3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
Sponsored by:

Parts suggestion for finalizing my build

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-06-10, 11:38 AM
  #1  
Rotary Freak

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
HardHitter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: US
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Parts suggestion for finalizing my build

So as some of you may know, my build of my FD is coming along and the engine is finally complete. Before I start to put the car back together, I want to do a few more upgrades.

Here is the car so far

2 Rotor Streetported Atkin seals 2mm Engine
Unorthodox Pulley Set
Ceramic Coated A-Spec 500R T4 Turbo
Ceramic Coated A-Spec Stainless Manifold
Ceramic Coated Upper and Lower Intake Manifolds
Greddy Type-RS BOV
Tial 44mm Wastegate
RE-A Dual-Tip Cat-Back Exhaust System
Ceramic Coated A-Spec Down Pipe
Ceramic Coated A-Spec Mid Pipe
RX-7Store V-Mount Intercooler Kit + Modified KOYO Radiator
Coolingmist Trunk mount water/meth injection kit
Apexi PowerFC and Commander and Datalogit
Greddy Throttlebody Elbow
FDNewbie Import Dual Oil Coolers w/ Black Setrab Cores
Supra TT fuel pump
550cc primary, 1300cc secondary injectors.
HKS Twin Power
Garfinkle Oilpan Brace
Exedy Clutch/flywheel
AEM Digital UEGO Air/Fuel Wideband Gauge
AEM Digital Tru Boost Gauge/Boost Controller
AEM Digital Fuel Pressure Gauge
AEM Digital Oil Pressure Gauge
AEM Digital Oil Temperature Gauge


Obviously when you look at this list, the one bottle neck is my fueling. So I'm looking to upgrade my fueling to be able to support up to 550rwhp although I will never bring the car to this power range. I'd like to have a safe running tune of around 450-475rwhp with water injection on pump. What kind of system would you guys suggest for the kit. I've been working with A-spec to see what they can put together with me, but also rx7store.net has a nice system with 850/1600 setup.

My builder said that I have an Exedy single plate ceramic clutch/flywheel that will only be good for around 375-400rwhp at most which is good, but since the engine is out, I rather get a setup that'll handle the possibility of 450-500rwhp so I don't have to go in and upgrade it later. What suggestions do you have for my clutch setup? The car is going to be a weekend warrior and used for just fun use to drive around. I MAY take it to the strip for a few runs, but I highly doubt I will.
Old 05-06-10, 01:07 PM
  #2  
Full Member

 
ShiftRX7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Milan, Italy
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
nothing on the suspension side? or you just forgot to put it on the list?
Old 05-06-10, 02:34 PM
  #3  
Rotary Freak

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
HardHitter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: US
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oh I forgot to talk about this but this is "phase 1" of my build consisting of just getting the engine and tuning all setup. Once all of that is squared away I will begin "phase 2" which will be all the other modifications, body, wheels, suspension, etc etc.
Old 05-07-10, 04:17 PM
  #4  
Still got it.

iTrader: (2)
 
Prometheus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Seattle, Washington
Posts: 1,687
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Pineapple Racing idler pulley (gives more surface contact on the eater pump pulley)

RE-Medy (spelling) CNC water pump (flows much better than OEM)

Vented oil catch can

engine torque damper

stiffer motor mounts

excessive LIM

Pineapple Racing Oil pan (larger capasity & baffled)

ducting

AtomicRex steering rack (if you choose to go manual)

if you want to retain power steering, look into having an aluminum power steering fluid tank made

IC bypass BOV (filtered) this will allow for even quicker spool. (I like synapse engineering BOV's & wastegates)

heat wrap your exhause system (downpipe & manifold) turbo blanket would be a great idea.

Heat isolation, not elimination is the key to making power with turbos (keep the heat in the turbo, and exhaust system, you will make more power.

Gauges??? Fuel & oil pressure, oil & water temp, egt
& AFR, boost, etc...

2x EGT probes (placed pre-turbo) digitally logged
Old 05-07-10, 04:20 PM
  #5  
Still got it.

iTrader: (2)
 
Prometheus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Seattle, Washington
Posts: 1,687
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Cant wait to see your car completed, you seem to have a really good taste in parts selection.

Keep us updated!
Old 05-07-10, 10:16 PM
  #6  
Original Gangster/Rotary!


iTrader: (213)
 
GoodfellaFD3S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Posts: 30,529
Received 539 Likes on 326 Posts
Thumbs up

Not a bad list below, my comments in bold

Originally Posted by Prometheus
Pineapple Racing idler pulley (gives more surface contact on the eater pump pulley) Or get a Tweak It Racing setup, PM Chadwick

RE-Medy (spelling) CNC water pump (flows much better than OEM) not sure this is needed, I road race my FD at 15+ psi boost and the stock water pump is more than adequate

Vented oil catch can yes

engine torque damper not needed IMO, stiffer motor mounts and a diff brace are sufficient.

stiffer motor mounts

excessive LIM

Pineapple Racing Oil pan (larger capasity & baffled) no oil level sender and cast means it is brittle, again not a necessity IMO

ducting VERY important, esp for your oil coolers (make sure you have two of them)

AtomicRex steering rack (if you choose to go manual) Maval is another option at a lower price point, I love mine

if you want to retain power steering, look into having an aluminum power steering fluid tank made

IC bypass BOV (filtered) this will allow for even quicker spool. (I like synapse engineering BOV's & wastegates)

heat wrap your exhause system (downpipe & manifold) turbo blanket would be a great idea. yes, and/or ceramic coating. check out the new DEI Titanium lava rock wrap

Heat isolation, not elimination is the key to making power with turbos (keep the heat in the turbo, and exhaust system, you will make more power. Yes

Gauges??? Fuel & oil pressure, oil & water temp, egt Yes
& AFR, boost, etc...

2x EGT probes (placed pre-turbo) digitally logged
As far as a clutch, i've been very happy with my Exedy cerametallic twin disc...... my current setup and power level is very very similar to your goals, you're sure you're not copying me ?
Old 05-07-10, 10:56 PM
  #7  
Wangan Junkie
iTrader: (11)
 
smog-guy707's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
fast reacting IAT sensor now that your intake manifold is out?
Old 05-08-10, 01:23 AM
  #8  
rotorhead

iTrader: (3)
 
arghx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: cold
Posts: 16,182
Received 429 Likes on 263 Posts
550whp goal is no joke. I would go with an FPR and top feed rails on the primary and secondary, with 1000cc injectors and the fuel rails run in parallel.
Old 05-08-10, 02:09 AM
  #9  
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (6)
 
BlowenByTwins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: DFW
Posts: 676
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Your injector sizes should be at least 850cc/1600cc (1000cc/1680cc would be even better)

You'll need a second Denso fuel pump to avoid maxing out a single pump.

It would be better to use 2 wastegates but if your dead set on going with the A-Spec manifold then your wastegate setup is fine.

The GReddy BOV is kind of small so either use 2 or get a bigger BOV like the Tial.

Your clutch should be fine, I believe it's rated to about 450rwtq and there usually conservative with those claims so you should good to go.

Don't worry about getting an aftermarket LIM, stock works fine.

Get a Fuel Pressure Regulator if you haven't already, either Weldon Racing or Aeromotive.


If this were me I would do a few things different but I would also be going for more than 550rwhp


-Matt
Old 05-08-10, 05:45 PM
  #10  
Rotary Freak

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
HardHitter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: US
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks guys, really looking forward to getting the car together.

Right now I want to concentrate on my fueling and clutch and then I'll do the other smaller parts.

I looked into the Xcessive LIM but really didn't see a need for it seeing that many people are running fine without it.

Turbo blanket I have, I am doing anything/everything I can in order to eliminate as much heat as I can from the engine/bay.

But again, I want to concentrate on making sure there is no bottle neck on the engine so fueling and clutch is my main concern.

So for fueling, does anyone know a setup that is being sold to go with?

http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/ultimatefuel.htm ???
Old 05-08-10, 05:56 PM
  #11  
Brappable.

iTrader: (6)
 
RLaoFD's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 1,384
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by smog-guy707
fast reacting IAT sensor now that your intake manifold is out?
Beat me to it!
Old 05-08-10, 06:48 PM
  #12  
Still got it.

iTrader: (2)
 
Prometheus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Seattle, Washington
Posts: 1,687
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by HardHitter
Thanks guys, really looking forward to getting the car together.

Right now I want to concentrate on my fueling and clutch and then I'll do the other smaller parts.

I looked into the Xcessive LIM but really didn't see a need for it seeing that many people are running fine without it.

Turbo blanket I have, I am doing anything/ everything I can in order to eliminate as much heat as I can from the engine/bay.

But again, I want to concentrate on making sure there is no bottle neck on the engine so fueling and clutch is my main concern.

So for fueling, does anyone know a setup that is being sold to go with?

http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/ultimatefuel.htm ???
one of the huge advantages of he excessive LIM is that it is a stationary flow modification (meaning it isn't something that will fail over time) it will give you better more even flow to the front & rear rotor housing (research the OEM LIM imbalance, it will change your mind)

with more even air flow, you get more common EGT's front/ rear

it also makes tuning easier, when you get to that point.

And. It has 2 additional injector bungs (so you don't have to have such a size spread in your injectors) smoother transitoining between primary/ secondary injectors will also aid in ease of tuning.

I suggest you go with ID injectors, but that's just me.

Also if you plan on such a size difference in injectors, I suggest you go with a larger FPD (Marren makes a nice unit)

take a look at the 90mm throttle body from dotTy works, it looks like a nice peace.

As for exhausting heat from the engine bay...

Vented hood up top (take your pick, just make sure it's functional)

vented splitter (a v-mount without a vent in the splitter underneath it will just dump the hot air from the radiator)

for your power goal (550 RWHP???)

you will need to do a lot of research on fuel systems.

Bosch 044

surge tank

inline collector (post filter, to lessen pulsation from the larger pump)

larger diameter fuel lines upnon the enginebay

top feed injectors with proper fuel rail.

More than just 4 injectors

FPR

what kind of fuel are you planning in running?

Spend some serious time on the dyno.

That is a lot of power to ask for, so soon in the game.

Might I suggest a more conservitive tune (400 RWHP) to start with.

Enjoy your car, before you blow it up.
Old 05-08-10, 07:29 PM
  #13  
Rotary Freak

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
HardHitter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: US
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
No I am definitely going to go with a conservative tune when I first get the car running. Like I said, my power goals is not 550rwhp at all. This is just a weekend car that I will drive for fun and take on cruises so reliability is going to take preference over max power. I think the most I'm going to want will be 450-475rwhp if that.

If I can have 450rwhp on a "safe" tune, I'd be really happy.
Old 05-08-10, 08:52 PM
  #14  
In the Garage

iTrader: (2)
 
oo7arkman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central FL
Posts: 1,406
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I think to hit close to the 450whp you will need the larger injectors everyone is mentioning.

http://www.rx7store.net/CJ_motorspor...age1%20inj.htm
or
http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/ultimatefuel.htm

I have the KG system, it works great just does not look as good as the CJ rails.. They were not out when I decided on the KG kit or I would have gotten them. I guess I am a bit vain..

As for your clutch, if you feel you need more holding power consider the exedy twin plate. It has great drivability and all the holding power you will need.

400whp in your FD is plenty of fun really. Your build is looking great! Keep up the good work!
Old 05-08-10, 09:23 PM
  #15  
Urban Combat Vet

iTrader: (16)
 
Sgtblue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mid-west
Posts: 12,023
Received 866 Likes on 615 Posts
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Not a bad list below, my comments in bold
Pineapple Racing idler pulley (gives more surface contact on the water pump pulley) Or get a Tweak It Racing setup, PM Chadwick

engine torque damper not needed IMO, stiffer motor mounts and a diff brace are sufficient.
^Agree on both. Better set-up IMO and you'll also save money.
Old 05-08-10, 11:10 PM
  #16  
Original Gangster/Rotary!


iTrader: (213)
 
GoodfellaFD3S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Posts: 30,529
Received 539 Likes on 326 Posts
I glossed over the fuel system...... I have 870 and 1680, you'll need something similar to exceed 450ish. Also as mentioned a lone Supra TT pump won't cut it. Either run two or you can do what I did, install a single Apex'i BNR fuel pump.

Re: the GZ LIM, it's worth every penny. Modding your car based on 'well, other people are running fine without it' isn't the best idea

Also, Atkins apex seals? How did you decide on those? RA or ALS would have been a better choice based on what I've heard from talking to some high powered guys who had bad experiences w/the atkins apex seals.
Old 05-09-10, 12:50 AM
  #17  
Still got it.

iTrader: (2)
 
Prometheus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Seattle, Washington
Posts: 1,687
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
I didn't want to say anything about the atkins seals (since it's a done deal)

atkins in general is sub-par (parts & porting)

Iannetti Ceramic Apex Seals are the only non-metalic seals I'd ever think of putting in my engine.

They are smoother than the NRS seals and lighter than the RA seals
Old 05-09-10, 12:53 AM
  #18  
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (6)
 
BlowenByTwins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: DFW
Posts: 676
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Also, Atkins apex seals? How did you decide on those? RA or ALS would have been a better choice based on what I've heard from talking to some high powered guys who had bad experiences w/the atkins apex seals.
+1

I use RA in my FD.
Old 05-09-10, 03:12 AM
  #19  
Rotary Freak

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
HardHitter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: US
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
As far as my seals go, I went with what my builder (Howard Coleman) said would work. I am comfortable in my builder and his ability and I want him to be confident in what he is putting into the engine. He gave me the option to use other seals, but he has had plenty of work/success with these seals and I trust him with all his decisions.

Why is the CJ kit so much more than the RX7store kit?
Old 05-09-10, 08:21 AM
  #20  
Original Gangster/Rotary!


iTrader: (213)
 
GoodfellaFD3S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Posts: 30,529
Received 539 Likes on 326 Posts
RX7store=KG Parts kit. I am running Keith's setup and very happy with it. It's functional and I've had zero problems.

Buuuut, I've also installed the CJ kit on a few customer cars, and it's damn sexy. Boner time when you open the box and handle the parts
Old 05-09-10, 09:06 AM
  #21  
In the Garage

iTrader: (2)
 
oo7arkman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central FL
Posts: 1,406
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
^Bingo. The KG kit works great. The Cj kit is more just b/c of the fancy mill work and design. Had it been available I prolly would have dropped the cash on it, but it wasn't and I am happy with the KG.

Damn, now that you are mentioning this about the fuel pump maybe I need to look at mine as well. Rich, didn't you do a writeup on your Apex'i pump install? Your thoughts on it so far?
Old 05-09-10, 02:34 PM
  #22  
Rotary Freak

Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
HardHitter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: US
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
How much/where is this Apex'i BNR fuel pump?
Old 05-10-10, 11:50 PM
  #23  
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (6)
 
BlowenByTwins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: DFW
Posts: 676
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Apex'i BNR fuel pump.
As in the Skyline fuel pump?
Old 05-11-10, 12:57 AM
  #24  
Still got it.

iTrader: (2)
 
Prometheus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Seattle, Washington
Posts: 1,687
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Yes, the skyline pump
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Azevedo
Other Engine Conversions - non V-8
26
03-01-19 09:19 PM
rotor_veux
Build Threads
46
06-12-18 10:39 AM



Quick Reply: Parts suggestion for finalizing my build



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:52 AM.