZ twin turbos running 10.8 psi
-Koyo rad, 80% water/20% antifreeze, water wetter
-Greddy 2-row (or 3-row) FMIC
-Apexi intake
-Apexi Power FC set with ignition retard, and 11-to-1 air-to-fuel ratio, and boost set to 11 psi
-Larger rad fans manually switcheable from inside the cockpit
-Ducting to direct air through the rad
12-16-02, 07:44 PM
#37
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I've been in contact with Chuck Huang of Rotary Extreme www.rotaryextreme.com
He's waiting for the HMIC duct to be fabbed.
Chuck's very busy filling body kit orders, and has placed the HMIC project on the backburner so to speak.
I've abandoned the HMIC, myself, and am going with FMIC Greddy 2-row from Jason (Rx7 Store).
He's waiting for the HMIC duct to be fabbed.
Chuck's very busy filling body kit orders, and has placed the HMIC project on the backburner so to speak.
I've abandoned the HMIC, myself, and am going with FMIC Greddy 2-row from Jason (Rx7 Store).
12-17-02, 03:03 AM
#38
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well anyone ever think of the TKT V mount intercooler rad set up?.. seems more efficent ...... yes yes yes i know what your all thinkin.. but.. remember hot day.. in traffic.. everything heat soaks ! its while your moving that counts.. cool inter cooler and rad?!.. at the same time.. nooo .. its ccant be it has to be a hoax! ( sarcasism)
12-17-02, 08:56 AM
#40
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SleepR1,
I'm curious about you upgrading your rad fans. It was origionally to my understanding that the FD fans were some of the highest flowing fans you can get. Are you having some made? Or, have you found some aftermarket applications? Thanks in advance.
I'm curious about you upgrading your rad fans. It was origionally to my understanding that the FD fans were some of the highest flowing fans you can get. Are you having some made? Or, have you found some aftermarket applications? Thanks in advance.
12-17-02, 01:27 PM
#41
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Originally posted by jdhuegel1
SleepR1,
I'm curious about you upgrading your rad fans. It was origionally to my understanding that the FD fans were some of the highest flowing fans you can get. Are you having some made? Or, have you found some aftermarket applications? Thanks in advance.
SleepR1,
I'm curious about you upgrading your rad fans. It was origionally to my understanding that the FD fans were some of the highest flowing fans you can get. Are you having some made? Or, have you found some aftermarket applications? Thanks in advance.
i will try to get my camera working w/ this computer so i can get others. 
Do you think that IC is big enough! 
12-17-02, 05:51 PM
#48
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Originally posted by SleepR1
and you call yourself a "moderator" 
and you call yourself a "moderator"
yeah, the greddy does look good. i will have to get some more recent shots of everything all together. btw, that is the 3-row
12-24-02, 06:17 PM
#49
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is the rx7 fashion (or turbostreetfighter's fmic) as thick as the 3 row? can i run those other ic's at 15 and 22 lbs ( with a gt35/40) effecientlt? i like those ic's better because of less bends.
any opinions on those ic's?
luigi
any opinions on those ic's?
luigi
