Ok..so I took the 7 to a local import mechanic hoping that I would have the DP installed and kicking *** by the time I got back from work...NOT!

He had the car on the lift and noticed that the top bolt towards the front of the car was either missing or broken...there's just a hole there but the others are in place...

My question is...are these studs that are part of the exhaust or is it just a bolt that can be removed? I asked him about just using a generic bolt to replace it and he said he wouldn't want to use anything except a mazda bolt...what the **** is a mazda bolt!?

Also, to remove the DP top bolts do we have to remove the intake and hoses?

What's the best way to attack this thing?

Thanks guys

 

Oh yeah, and this guy procedes to tell me that if it's a stud that's broken in there the only option is to pull the engine and drill it out...that really doesn't seem right to me...

 

I was only able to get two of the four bolts in when I tried to instal the dp on my car. The mechanic that I went to just used a regular bolt into the manifold. However, my studs came out of the manifold. They didn't get stuck like yours.

I'm not sure if you "have" to remove the engine to remove the stud...Someone on this forum must haqve had this problem. it's pretty common.

John

 

Ouch. Here's hoping my install goes cleaner...

 

No, my install with the Pettit took me 3 hours but we did it. No problems with the bolts here.

 

You guys suk...I don't want to hear you had no problems...I want to hear "Hey!!! I had that same problem and THIS IS HOW I DID IT!"

Japandes>>>>> so does that mean that you only have two bolts holding on your turbo end of your DP?

 

First thing you need to tell your mechanic is that he needs to find out if that stud is broken off or if it came out and wasn't installed whenever the precat was removed. If it was removed and never replaced, consider yourself lucky, all you need to do is get a Mazda stud from the dealer or Mazdacomp if you're a member and replace it and put a new nut on the outside. I wouldn't recommend the bolt as that is kind of a last resort. If you want it done right, use Mazda parts, it's harder steel and made for exhaust temps (so they say...) If you have a stud that's broken off in the turbo manifold, you do have some work to do, but it's not as extreme as removing the engine. The turbo manifold will come off of the engine, and that's precisely what you have to do. Then you get an EZ Out and try to get that stud to back out. If you have to go this far, I recommend removing all 3 studs and replace each one of them in case you have to remove your downpipe in the future. That way you won't have to risk torquing off one of those studs and go through this again. Hell, while you're at it, if you have extra $$ and have been experiencing turbo problems and oil is leaking through your turbos, you can opt to send them off for a rebuild or buy used ones or even new ones. I am currently only running 3 nuts on 4 studs because to get the 4th one on would require about 3 separate hours or cutting the lower rear stud so a nut can fit between it and the downpipe. I would be more concerned with the upper front than the lower rear, but good luck and hope it turns out to be just putting a new stud in there!

Richard

 

Richard...

Thanks man...

How would I go about find that Mazda Part # for the studs.. Great advice by the way! Don't think I am going to go the whole turbo route...I just want it to last me till next summer when I replace the engine and go single...At least that's the plan so far...but definately going to look into replacing the all the studs...

Thanks

 

ohh... and I understand what a mazda bolt is now and why he would want to use that than just run to the hardware store

 

Check mazdaperformance.com for a parts catalog if you need the part number. Otherwise, call the dealer and they should know.

Don't mean to be rude but from what it sounds like, you really don't know much about repairs. You really should do some research and spend some more time on the forum. Taking your car to the mechanic is okay but you should learn more so you know what your mechanic is talking about.

 

djantlive
You are absolutely right!...I don't know DICK about repairs!...and I appreciat you not saying "use the search button ************!" like most people do...

But thanks for the links above...those will help...The main reason I posted a new thread like a crazed NewB is that my car is still at the dudes shop and he's talking about pulling my enging to back out a frikin stud...so I came here hoping I would get a quick response like eryone here was so kind in giving...

 

No problem dude, that's why we are all here. I rely on my fellow rotorites on their opinion and experience and I am never stingy about providing info on the little things that I know.

Don't be afraid to ask. Like I mentioned earlier, there is a lot of knowledge here so you can learn alot by just surfing the site everyday.

 

Did your pettit downpipe not come with mounting hardware? Mine came with 3 studs 3 nuts and an allen wrench head bolt that I had to cut to length.

Be sure to soak the studs with PB blaster if you decide to pull them.

 

I bought mine from the RX-7 sore...Nothing, I mean zilch came with it...I called and said "is this downpipe supposed to come with gaskets?" I was told to go buy liquid gasket...wtf? where did you buy yours from?

 

The diagnosis-----> The stud is broken off in there...so I am going to have him replace all four DP studs and turbo gaskets while it's off...can you think of anything else while all this crap is apart?

 

Now would be a good time to also go the right way in converting to non-sequential... but if you aren't too knowledgable about repairs and fabrication, just get the downpipe in and call it a day... Good luck to you and hope the mechanic doesn't hurt the turbos, lines, or actuators while taking them out... sounds to me like you should be sure he knows what he's doing if he wanted to remove the engine for a broken stud...

Richard

 

<<<<<but if you aren't too knowledgable about repairs and fabrication, just get the downpipe in and call it a day>>>>

That's great...a good laugh in a time of need...

The good thing is that he decides not to do it...he has a relative who is knowledgable in the world or rotary and turbo and has a better equiped shop so he decides that monday he's gonna send it to him...I couldn't agree with him more...But we just ordered new gaskets and all four studs which are going to take a frikin week to get here...

As for going sequential, which site would you recommend to show the mechanic to see if he can do the conversion?

I know, I should probably go search huh? But is one set of instructions better than another?

Thanks again...

 

Is the LIM gasket still paper? If so, get it replaced with a newer metal one. Most stock LIM gasket leak when you get over 75k miles. The intake leak causes high/fluctuation idle and may stall your car if it's bad enough. I think it's more work since you have to take the turbos off. However, if it's paper, it's very likely that you'll need to get it done sooner or later, especially if you plan on keeping the car for a long while.