Can FD brake pedal height be adjusted ? Mine goes too deep when braking at full power to be able to also blip the throttle (I use sidestepping technique). Now I either need to lower the gas pedal or raise the brake pedal. Wider gas pedal probably won't help much either and it will also make the pedal even higher (with the bolt-on pedal). I'm seriously hindered at the track as I can't brake and downshift when turning into corner without upsetting the rear.

Is there a way to do it ?

Anyone done anything about it ?

 

Brake pedal height adjustment? I've never heard of that....

Are you seated properly in the seat? Maybe it is your particular seated driving position? Maybe your chair is too close or too far from YOUR ideal position. Just something that I thought I would suggest.

BTW, is the current brake fluid still good? Or is it old and black?

 

I will change the brake fluid, and am also getting a Momo Millenium 320mm steering wheel. But the brake pedal still goes too deep when at full braking power on the track and it prevents me from bliping the throttle. It surely makes for some interesting moments

But I don't like those moments under braking if you know what I mean so I need to find a solution.

 

The pedal engagement should be up at the top of the brake pedal's stroke. Sounds moreso like you have air in the brake hydraulics - time for a good bleeding and flushing of the brake system.

Dale

 

The height of the brake pedal can be adjusted, look it up in the service manual.

A couple of comments:

1) The other guys are right, time to change your fluid most likely.

2) David Breslau's widefoot pedal adapters snap to the SIDE of the gas pedal and not on the top, so that may fix your problem.

3) If all else fails, you can replace your master cylinder with the one from the Mazda 929. The 929s slighter larger cylinder should result in a shorter, firmer brake stroke.

 

Also, what type of brake fluid are you running at the track? If you just change it to some nomal over the counter stuff, you'll still end up with the same problem. Make sure to run brake fluid with a higher wet boiling point for the track.

 

If you still have stock brake lines, you could change them out to braided stainless lines. That will eliminate the extra pedal travel you might have from line expansion. It'll make a huge difference if your lines are old.

 

I only have the car for 1.5k miles for now and I don't know what the brake fluid is. I better change it. On the track my brakes started fading after some 5laps.

What brake fluid do you suggest ? DOT 5.1 ? Which brand ?

And I'll adjust the brake pedal height, thanks!

 

Ahh... just found how to adjust the brake pedal height in the manual. Its in section P9.

 

Probably what is in there is some standard DOT 3 fluid which is ok for the street, but not the track. Here is a chart about various fluids:

http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars/brakefluid.htm

Most people use either Super Blue or Motul 600.

Keep in mind there are two types of brake fade. If your pedel gets "squishier", then it's your fluid. If your pedal stays firm, but the car can't stop as well it's your pads.

Good luck!

 

Hmm... I get the latter brake fade - pedal stays firm, but there seems to be the lack of brake power. I installed new Bönez Stage I front brake pads from rx7.com about 500miles ago. I guess they suck

Motul 600 ? Is that the same brake fluid as for motorcycles ?

 

They don't suck, but they aren't for tracking as they can't take the heat. I tried them as well and only got about 3 laps in before I started fading. Hawk pads will get you further, but if this is something you plan to do regularly you should get some dedicated race pads for the front. You can just change them at the track when you go and keep your Bonez pads for the street.

If you car is modified, the Bonez Stage I's are a good pad for the street.

My next event, I'll be running Super Blue and the N-Tech Lapping Day Brake Front Pads:

http://www.ntechengineering.com/inde...d=6&model_id=2

 

flush brake lines, get new brake lines, make sure you dont got a warped rotor, get new pads with a higher friction coefficient (for the street, i love Hawk HP+pads), you can get a larger brake master cylinder such as from the 969 or just say f*ck it and go for a brembo big brake kit with new steel braided lines with dot5 fluid.

good luck


BTW: if your brake system is operating like how its suppose to at stock settings with hawk HP+ pads on stock rotors, you should beable to tap your brakes and pretty much beable to throw your passenger foward. You should not beable to lock up your wheels though, if so your abs is screwed

 

There are about 4 track events each year that I attend. When these pads go I will try out the Hawk pads. There are two types if I'm not mistaken, which are better ? (I would like to avoid squeeking on the street if possible)

 

If you are going to track your car, you'll be better off with a dedicate race pad for the front for track use only. Then just put your street pads back on. If you are going to use Hawk pads, Hawk Blue Pads is what you need on the front.

Are you also running the Bonez Stage I brake pads on the rear?

Keep in mind that track pads require a warm up period to work optimally. Generally, you won't get that type of heat on them driving on normal streets so they aren't recommended for street use, only track use.

 

I only changed the front pads as they were worn out, so asume the back still carries the stock pads. I didn't think much about which ones to put on so I just ordered what RX7.com had that moment. They were even more expensive then Hawk pads at Jason's. I think I will indeed have to swap out the pads for every track session. I haven't done it before. Do you need any special tools and how long does it take ?

Btw. is Motul 600 a motorcycle brake fluid ?

 

The Hawk Blue pads for tracking are a LOT more expensive than normal Hawk or other street pads. They are about double the price of upgraded street pads.

As for swapping them out, all you should need is a flat screw driver, a vacuum line and little extra fluid to bleed your brakes after the pad switch. Should only take 20 minutes or less to do both sides on the front.

It was recommended to me to at least run upgraded street pads on the rear. Race pads would be nice, but at least something other than standard pads.


It's a synthetic fluid for hydraulic-actuated brake and clutch systems. I don't know anything about bikes as they are not a passion of mine, but if they have hydraulic brakes then it can be used with them as well.

Only use Motul 600 if you plan on changing your brake fluid more than once a year. If you don't want to mess with changing your brake fluid so often, use Super Blue. You can usually keep that in the car without any problems for quite a while.

 

I have the same problem, and its not a function of a "soft" pedal so much as how you need to position your feet... the pedals should have been further from the the floor... i need to hang my foot off the brake pedal and thus, the throttle needs to be lower than the brake at full engagement.

It IS somewhat adjustable.... for height and free play. Just check the service manual, it'll give you a better description than i can.

Also, I bought a used brake pedal, sawed it off the arm, and made several shims out of kydex, and bolted them on top of the brake pedal, through the holes, to bring it up about 1/2".

I also got the CWR/breslau widefoot gas pedal...

Now its about right.

 

Motul is active in the motorcycle industry (motorcross, etc.). But Motul is also involved w/ other types of racing,..ranging from trucks (Chevy for example) to sports cars (GT FIA....Ferrari 550 Marranello, Dodge Viper, etc.) to power boat racing.

They are known for their fluids.

 

Is this the "Super Blue" brake fluid ?
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/revie...hp?product=253

 

Yep.

 

Finally something that can be easily obtained in Europe

Anyone ever used Axxis brake pads ?

 

I mean these:
http://www.racerwheel.com/ax-23-331.html

 

These are street pads... not for the track.

 

Why don't you ask Oliver about his Project Mu pads?