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Polishing the UIM bad for heat dissipation?

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Old 02-24-05, 04:30 PM
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If your worried about the temp of air just do what I did, have the UIM ceramic coated. Not only does it help in keeping hot air in (exhaust) it also helps in dissipation of hot air around.

After a good run for a few hours open the hood and lean your hand on the UIM, is it not hot?
The UIM does heat soak from the high under hood temps. Ceramic caoting the UIM does help in lowering the temp of what the UIM takes in.
Old 02-24-05, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jxl914
-ok, now on to my idea. In the past we have intentionally roughed surfaces before the injectors to act as turbulence promoters. While turbulent air is generally bad, it's random nature has the benefit of mixing and creating a more homogeneous charge to the engine. If the surface was roughed intentionally, then this is probably the reason for it.
I agree, but I don't think thats the case with the UIM. I believe its better to have UIM extruded but its costly and also for money, could get other mods... especially when most of us aren't ever going to be that level. Thats pretty bottom of my list, as I learn more about these cars..
Old 02-24-05, 05:33 PM
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I've had this discussion several times with a couple different people and as others have already said the difference if any would be negligible. There's a lot of other things to worry about. Though it would be nice to have a carbon fiber UIM.
Old 02-24-05, 07:39 PM
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When you live in Canada, this subject never comes up.
As a consequence, I've painted my UIM black, as well as all other air pipes. I'm not too worried that I've reduced the thermal dissipation capacity of the system. In fact, we all have block heaters.
Old 02-24-05, 09:47 PM
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Another aspect no one has mentioned is that painting or powder coating the UIM will act as a thermal insulator, possibly creating more heat retention than the ever so slight loss of radiating area lost to polishing.
Old 02-24-05, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by FDjunkie
Another aspect no one has mentioned is that painting or powder coating the UIM will act as a thermal insulator, possibly creating more heat retention than the ever so slight loss of radiating area lost to polishing.
Ramy, just drop it.

Paint it, powder coat it, ceramic coat it, polish it, or take a big **** on it, because IT DOESN'T MATTER. The air charge doesn't spend enough time in the intake to pick up a significant amount of heat on its way through. Period. End of discussion.
Old 02-24-05, 10:38 PM
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Jim, I think you quoted someone else... thats not Ramy..

Either case, I agree with Jim.. I was going to go on and on about this thread, but I'm done..
Old 02-24-05, 11:54 PM
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The question is, do you really want to eliminate heat from the intake manifolds? What if they've been designed to dissipate heat from the engine? Aluminum will dissipate heat more quickly than cast iron, so think of your aluminum manifold as a heat sink as well as an air intake. I'd rather have a 150* (degree) F UIM than a 500*F rotor housing. If you look at the big picture, the temperature of the UIM is really not that big of a deal.


[note, I pulled those temperature numbers out of thin air. I don't know the max. safe temperature of the rotor housings, but I think it's very possible that the intake manifolds might be removing enough heat to help maintain that margin of safety.]

-s-

Last edited by scotty305; 02-24-05 at 11:57 PM.
Old 02-25-05, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by herblenny
Jim, I think you quoted someone else... thats not Ramy..
FDNewbie, FDjunkie, same thing.

I'm just so used to Ramy beating subjects to death that I stopped reading at FD...
Old 02-25-05, 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by DaleClark
First, the upper intake manifold is cast aluminum, not cast iron.
Gotcha. The turbo manifold is what's cast iron, right?

Second, the reason the factory doesn't polish the cast Al pieces is because it's expensive to do in a production run - it's much cheaper to put the cast part on the car, which really doesn't look *bad*.
Figures.

In theory, removing the roughness from casting COULD decrease heat dissipation, but I doubt you'd ever notice any difference. It's likely such a tiny difference in heat dissipation that it would be hard to measure. Even if there is a difference, are you going to get any performance gain or loss? Not really.
That's what most ppl have said. The reason I was asking (and what Jimlab has yet to figure out...even w/ his ever so expanding knowledge base) is that I often ask questions to understand the concepts behind it all, not simply because I wanna know if I should do this or that to my car. That's retarded. I'm trying to learn more about a field that's foreign to me, not just mod my car.

For example, in medicine, it's very well known that your intestines have villi and microvilli which serve to increase the surface area by how much? SIX HUNDRED FOLD. So loss of villi in any considerable amount (or removing any considerable portion of the intestines) will have a marked impact on your ability to absorb nutrients in your intestines. That's what was going through my mind, because that's my speciality - medicine.

I'm not a car guy, in fact before buying my FD, the extend of my automotive knowledge was minimal at best. I knew how to change your oil, and that turbos made your car fast. That's pretty much it. But over the past two and a half years, I've gained sooo much knowledge and hands-on experience from this forum and from fellow RX7 owners, mostly by reading and asking. And since I realize physics and mechanics aren't my strong points, I asked this question to see just how considerable or negligible the polishing of the UIM would be - and if in fact it was left bare like that specifically for increased surface area to dissipate heat. Because again, this isn't my field or speciality, so I couldn't tell just how vital those bumps were, or even what the goal was - dissipating or insulating. And apparently I wasn't the only one who had this question, as ptrhahn and others have posted.

Originally Posted by ptrhahn
I remember Brad Barber saying specifically that he left his manifold raw for heat dissapation. Surface area is surface area.

I've actually wondered about this as well in relation to ceramic coatings. Does one want to "seal in" the air, or "seal it out", and does the ceramic coating impede dissapation?

On a downpipe, it's obvious, you want to prevent the ultra-hot exhaust heat from disapating though the DP, and subsequently heating the engine bay... but on intake parts, it isn't so clear.
Theglassman even mentioned how he'd had this discussion with several others before. So yea, I agree w/ dgeesaman, this IS a good question. In fact, any thread that manages to pull out a response from Crispy is a damn good one in my opinion , So Jim, you just need to look past your biased "hey will this get me more hp" blinders you're judging me w/, as can be seen in this post of yours:

Originally Posted by jimlab
FDNewbie, FDjunkie, same thing.

I'm just so used to Ramy beating subjects to death that I stopped reading at FD...
Ramy, why do I get the feeling that you're going to reach 10,000 posts and still not really know anything substantial about your car?
Jim, simply said, I'm not afraid to ashamed to ask 1001 questions, because at the end of the day, the guy w/ 50 posts and the fastest FD but has no clue about how it works is not the guy who I want to be. You shoulda seen me in Calc & Physics class (back in the day)...I musta asked an average of 10 questions a class - and it paid off, cuz I ended up w/ A's (barely lol). That's not to say I need to justify my asking questions, but you obviously don't understand or realize the purpose behind the questions I ask.

I don't think I said in my original post "hey guys should I polish my UIM or not, cuz I'm not sure if it will decrease it's ability to dissipate heat, and I don't wanna lose hp." Rather, I relayed the info I got and left the question open-ended in hopes of maximizing the amount of information I can get in response. If my post count remained at 1, I'd still continue to ask all my questions and still be very adamant about getting answers, cuz I wanna be the guy who understand how it all works together (mostly), even though hey may never be adept enough to do the entire install himself. I'm not there yet, I'm not rolling w/ "the big dawgs," but I'm on the way, and I'll get there eventually - be it w/ 5K or 50K posts. It may take more ?s than others, but that's because the knowledge base I'm starting w/ is very different and the time I have is much less than others. But leave worrying about that up to me, eh?

Originally Posted by jimlab
At high rpm (or even at idle, for that matter), how much time do you think the air charge actually spends in the intake before being pulled into the engine? How much heat could it absorb between the intercooler and being burned? Not a hell of a lot.
Thanks...good point. Ok, so I don't need to worry about it. But I'm still interested in the premise itself.

Anyone worrying over whether or not polishing the casting will decrease its potential to dissipate heat has far too much free time on their hands, if you ask me. The upper intake manifold is going to heat soak eventually whether it's polished or left as-cast. If you're truly worried about it, have it thermal barrier coated inside and out.
And you just answered the premise here. Speaking of which...

Originally Posted by jxl914
In the past we have intentionally roughed surfaces before the injectors to act as turbulence promoters. While turbulent air is generally bad, it's random nature has the benefit of mixing and creating a more homogeneous charge to the engine. If the surface was roughed intentionally, then this is probably the reason for it.
I've read about this before...on that note, then wouldn't this treatment be counterproductive? http://www.rx7trix.com/store/custome...cat=202&page=1 The ceramic coating on the outside is great, because it would be insulating the UIM from the surrounding hot engine bay, but wouldn't the inner teflon coating provide too smooth an airflow, decreasing the mixing of the air? You'd want the inside to be a bit turbulent, right?
Old 02-25-05, 02:09 AM
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Heat flows from hotter to colder. The air flowing through the UIM is cooler than the air that surrounds it. By reducing the heat transfer at its outer surface (polish, coatings), you will be keeping heat out, not keeping it in.

However, it's probably true that effect is minimal, as some have pointed out, since the intake air rushes through the manifold pretty quickly. I decided to give some coatings a try, though, and had a "chrome" ceramic thermal barrier coating applied to the outside of my UIM and LIM.

-Max

Last edited by maxcooper; 02-25-05 at 02:21 AM. Reason: lettting it in --> keeping it in
Old 02-25-05, 02:12 AM
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Wow...now practicaly ALL the "big dawgs" put their $0.02 into this one. No Rynberg or Howard Coleman tho? We get them, and we practically got an All-Star thread The only thing missing would be a classic reference from Jim, something along the lines of "do you know how fast the air rushes through the UIM? In my V8, it's ...."

Max, thanks for clearing that up.

Last edited by FDNewbie; 02-25-05 at 02:17 AM.
Old 02-25-05, 02:21 AM
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Max, thanks for clearing that up.
I might be wrong -- but that's my best guess.

-Max
Old 02-25-05, 06:10 AM
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For example, in medicine, it's very well known that your intestines have villi and microvilli which serve to increase the surface area by how much? SIX HUNDRED FOLD. So loss of villi in any considerable amount (or removing any considerable portion of the intestines) will have a marked impact on your ability to absorb nutrients in your intestines. That's what was going through my mind, because that's my speciality - medicine.

Last edited by FDSkyline; 02-25-05 at 06:15 AM.
Old 02-25-05, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Gotcha. The turbo manifold is what's cast iron, right??
Yep.

Originally Posted by FDNewbie
I've read about this before...on that note, then wouldn't this treatment be counterproductive? http://www.rx7trix.com/store/custome...cat=202&page=1 The ceramic coating on the outside is great, because it would be insulating the UIM from the surrounding hot engine bay, but wouldn't the inner teflon coating provide too smooth an airflow, decreasing the mixing of the air? You'd want the inside to be a bit turbulent, right?
Airflow is a funny thing. Sometimes you want turbulence, sometimes you don't. When applied to heat transfer, it gets even less intuitive since the speed of the flow can for both for and against you. So at full throttle and idle conditions are vastly different, and no surface treatment is optimal for all conditions. Just like aerodynamics, a basic understanding of transient heat transfer and intake flow isn't enough to draw conclusions - you need to either do experimentation or some detailed analysis to really understand what to do. I suspect that's why the folks with an aerodynamics background stay quiet around here. This thread has crossed into several such disciplines at once. Very easy to draw logical questions, very hard to get conclusive answers.

In the case of injected air, even distribution of fuel and air is a challenge and affects things like preignition and detonation. In theory, the turbulent air helps swirl around the atomized fuel spray (atomization not "itemization" ) to get a slightly better mix. So clearly it's important to rotary engines, especially on tuned cars. In practice, good injectors probably help more.

Those plastic UIM gaskets on eBay at first sounded like a joke, but thinking more about the heat conducting from the block to the LIM to the UIM, it makes sense. I'm tempted to try using some high temperature insulative fiberglass as a gasket to see if helps keep idle intake temps down. What would make more sense to me is either putting an ice bag on it before a hard run (ala autocrossing style), or adding a fan to force some cooling air around in that part of the engine bay.

Regarding the Teflon treatment: Until you've dealt with icing, carbon buildup that goes beyond cleaning the UIM with carb cleaner when it's off the car, and fuel spray issues, how do you know if it works? Someone would have to try it and see if it works.

I understand Jim's tiredness of the subject. There are a million things in the auto world that logically sound like an improvement, but in practice don't work or don't matter. But all of them can be sold to make money. Unless you have a background in racing where you've actuallly experimented with them, or a background in engineering to help filter the ideas a little, it's got to be blinding. I get quite sick of reading them too, especially since the sales pitches that do quote experimental data are usually manipulated quite cleverly to show off the product.

Dave

Last edited by dgeesaman; 02-25-05 at 07:55 AM.
Old 02-25-05, 07:54 AM
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yeah, according to the logic in my last post, which probably sucks, polishing the intake will be counterpruductive from the standpoint of promoting turbulent flow
Old 02-25-05, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by jxl914
polishing the intake will be counterpruductive from the standpoint of promoting turbulent flow
HAa?? I don't know about that.. I think we all need to sit back and realize, polishing or not polishing, painting or not painting, or coating or no coating, the exterior of UIM will not contribute enough to really worry about.
Ramy, I know you were comparing with structure of intestine to maybe the exterior functionality of UIM.. But better way to compare will be which INTERCOOLER design will better cool the compressed air. I think people tend to get stuck on one thing and not realizing that there are more important things to worry about.. Also, shortening the length of over all IC piping, pre-cooling of the IC piping, the number of turns, angle of those turns, insulating cooled air after IC, etc etc..

Also, some might haven't thought of this, but the hot coolant flows through the throttle body.. If you still have your coolant line to TB, it will be warm as your coolant.. Serious, Get your UIM polished.. Its mainly for looks.. I did it and did it not because its going to optimize my intake temp, but to look shiny and ricey!! If you want some sort of performance out of your UIM.. get it ported and extruded.. Some say it makes 10+ more HPs... Otherwise, think of other **** that matters more.. I think this would be something that you have exhaust all the other priority mods and now you just absolutely ran out of things you could optimize...

Last edited by Herblenny; 02-25-05 at 08:28 AM.
Old 02-25-05, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
you obviously don't understand or realize the purpose behind the questions I ask.
Of course I do. It takes you 10 posts to come to the conclusion that someone else might in 1 or 2.

If my post count remained at 1, I'd still continue to ask all my questions and still be very adamant about getting answers, cuz I wanna be the guy who understand how it all works together (mostly), even though hey may never be adept enough to do the entire install himself.
Then you might want to consider that your questions still exhibit a lack of understanding of "things automotive" (and sometimes common sense) that I haven't seen improving significantly as time passes. Sometimes I think you ask questions just to get involved in a thread for something to do, and I don't get the sense that you're really processing the answers.

It may take more ?s than others, but that's because the knowledge base I'm starting w/ is very different and the time I have is much less than others. But leave worrying about that up to me, eh?
Fair enough. Just telling you what I see.

I've read about this before...on that note, then wouldn't this treatment be counterproductive? http://www.rx7trix.com/store/custome...cat=202&page=1 The ceramic coating on the outside is great, because it would be insulating the UIM from the surrounding hot engine bay, but wouldn't the inner teflon coating provide too smooth an airflow, decreasing the mixing of the air? You'd want the inside to be a bit turbulent, right?
The fact that they say the Teflon helps with "fuel itemization" should tell you something. Since they're not smoothing the insides of the runners in the process and since fuel doesn't enter the intake tract until the air is past the upper intake manifold, it's irrelevant anyway. Just another way to separate a fool from more of his money, if you ask me.
Old 02-25-05, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by herblenny
extruded...
Don't even get me started on Extrude Hone.

As a way to remove material from areas where a traditional tool can't reach, it's great. But as far as improving flow, keep in mind that enlarging the diameter of the intake runners is going to hurt velocity at low rpm. In other words, it'll cost you low end power and give you a minor gain on the top end, especially with stock twins. If you're a drag racer with a huge single turbo or twins and your intake is literally the bottle neck, then hog it out by all means. But for 99% of the FD owners on this forum, Extrude Hone is a complete waste of money. If someone says it makes 10+ more horsepower, find out where in the rpm range and with what combination.

You'll note that cylinder head porting is still done by CNC machine and by hand, not by Extrude Hone. That's because "increasing the diameter of the firehose" is not always a good thing. My 215cc (intake runner volume) heads were delivered raw and then ported. They actually ended up at about 213cc. You want the highest volume of flow with the smallest possible port to keep velocity high at low rpm for good drivability. That's what makes a good street head. If my heads were for racing only, then I'd be in the 230+ cc range with a cam that would barely idle below 1,500 rpm, and running a steady diet of 116 octane with 14.0:1 compression.
Old 02-25-05, 11:04 AM
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Jim,

Thats what I've heard also.. Benefit at high RPM.. I was initially going to get one of my UIM and LIM extruded.. but decided not too.. Only reason I considered is because I could get it for free.. but it ended up taking too long and I didn't think it was worth the wait (waited 6months).. Especially within next year to 5 years, I'll have something else in my car.. Hopefully within a year than 5..
Old 02-25-05, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by FDSkyline
I was showing my thought process. Besides, it's my thread

Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Airflow is a funny thing. Sometimes you want turbulence, sometimes you don't. When applied to heat transfer, it gets even less intuitive since the speed of the flow can for both for and against you. So at full throttle and idle conditions are vastly different, and no surface treatment is optimal for all conditions. Just like aerodynamics, a basic understanding of transient heat transfer and intake flow isn't enough to draw conclusions - you need to either do experimentation or some detailed analysis to really understand what to do. I suspect that's why the folks with an aerodynamics background stay quiet around here. This thread has crossed into several such disciplines at once. Very easy to draw logical questions, very hard to get conclusive answers.
Gotcha. That makes sense.

Those plastic UIM gaskets on eBay at first sounded like a joke, but thinking more about the heat conducting from the block to the LIM to the UIM, it makes sense. I'm tempted to try using some high temperature insulative fiberglass as a gasket to see if helps keep idle intake temps down. What would make more sense to me is either putting an ice bag on it before a hard run (ala autocrossing style), or adding a fan to force some cooling air around in that part of the engine bay.
Yea I've heard about the ice bag method... As for the plastic Ebay gaskets (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WDVW) I see where you're going w/ this, but you know the first thing that came to my mind? Plastic = prob going to melt or get brittle, possibly fracture under the heat and pressure from expansion & contraction of the aluminum manifolds? I'm guessing here...

I understand Jim's tiredness of the subject. There are a million things in the auto world that logically sound like an improvement, but in practice don't work or don't matter. But all of them can be sold to make money. Unless you have a background in racing where you've actuallly experimented with them, or a background in engineering to help filter the ideas a little, it's got to be blinding. I get quite sick of reading them too, especially since the sales pitches that do quote experimental data are usually manipulated quite cleverly to show off the product.
Dave, I understand your point 100%. I was trying to clarify that this wasn't so much a "should I do this" thread vs. "is this how it works" thread, at least for ME. As was shown, I thought the UIM was dissipating heat, and it turns out it's absorbing it, since the air in it is colder than the surrounding engine bay air.

Originally Posted by herblenny
Ramy, I know you were comparing with structure of intestine to maybe the exterior functionality of UIM.. But better way to compare will be which INTERCOOLER design will better cool the compressed air.
Phil, I compare w/ what I know

I think people tend to get stuck on one thing and not realizing that there are more important things to worry about.. Also, shortening the length of over all IC piping, pre-cooling of the IC piping, the number of turns, angle of those turns, insulating cooled air after IC, etc etc..
Point well taken. Someone else mentioned how a bigger priority would be to worry about those thin aluminum polished IC pipes. Having said that, would it be smarter to use a thicker material, or possibly even thermowrap them? Or are we again talking about negligible gains/losses?

Also, some might haven't thought of this, but the hot coolant flows through the throttle body.. If you still have your coolant line to TB, it will be warm as your coolant..
Yea I removed the coolant line to my TB and the FIC a few months back...didn't like the idea of super hot coolant flowing through the TB. I just know to stay off the throttle until the car's fully warmed up. Not sure how much benefit losing the coolant line was, but it made sense to me...

Serious, Get your UIM polished.. Its mainly for looks.. I did it and did it not because its going to optimize my intake temp, but to look shiny and ricey!!
That's what we all do it for Phil. Just wanted to know if there was something more to it tho.

Originally Posted by jimlab
Of course I do. It takes you 10 posts to come to the conclusion that someone else might in 1 or 2.

Then you might want to consider that your questions still exhibit a lack of understanding of "things automotive" (and sometimes common sense) that I haven't seen improving significantly as time passes. Sometimes I think you ask questions just to get involved in a thread for something to do, and I don't get the sense that you're really processing the answers.
That may very well be true, but again, keep in mind it's because I'm seeing bits and peices of the puzzle isolated from one another, not the picture as a whole. I really need to get through the "Rotary Engine Illustrated" website and any other good material to walk me through everything (in general) from start to finish to bring it together. Part of the reason why I didn't know whether the UIM was dissipating or absorbing heat was because in all honesty, it wasn't crystal for me how the air was flowing, given all the various pipes and components (intake, IC, radiator, turbos etc)

Fair enough. Just telling you what I see.
It's always easier to see if you already understand the equation as a whole, don'tcha think?

The fact that they say the Teflon helps with "fuel itemization" should tell you something. Since they're not smoothing the insides of the runners in the process and since fuel doesn't enter the intake tract until the air is past the upper intake manifold, it's irrelevant anyway. Just another way to separate a fool from more of his money, if you ask me.
Nuff said lol.

Originally Posted by jimlab
As a way to remove material from areas where a traditional tool can't reach, it's great. But as far as improving flow, keep in mind that enlarging the diameter of the intake runners is going to hurt velocity at low rpm. In other words, it'll cost you low end power and give you a minor gain on the top end, especially with stock twins. If you're a drag racer with a huge single turbo or twins and your intake is literally the bottle neck, then hog it out by all means. But for 99% of the FD owners on this forum, Extrude Hone is a complete waste of money. If someone says it makes 10+ more horsepower, find out where in the rpm range and with what combination.
Go figure...believe it or not, this was EXACTLY what I was thinking when I read Phil's post. 1) Cross-sectional diameter is inversely proportional to velocity, and 2) You have to have whoever claimed the 10+ more hp qualify the statement (ie under what parameters)

Last edited by FDNewbie; 02-25-05 at 11:25 AM.
Old 02-25-05, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Yea I've heard about the ice bag method... As for the plastic Ebay gaskets (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WDVW) I see where you're going w/ this, but you know the first thing that came to my mind? Plastic = prob going to melt or get brittle, possibly fracture under the heat and pressure from expansion & contraction of the aluminum manifolds? I'm guessing here...
The good news is that gasket has space to grow, sideways. But, I agree it could cook and then leak.

I guess someone needs to use a temp probe to see how how the LIM really gets. I suspect it's not That Bad, since the mazda gasket is rubber-coated metal, and rubber usually doesn't handle much in the way of temperature.

I was thinking of using G-11, which is an electrical insulator mostly. But it's got good high temp resistance. Unfortunately it could be expensive.

Dave
Old 02-25-05, 01:06 PM
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I just looked at that gasket.. Man.. AWESOME stuff!!! UPTO 5% HP!!! so, if I'm making 300+ I might get 15 horsepower by going with the gasket.. Come on!! What is this "spaceage" material??? Plastic at one point was consider "spaceage material".. And supposed to give "much cooler intake/denser intake charge". It might be cooler, but not sure about "much" cooler.. and also I don't know about noticable HP gain..
Old 02-25-05, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
I was thinking of using G-11, which is an electrical insulator mostly. But it's got good high temp resistance. Unfortunately it could be expensive.
Hit up some of your oldtime NASA boys. I'm sure one of your friends can hook you up w/ some leftover material or something

Originally Posted by herblenny
What is this "spaceage" material??? Plastic at one point was consider "spaceage material"
I think you just answered your own question Phil
Old 02-25-05, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
I think you just answered your own question Phil
Did I??

Ramy, wait, so did you use that TB that Garfinkle polished??
Just wondering.. I thought for some reason, you already had your engine bay all blinged out like mine..


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