Flying_solo

iTrader: (7)

I had a few things that made replacing my pillow ***** a snap and felt it was time to contribute back to the internets for all it's help.

First tip: I had an easy time pressing out said pillow ***** by using a Harbor Freight 3in1 Press kit.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-...kit-38335.html

Using this with my impact took no time to press them out. To press them back in, I just used a large Socket that fit over the inner bushing and used the small backing plate at the other end. It pressed right in. I have a spare arm so I can get a sample photo if folks need one.

Second tip: I was having a heck of a time getting the arms back in as the new pillow ***** were a little wider then their worn out old cousins. After two beers and much cussing I realized that the arms had pressed in sleeves. So, I rigged up a little solution using a 24mm socket, a bolt and nut and some PB Blaster for good measure. I pressed out one sleeve ever so slightly to give me a little more play. In theory, the sleeve will go back when I tighten down the bolt. I did watch and ensure the sleeve did tighten and then loosened the nut and retorqued when finished.



I hope these tips help. Doing your pillow ***** is very easy. Probably the hardest part is getting the damn clips in and out. Don't be dumb like me and realize you forgot to install the clips till AFTER you put the arms back on. Also pay attention to the marks for your shocks and bushing for your lower control arms so you don't have to reinstall those twice like me. Practice does make perfect though.

nismosilvia270r

iTrader: (5)

if you have a pic of what you describe as the "inner bushing" and "backing plate", please post.

i think i know what youre describing, but could be anything

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Look in that photo posted by the OP. The sleeve is visible on the left ear of that control arm. It's also visible under the wrench on the right ear. That round protrusion with a hole in it is a steel sleeve pressed into the cast aluminum arm. Using a bolt to draw it back in is a common practice.

If you watch for coupons and sales, a small hydraulic press can still be had for not much more. I've used the ball-joint press for other things. Personally I think the hydraulic versions would be better if you have the space. I feel like I have more control, especially during installation. And particularly with that damn toe-link bushing with the aluminum sleeve.
This one http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-a...ress-1666.html
or this one http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-...ess-33497.html

Flying_solo

iTrader: (7)

I put in the TCS toe links so I didn't replace those bushings. I agree a hydraulic would be nicer. I didn't have much problem, I just hand tightened the driver then started slow with the impact. Space is an issue in my garage.

@nismosilvia270r I'll take a photo after work of an example of pressing in/out a bushing with my spare arm for you.

nismosilvia270r

iTrader: (5)

thanks, but im 99% sure that you and i are talking about two different things.
im talking about the bushing itself. im sure you are referring to the sleeves (because you said "sleeves") in the knuckle
- (ive always called that the knuckle and to hear it called control arm sounds wierd, since i consider the control arm as the part with the actual bushing in it).

ive done bushing job already, it just reads like OP applied pressure to the "inner bushing" instead of the outer race. just trying to clear that up.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

You're right. I mis-read. Sorry.

Flying_solo

iTrader: (7)

Ah, no I did not apply pressure to the inner bushing when pressing in I used a socket big enough to fit around the inner bushing. I did apply pressure to the inner bushing when pressing out though.