Polishing the UIM bad for heat dissipation?
#26
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (9)
If your worried about the temp of air just do what I did, have the UIM ceramic coated. Not only does it help in keeping hot air in (exhaust) it also helps in dissipation of hot air around.
After a good run for a few hours open the hood and lean your hand on the UIM, is it not hot?
The UIM does heat soak from the high under hood temps. Ceramic caoting the UIM does help in lowering the temp of what the UIM takes in.
After a good run for a few hours open the hood and lean your hand on the UIM, is it not hot?
The UIM does heat soak from the high under hood temps. Ceramic caoting the UIM does help in lowering the temp of what the UIM takes in.
#27
DGRR 2017 4/26-4/30, 2017
iTrader: (13)
Originally Posted by jxl914
-ok, now on to my idea. In the past we have intentionally roughed surfaces before the injectors to act as turbulence promoters. While turbulent air is generally bad, it's random nature has the benefit of mixing and creating a more homogeneous charge to the engine. If the surface was roughed intentionally, then this is probably the reason for it.
#29
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When you live in Canada, this subject never comes up.
As a consequence, I've painted my UIM black, as well as all other air pipes. I'm not too worried that I've reduced the thermal dissipation capacity of the system. In fact, we all have block heaters.
As a consequence, I've painted my UIM black, as well as all other air pipes. I'm not too worried that I've reduced the thermal dissipation capacity of the system. In fact, we all have block heaters.
#30
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Another aspect no one has mentioned is that painting or powder coating the UIM will act as a thermal insulator, possibly creating more heat retention than the ever so slight loss of radiating area lost to polishing.
#31
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by FDjunkie
Another aspect no one has mentioned is that painting or powder coating the UIM will act as a thermal insulator, possibly creating more heat retention than the ever so slight loss of radiating area lost to polishing.
Paint it, powder coat it, ceramic coat it, polish it, or take a big **** on it, because IT DOESN'T MATTER. The air charge doesn't spend enough time in the intake to pick up a significant amount of heat on its way through. Period. End of discussion.
#33
~17 MPG
iTrader: (2)
The question is, do you really want to eliminate heat from the intake manifolds? What if they've been designed to dissipate heat from the engine? Aluminum will dissipate heat more quickly than cast iron, so think of your aluminum manifold as a heat sink as well as an air intake. I'd rather have a 150* (degree) F UIM than a 500*F rotor housing. If you look at the big picture, the temperature of the UIM is really not that big of a deal.
[note, I pulled those temperature numbers out of thin air. I don't know the max. safe temperature of the rotor housings, but I think it's very possible that the intake manifolds might be removing enough heat to help maintain that margin of safety.]
-s-
[note, I pulled those temperature numbers out of thin air. I don't know the max. safe temperature of the rotor housings, but I think it's very possible that the intake manifolds might be removing enough heat to help maintain that margin of safety.]
-s-
Last edited by scotty305; 02-24-05 at 11:57 PM.
#34
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by herblenny
Jim, I think you quoted someone else... thats not Ramy..
I'm just so used to Ramy beating subjects to death that I stopped reading at FD...
#35
Originally Posted by DaleClark
First, the upper intake manifold is cast aluminum, not cast iron.
Second, the reason the factory doesn't polish the cast Al pieces is because it's expensive to do in a production run - it's much cheaper to put the cast part on the car, which really doesn't look *bad*.
In theory, removing the roughness from casting COULD decrease heat dissipation, but I doubt you'd ever notice any difference. It's likely such a tiny difference in heat dissipation that it would be hard to measure. Even if there is a difference, are you going to get any performance gain or loss? Not really.
For example, in medicine, it's very well known that your intestines have villi and microvilli which serve to increase the surface area by how much? SIX HUNDRED FOLD. So loss of villi in any considerable amount (or removing any considerable portion of the intestines) will have a marked impact on your ability to absorb nutrients in your intestines. That's what was going through my mind, because that's my speciality - medicine.
I'm not a car guy, in fact before buying my FD, the extend of my automotive knowledge was minimal at best. I knew how to change your oil, and that turbos made your car fast. That's pretty much it. But over the past two and a half years, I've gained sooo much knowledge and hands-on experience from this forum and from fellow RX7 owners, mostly by reading and asking. And since I realize physics and mechanics aren't my strong points, I asked this question to see just how considerable or negligible the polishing of the UIM would be - and if in fact it was left bare like that specifically for increased surface area to dissipate heat. Because again, this isn't my field or speciality, so I couldn't tell just how vital those bumps were, or even what the goal was - dissipating or insulating. And apparently I wasn't the only one who had this question, as ptrhahn and others have posted.
Originally Posted by ptrhahn
I remember Brad Barber saying specifically that he left his manifold raw for heat dissapation. Surface area is surface area.
I've actually wondered about this as well in relation to ceramic coatings. Does one want to "seal in" the air, or "seal it out", and does the ceramic coating impede dissapation?
On a downpipe, it's obvious, you want to prevent the ultra-hot exhaust heat from disapating though the DP, and subsequently heating the engine bay... but on intake parts, it isn't so clear.
I've actually wondered about this as well in relation to ceramic coatings. Does one want to "seal in" the air, or "seal it out", and does the ceramic coating impede dissapation?
On a downpipe, it's obvious, you want to prevent the ultra-hot exhaust heat from disapating though the DP, and subsequently heating the engine bay... but on intake parts, it isn't so clear.
Originally Posted by jimlab
FDNewbie, FDjunkie, same thing.
I'm just so used to Ramy beating subjects to death that I stopped reading at FD...
I'm just so used to Ramy beating subjects to death that I stopped reading at FD...
Ramy, why do I get the feeling that you're going to reach 10,000 posts and still not really know anything substantial about your car?
I don't think I said in my original post "hey guys should I polish my UIM or not, cuz I'm not sure if it will decrease it's ability to dissipate heat, and I don't wanna lose hp." Rather, I relayed the info I got and left the question open-ended in hopes of maximizing the amount of information I can get in response. If my post count remained at 1, I'd still continue to ask all my questions and still be very adamant about getting answers, cuz I wanna be the guy who understand how it all works together (mostly), even though hey may never be adept enough to do the entire install himself. I'm not there yet, I'm not rolling w/ "the big dawgs," but I'm on the way, and I'll get there eventually - be it w/ 5K or 50K posts. It may take more ?s than others, but that's because the knowledge base I'm starting w/ is very different and the time I have is much less than others. But leave worrying about that up to me, eh?
Originally Posted by jimlab
At high rpm (or even at idle, for that matter), how much time do you think the air charge actually spends in the intake before being pulled into the engine? How much heat could it absorb between the intercooler and being burned? Not a hell of a lot.
Anyone worrying over whether or not polishing the casting will decrease its potential to dissipate heat has far too much free time on their hands, if you ask me. The upper intake manifold is going to heat soak eventually whether it's polished or left as-cast. If you're truly worried about it, have it thermal barrier coated inside and out.
Originally Posted by jxl914
In the past we have intentionally roughed surfaces before the injectors to act as turbulence promoters. While turbulent air is generally bad, it's random nature has the benefit of mixing and creating a more homogeneous charge to the engine. If the surface was roughed intentionally, then this is probably the reason for it.
#36
Heat flows from hotter to colder. The air flowing through the UIM is cooler than the air that surrounds it. By reducing the heat transfer at its outer surface (polish, coatings), you will be keeping heat out, not keeping it in.
However, it's probably true that effect is minimal, as some have pointed out, since the intake air rushes through the manifold pretty quickly. I decided to give some coatings a try, though, and had a "chrome" ceramic thermal barrier coating applied to the outside of my UIM and LIM.
-Max
However, it's probably true that effect is minimal, as some have pointed out, since the intake air rushes through the manifold pretty quickly. I decided to give some coatings a try, though, and had a "chrome" ceramic thermal barrier coating applied to the outside of my UIM and LIM.
-Max
Last edited by maxcooper; 02-25-05 at 02:21 AM. Reason: lettting it in --> keeping it in
#37
Wow...now practicaly ALL the "big dawgs" put their $0.02 into this one. No Rynberg or Howard Coleman tho? We get them, and we practically got an All-Star thread The only thing missing would be a classic reference from Jim, something along the lines of "do you know how fast the air rushes through the UIM? In my V8, it's ...."
Max, thanks for clearing that up.
Max, thanks for clearing that up.
Last edited by FDNewbie; 02-25-05 at 02:17 AM.
#39
For example, in medicine, it's very well known that your intestines have villi and microvilli which serve to increase the surface area by how much? SIX HUNDRED FOLD. So loss of villi in any considerable amount (or removing any considerable portion of the intestines) will have a marked impact on your ability to absorb nutrients in your intestines. That's what was going through my mind, because that's my speciality - medicine.
Last edited by FDSkyline; 02-25-05 at 06:15 AM.
#40
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Gotcha. The turbo manifold is what's cast iron, right??
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
I've read about this before...on that note, then wouldn't this treatment be counterproductive? http://www.rx7trix.com/store/custome...cat=202&page=1 The ceramic coating on the outside is great, because it would be insulating the UIM from the surrounding hot engine bay, but wouldn't the inner teflon coating provide too smooth an airflow, decreasing the mixing of the air? You'd want the inside to be a bit turbulent, right?
In the case of injected air, even distribution of fuel and air is a challenge and affects things like preignition and detonation. In theory, the turbulent air helps swirl around the atomized fuel spray (atomization not "itemization" ) to get a slightly better mix. So clearly it's important to rotary engines, especially on tuned cars. In practice, good injectors probably help more.
Those plastic UIM gaskets on eBay at first sounded like a joke, but thinking more about the heat conducting from the block to the LIM to the UIM, it makes sense. I'm tempted to try using some high temperature insulative fiberglass as a gasket to see if helps keep idle intake temps down. What would make more sense to me is either putting an ice bag on it before a hard run (ala autocrossing style), or adding a fan to force some cooling air around in that part of the engine bay.
Regarding the Teflon treatment: Until you've dealt with icing, carbon buildup that goes beyond cleaning the UIM with carb cleaner when it's off the car, and fuel spray issues, how do you know if it works? Someone would have to try it and see if it works.
I understand Jim's tiredness of the subject. There are a million things in the auto world that logically sound like an improvement, but in practice don't work or don't matter. But all of them can be sold to make money. Unless you have a background in racing where you've actuallly experimented with them, or a background in engineering to help filter the ideas a little, it's got to be blinding. I get quite sick of reading them too, especially since the sales pitches that do quote experimental data are usually manipulated quite cleverly to show off the product.
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; 02-25-05 at 07:55 AM.
#42
DGRR 2017 4/26-4/30, 2017
iTrader: (13)
Originally Posted by jxl914
polishing the intake will be counterpruductive from the standpoint of promoting turbulent flow
Ramy, I know you were comparing with structure of intestine to maybe the exterior functionality of UIM.. But better way to compare will be which INTERCOOLER design will better cool the compressed air. I think people tend to get stuck on one thing and not realizing that there are more important things to worry about.. Also, shortening the length of over all IC piping, pre-cooling of the IC piping, the number of turns, angle of those turns, insulating cooled air after IC, etc etc..
Also, some might haven't thought of this, but the hot coolant flows through the throttle body.. If you still have your coolant line to TB, it will be warm as your coolant.. Serious, Get your UIM polished.. Its mainly for looks.. I did it and did it not because its going to optimize my intake temp, but to look shiny and ricey!! If you want some sort of performance out of your UIM.. get it ported and extruded.. Some say it makes 10+ more HPs... Otherwise, think of other **** that matters more.. I think this would be something that you have exhaust all the other priority mods and now you just absolutely ran out of things you could optimize...
Last edited by Herblenny; 02-25-05 at 08:28 AM.
#43
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
you obviously don't understand or realize the purpose behind the questions I ask.
If my post count remained at 1, I'd still continue to ask all my questions and still be very adamant about getting answers, cuz I wanna be the guy who understand how it all works together (mostly), even though hey may never be adept enough to do the entire install himself.
It may take more ?s than others, but that's because the knowledge base I'm starting w/ is very different and the time I have is much less than others. But leave worrying about that up to me, eh?
I've read about this before...on that note, then wouldn't this treatment be counterproductive? http://www.rx7trix.com/store/custome...cat=202&page=1 The ceramic coating on the outside is great, because it would be insulating the UIM from the surrounding hot engine bay, but wouldn't the inner teflon coating provide too smooth an airflow, decreasing the mixing of the air? You'd want the inside to be a bit turbulent, right?
#44
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by herblenny
extruded...
As a way to remove material from areas where a traditional tool can't reach, it's great. But as far as improving flow, keep in mind that enlarging the diameter of the intake runners is going to hurt velocity at low rpm. In other words, it'll cost you low end power and give you a minor gain on the top end, especially with stock twins. If you're a drag racer with a huge single turbo or twins and your intake is literally the bottle neck, then hog it out by all means. But for 99% of the FD owners on this forum, Extrude Hone is a complete waste of money. If someone says it makes 10+ more horsepower, find out where in the rpm range and with what combination.
You'll note that cylinder head porting is still done by CNC machine and by hand, not by Extrude Hone. That's because "increasing the diameter of the firehose" is not always a good thing. My 215cc (intake runner volume) heads were delivered raw and then ported. They actually ended up at about 213cc. You want the highest volume of flow with the smallest possible port to keep velocity high at low rpm for good drivability. That's what makes a good street head. If my heads were for racing only, then I'd be in the 230+ cc range with a cam that would barely idle below 1,500 rpm, and running a steady diet of 116 octane with 14.0:1 compression.
#45
DGRR 2017 4/26-4/30, 2017
iTrader: (13)
Jim,
Thats what I've heard also.. Benefit at high RPM.. I was initially going to get one of my UIM and LIM extruded.. but decided not too.. Only reason I considered is because I could get it for free.. but it ended up taking too long and I didn't think it was worth the wait (waited 6months).. Especially within next year to 5 years, I'll have something else in my car.. Hopefully within a year than 5..
Thats what I've heard also.. Benefit at high RPM.. I was initially going to get one of my UIM and LIM extruded.. but decided not too.. Only reason I considered is because I could get it for free.. but it ended up taking too long and I didn't think it was worth the wait (waited 6months).. Especially within next year to 5 years, I'll have something else in my car.. Hopefully within a year than 5..
#46
Originally Posted by FDSkyline
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Airflow is a funny thing. Sometimes you want turbulence, sometimes you don't. When applied to heat transfer, it gets even less intuitive since the speed of the flow can for both for and against you. So at full throttle and idle conditions are vastly different, and no surface treatment is optimal for all conditions. Just like aerodynamics, a basic understanding of transient heat transfer and intake flow isn't enough to draw conclusions - you need to either do experimentation or some detailed analysis to really understand what to do. I suspect that's why the folks with an aerodynamics background stay quiet around here. This thread has crossed into several such disciplines at once. Very easy to draw logical questions, very hard to get conclusive answers.
Those plastic UIM gaskets on eBay at first sounded like a joke, but thinking more about the heat conducting from the block to the LIM to the UIM, it makes sense. I'm tempted to try using some high temperature insulative fiberglass as a gasket to see if helps keep idle intake temps down. What would make more sense to me is either putting an ice bag on it before a hard run (ala autocrossing style), or adding a fan to force some cooling air around in that part of the engine bay.
I understand Jim's tiredness of the subject. There are a million things in the auto world that logically sound like an improvement, but in practice don't work or don't matter. But all of them can be sold to make money. Unless you have a background in racing where you've actuallly experimented with them, or a background in engineering to help filter the ideas a little, it's got to be blinding. I get quite sick of reading them too, especially since the sales pitches that do quote experimental data are usually manipulated quite cleverly to show off the product.
Originally Posted by herblenny
Ramy, I know you were comparing with structure of intestine to maybe the exterior functionality of UIM.. But better way to compare will be which INTERCOOLER design will better cool the compressed air.
I think people tend to get stuck on one thing and not realizing that there are more important things to worry about.. Also, shortening the length of over all IC piping, pre-cooling of the IC piping, the number of turns, angle of those turns, insulating cooled air after IC, etc etc..
Also, some might haven't thought of this, but the hot coolant flows through the throttle body.. If you still have your coolant line to TB, it will be warm as your coolant..
Serious, Get your UIM polished.. Its mainly for looks.. I did it and did it not because its going to optimize my intake temp, but to look shiny and ricey!!
Originally Posted by jimlab
Of course I do. It takes you 10 posts to come to the conclusion that someone else might in 1 or 2.
Then you might want to consider that your questions still exhibit a lack of understanding of "things automotive" (and sometimes common sense) that I haven't seen improving significantly as time passes. Sometimes I think you ask questions just to get involved in a thread for something to do, and I don't get the sense that you're really processing the answers.
Then you might want to consider that your questions still exhibit a lack of understanding of "things automotive" (and sometimes common sense) that I haven't seen improving significantly as time passes. Sometimes I think you ask questions just to get involved in a thread for something to do, and I don't get the sense that you're really processing the answers.
Fair enough. Just telling you what I see.
The fact that they say the Teflon helps with "fuel itemization" should tell you something. Since they're not smoothing the insides of the runners in the process and since fuel doesn't enter the intake tract until the air is past the upper intake manifold, it's irrelevant anyway. Just another way to separate a fool from more of his money, if you ask me.
Originally Posted by jimlab
As a way to remove material from areas where a traditional tool can't reach, it's great. But as far as improving flow, keep in mind that enlarging the diameter of the intake runners is going to hurt velocity at low rpm. In other words, it'll cost you low end power and give you a minor gain on the top end, especially with stock twins. If you're a drag racer with a huge single turbo or twins and your intake is literally the bottle neck, then hog it out by all means. But for 99% of the FD owners on this forum, Extrude Hone is a complete waste of money. If someone says it makes 10+ more horsepower, find out where in the rpm range and with what combination.
Last edited by FDNewbie; 02-25-05 at 11:25 AM.
#47
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Yea I've heard about the ice bag method... As for the plastic Ebay gaskets (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WDVW) I see where you're going w/ this, but you know the first thing that came to my mind? Plastic = prob going to melt or get brittle, possibly fracture under the heat and pressure from expansion & contraction of the aluminum manifolds? I'm guessing here...
I guess someone needs to use a temp probe to see how how the LIM really gets. I suspect it's not That Bad, since the mazda gasket is rubber-coated metal, and rubber usually doesn't handle much in the way of temperature.
I was thinking of using G-11, which is an electrical insulator mostly. But it's got good high temp resistance. Unfortunately it could be expensive.
Dave
#48
DGRR 2017 4/26-4/30, 2017
iTrader: (13)
I just looked at that gasket.. Man.. AWESOME stuff!!! UPTO 5% HP!!! so, if I'm making 300+ I might get 15 horsepower by going with the gasket.. Come on!! What is this "spaceage" material??? Plastic at one point was consider "spaceage material".. And supposed to give "much cooler intake/denser intake charge". It might be cooler, but not sure about "much" cooler.. and also I don't know about noticable HP gain..
#49
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
I was thinking of using G-11, which is an electrical insulator mostly. But it's got good high temp resistance. Unfortunately it could be expensive.
Originally Posted by herblenny
What is this "spaceage" material??? Plastic at one point was consider "spaceage material"