dubulup

seq...will spool very fast with almost any port, very small area for the exhaust to flow thru to spool the primary.

Brian is running NS.

ReodDai

True its not the best example but its what popped into my mind lol. But the point was to prove that more air into the engine and more air out of the engine wouldn't effect turbo lag as long as the manifold piping is the same size. Just because the port itself is bigger doesn't mean the piping afterwards is.

Your example is a good reason why you don't just port the exhaust =)

93BlackFD

i agree with both of you, but ReodDai, there are methods of exhaust porting that affect velocity and not necessarily flow...make sense?

you can take 1.3L of air and push it out a circle, a square, a triangle, etc....certain shapes will provide different flow characteristics...there's the secret

ReodDai

Yes I realize the geometry of the port and how the pulses leave the engine effect it as well. I was just generalizing =)

dubulup

I understand what you are trying to prove...but the thing I was getting hung up on is...the extra air coming into the motor. Let's look at idle first. So more air in the motor and more air out of the motor, fine...but where is this "more" air into the motor being created? The intake port alone is accomplishing this? It seems with a big intake port the motor isn't sucking as hard to get air in...so are you saying, it is sucking more air in without sucking as hard? Honestly I have no idea, so enlighten me. I know that with my streetported motor, I pull less vac at idle and have less fuel at idle than before.

I have plenty more questions...but I'll stop there, since I don't fully understand...I'm starting to confuse myself.

ReodDai

Agreed lol confused me as well =)
I understand what your saying as well. At idle the enlarged ports should cause it to have less vac and less fuel since the engine will still try to idle like it normally would Under load the engine *should* suck more than normal. However, I'll leave this to the experts since I don't have enough first handle knowledge to be discussing this lol.

93BlackFD

that's why i ditched the limited powerFC and went with a haltech

more tuning capabilities, and really simplifies the entire wiring/electrical system

ReodDai

I'm currectly trying to get a job at the local mazda dealership as a mechanic. There is a guy that works there that oddly enough knows how to work on rotaries and has been doing so for about 20 yrs. Need experience actually under the hood of these things.

atihun

You would slide the springs in afterwards; that is if I am understanding you correctly (for the apex seals).

93BlackFD

I told you I was meticulous

powdercoated the flywheel gloss black, then had it resurfaced

http://www.1131.net/pics/brian/clutc...l/DSCN1265.JPG

clutch and new pressure plate

http://www.1131.net/pics/brian/clutc...l/DSCN1267.JPG

all together

http://www.1131.net/pics/brian/clutc...l/DSCN1269.JPG

placing the bolts in a polisher right now

7-sins

So far so good, pics look beautiful and are getting me excited to pull apart my motor.

One main question:
I probably will be on the same budget, looks to be what $1380. Do you mind posting the breakdown of what you spent?

I have what I think should be a good core, Mazda reman with 12,000 miles... (120psi on front 100psi on rear). I guess that cuts out at least 500$

2nd Question:
Since you have the upgraded atkins 2mm solid corner seals does this mean your bridgeport will be comparable in engine life with a normal motor. By the way I love the porting done by Gotham, they look 100% professional.

93BlackFD

Yes, gotham racing has been very professional with me. Having experienced pineapple's customer service level, and gotham's- the email updates, progress pictures, and overall attitude is no comparison.

The size of the bridge itself is conservative, gotham racing took special care to pay attention to these sort of details, and yes the solid corner seals do increase reliability

I think it depends on how well you work your resources and what you are able to accomplish yourself. I do all of my own powdercoating, assembly, cleaning, clearancing, etc- I let professionals install bearings and resurface items, and I usually barter with my powdercoating services so my pricing would be off.

I will say that anyone can receive the same caliber service and pricing from ray crowe @ malloy mazda that I did

7-sins

Thanks for the quick response... one more question

Sorry for my ignorance but what specialty tools did you need for specing the motor out. In the pic I see:

Telescoping gauges (5/16" - 6")
Micrometer (0 - 1")
Feeler Gauge (32 blades)
Digital Caliper (6" .001acc)
Dial Indicator (.001" - 1")

Still not sure where the tap & die, grinding, carving, stamping tools, and magnetic base come in for the rebuild. I guess if a few bolts wouldn't come out then drill and tap, but the other stuff?

Choser

I've been reading this thread since the start... and I dont think I came across what you are going by to rebuild your motor. What sort of engine building experience do you have before this?

Because it looks interesting, something I may want to tackle myself eventually.

93BlackFD

I have never rebuilt an engine before-

I am going by the mazda manual for specifications and my friends and experts for advice

Tap/die grinding/carving, etc- all of that is for cleaning threads, cleaning gunk off rotors and irons, and the magnetic base is for supporting the dial indicator

The stamping tools are so that I can keep track of which part was where, and also put my name on the motor

You should order a video and watch it to see if rebuilding is right for you, I watched one a year or so ago and lost it...so I can't really say i'm using that as a "reference"

Sprockett

good job

villision

Nice

Ty

93BlackFD

looks like gotham will have the irons to me on saturday....i'm torn between a candy blue and chrome or a gloss black and chrome on the motor

maybe i should start a poll?

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

I found the FSM to be more helpful than the vid.

but i suppose 30 bucks or whatever isnt' bad if it saves someone's engine.

i did super glue my corner seals (had atkins 2 peice 2mm). It was a bitch. I had to use a table suface to keep them straight. Then i just used my finger nail to take off the excess super glue from the sides. About 70 percent of the time it would hold enough to get it into the housings.

you should be able to use a rubber band since you do put the springs in last on the apex seals.

I had 3/4 engine put together then a corner seal fell down my street port! That made me mad

i think only a few 3rd gen guys rebuild their engines themselves. When i did mine it was my frist engine rebuilt also.

good luck. You'll feel alot better knowing you build the engine and you should port it yourself next time -it's fun.

FD3RotorTurbo

iTrader: (1)

looks sweet man!!! quick question... i was going to take my engine out this summer and port it. is there a difference between the ports that pineapple and gothem do? cause i have heard that pinapple has really shitty customer service.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

i put the rubber band around with only the seals.

then lowered the housing half way over then cut it.

once it was on you can slip the apex springs in (short one first)

dubulup

I like where you were building that engine, props to the wife (if you have one) for letting that happen

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

hehehe

that's my dad's house My step mom didn't like it but she got over it (only took a couple of days).

used an old sub box to sit the engine on (since e shaft makes it ugly other wise). i think it worked good

93BlackFD

pineapple will not allow pics of their porting, but a few people have taken their pineapple motors apart after failures

i like how gotham sends me pictures, updates, and ships quick, i would not refer anyone to pineapple

FD3RotorTurbo

iTrader: (1)

damn that post makes me think twice about pineapple! thanks for the heads up!