FDSeoul

iTrader: (8)

+1 100% GOOD luck with your mods. people tend to trash talk with out fully understanding the system, and for their lack of understanding and patience they tend to resolve it by mods after mods and the end result is a bad experience.(blown motor)*lazy *** people!!!***

zenofspeed

iTrader: (1)

My experience is only about 6 weeks long with the FD but here it is:

I bought a pristine 95 running sequential. The vacuum hoses were all recently done by Gotham. Ported wastegates and 310rwhp.

The first week of driving, the car was amazing. Gobs of power from 2k and up. The transition was incredibly smooooooth. Not a surprise at all. Perfect boost pattern of 13-11-13. Really, it was so smooth it felt like a big N/A. I was amazed.

By the second tank of gas everything changed. Boost pattern went to 11-6-13 then fell off to 11..

The transition became way more violent and threw you back in the seat, which was fun, but NOT GOOD for accelerating through turns.

I took the car to one of the better shops in my area who knows rotary motors. They couldn't find anything wrong (not seq experts) so it has been the same ever since. I TOTALLY UNDERSTAND why people drop the seq system. There is no support for the technology.. I'll probably go single (something smallish like a RX6 or T3 35R.) Then I'll be my own support.

I don't have the time to learn to work on the seq system, especially when I can already work on single systems myself. The other reason to remove that nest, is the heat dissipation and engine bay clutter.

Regarding Non-seq twins.. I wouldn't. Downsides of the single, with some downsides of the twins also. I see no real advantage of the twins over a well matched single. If you do all those "spool" mods, you can have one hell of a responsive single as well.. Reduce weight, clutter, heat, moving parts, yay..

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

That's because they don't do anything. They post a half-complete description of the problem, then expect someone else to spit out a 5 minute fix. It doesn't work like that. It's an involved process. To really eliminate the problems, you need a vacuum/pressure pump and remove the rats nest for a component-by-component inspection, then put it all back together. Or you need to take a tee fitting and do a series of tests on the road to probe for which part of the system isn't operating properly. Anything less is a series of guesses. It's not an expensive problem to solve, just time consuming.

Yep, which is why replacing the vacuum hoses alone is asking for trouble. Increasing boost above 10psi also provides more reason for issues.

I'll argue that a full sequential conversion is just as difficult/expensive as going through the entire sequential system to fix it.

FDSeoul

iTrader: (8)

+1 People are so fast to bitch and complain about the system they know jack **** about!!!! People learn the system and make smart conscious statements

Snowblind113

I purchased my car partially dissassembled, not knowing where anything went (mind you i had the workshop manual to help). The car is completely stock and I have had to work on the rats nest/sequential setup. I have replaced the trans fluid with mt90, new fuel filter, o2 sensor, knock sensor, battery, coolant hoses, and hose techniques vacuum lines for the rats nest.

All said and done it was a couple day project and plenty of time referencing vacuum diagrams and the workshop manual. Having said that I am amazed at the level of horror I have read on these forums regarding the sequential setup. I am sure a single setup is much easier to maintain and own but having a sequential setup is not that bad as far comprehending what is beneath your hood. Once you get your hands on what you are dealing with it really isnt that bad.

A grain of patience and a bit of going through everything step by step. I have had a much more difficult time figuring out why I cannot get my 'add coolant' light to stop buzzing and that has seriously put a strain on me in comparison to the vacuum lines. Electrical systems suck, and your not getting rid of that in your FD.

FDSeoul

iTrader: (8)

nice to read things like this. this is my exact point. Lazy *** people that dont pay their due and just talk smack about any system in this case the twins (seq)!!! lol
good luck on the rest of the job!!!

dhays

iTrader: (1)

Unless you have the ability, tools, and inclination to learn the sequential system and then troubleshoot it, time consuming=expensive. I've spent $500 so far with a good rotary mechanic to try and track down secondary boost problems on my stock system. I'm losing 2-3 psi of boost at high rpms. At this point, I'm not going to worry about it.

Some day after I've learned more about the system, I may make that a winter's project. The problem however, is to dig through the control system to find the problem, it would be very easy for me to create other problems. I do know that if I ever start replacing the hoses in the rats nest, I'm going to use as many Mazda hoses as I can. Many are preformed and have the right pills in place already. They may not be as pretty as the blue silicone there now, but much less chance of me screwing it up in the process.

thewird

iTrader: (8)

FD's take a few heat cycles to REALLY top off the coolant, so it may just be that. So if you haven't already top it off, run it for a while (driving), let it fully cool down, top it off when cold, and repeat a few times.

thewird

duwacker69

Yeah "argh" I know they are smaller, and I still need some kind of write up for the bre engine. Some day soon I would like to get some BNR's or even the fd ones. I would be interested in a set if anyone out ther wants to part with em. So how bout that write up peoples?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

You don't need to know a lot about how the system works. You just need to be able to take it apart, test the components, and reassemble per the diagrams. $500 will buy you a vacuum pump, all the silicone you'll ever need, and several replacement solenoids. If you buy some low mileage used rats nest parts you'll get a whole lot more spares.


The Mazda hoses are not a bad choice, but I wouldn't expect them to work reliably past, say 40k. By that point they get fairly hard and are more prone to working loose.

FYI, decreasing boost at high rpm is considered normal. It's also most frequently attributed to increased exhaust restriction.

Dave

dhays

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, but you see that is my problem. As you may have noticed from some of my past questions and predicaments, I'm missing some basic genetic material when it comes to mechanics. Take apart and reassemble is the tough part for me. I can read a manual and a diagram just fine, put a wrench in my hand and I'm a danger to an automobile.

40k would be a lot of years for me...

FDSeoul

iTrader: (8)

You have a great valid point, we are not all mechanically inclined especially when it comes to working on fd's. however if you can buddy up with someone who has a 3rd gen from a local club meet and make it a team project while sharing a cold brew together the issues one person might face may be dealt with ease.( 2 heads are always better than 1)

Of course the twins are not the easiest of them all but, once you take a crack at the vac system and read prior to attacking the job it's really not that hard. each solenoid and each line has a purpose and function. once you address that issue you are eliminating most of the damn pain in the *** system in order to truly enjoy the fd.

The 3rd gen for me( running seq. turbo) has been one of the most challenging and enjoyable car ever. take the time and learn the turbo system is the only way you will learn to fully enjoy this rotary rocket.

dhays

iTrader: (1)

I do like the seq twins. I've not driven a non-seq twin, but from the descriptions, I'd really miss the boost at the lower rpms. As it is, my stock system gives me 10-12 psi very early, as low as 1500-2000 rpm. That is very nice for general street driving as well as autocross.

FDSeoul

iTrader: (8)

+1 they are super and there is no better setup as far as my needs go (canyon carving here in San Diego on the weekends) I am always in boost. very little to no lag what so ever.

theorie

iTrader: (31)

expensive? my friend and i did my non-seq and it didn't cost a dime.

do it right the once and you won't have worry about it later

i love how you ignorantly accuse others of being ignorant! i know the seq system very well after tearing my motor apart several times for various other repairs. i went non-seq because i wanted to make more reliable power without spending a ****-ton of money. seq is great if you want to keep stock boost levels, but it's not as reliable and that's not what i was looking for. i'm also sure there are plenty of seq-guru's who have gone non-seq for various reasons.

FDSeoul

iTrader: (8)

^^^^ wow easy there cowboy!!! i must of touched a nerve there!!!! unlike yourself i don't waste countless hours rebuilding my motor and or stock twins nor complaining much about anything. I'm to damn busy driving and enjoying my Fd in the canyons on the weekend.

here is the evidence https://www.rx7club.com/west-rx-7-forum-193/sd-people-going-pie-run-hitlers-bday-april-20th-742404/page18/

FDSeoul

iTrader: (8)

you must be getting over charged by your mechanic!!!! in what context are you referring to pending a **** ton of $$$. How much are vac line running these days or solenoids for that matter.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

A vacuum hose job on a stock car is time consuming and thus not cheap. Most shops will charge around 400-500 labor plus the silicone vacuum hose kit.

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

I honestly don't understand why people will opt for a full non-seq conversion over a working sequential system.

Mine came with the silicone hose replacement already in and, aside from the primary turbo going bad, I've never had a problem with it. It's my understanding that you *really* don't make more peak HP by going non-seq.

If you're really tired of the stock system than why not just make the upgrade, correctly, and switch to a single?

I thought it was understood that these car's aren't for cheap wads..

Hell, if I can afford to keep this thing running correctly, being Enlisted in the military, than all you young/established professionals should find it simple!

Hitokiri_Gensai

iTrader: (2)

personally, ive pulled the sequential system apart a couple times, solenoids and hoses needed to be replaced, and it wasnt simple to say the least, took three days to get done.

Personally, i love the feel of the sequentials, but everytime ive been in there replacing crap ive had problems with the system. PERSONALLY, i like the simplicity of the non sequential twins and the idea of it being more reliable, and before any of your go flipping out on me, i mean reliable in the sense that there's less to go wrong. I know there are guys here who have been running on the same solenoids and hoses for 10+ years, so im not gonna start an arguement about it.

did i say personally enough? xD OPINIONS PEOPLE, OPINIONS! NOT FACTS

theorie

iTrader: (31)

goodfella - well stated.

anyway, sd93fd3s - i do all the work on my car myself actually, usually with the assistance from my friend/neighbor so i really just pay for parts and the use of my friends shop/tools. the exception of this is when i had Rotary Res. rebuild my short-block with 3mm seals & a port job.

i bought an FD that was abused and needed work, i don't even live in the same state where i keep it (i live in NYC, i keep my FD in FL). it's more of a project car for me.

like i said before, i like the simplicity of non-seq. i only have about 8 vac hoses on my motor now. i can tear it down to the short block in the matter of an hour or two haha. try doing that with the full seq setup in place.

you've stated your OPINION that you like the seq system better. what are you trying to prove? all people have been saying is that the non-seq setup is greatly more simple than stock-seq (FACT) and that it is easier to make more reliable power with non-seq (FACT).

search the 3rd gen section for "boost problem"
https://www.rx7club.com/search.php?searchid=5189431
i guarantee 90% of those are regarding the stock-seq system.

Warren Zock

My opinon is mostly basied on my luck but here it is.

I got my car in may had it shipped from japan. the first and only other owner was a Mazda employee and worked with the race team making sure parts and cars were where they needed to be. As such any part that had a habit of dieing under race conditions was replaced. came with the 2002 turbos and a silicone job. i boost to 16 psi without trouble and the first turbo starts spool at 1200 rpm. so just after idle. never had a problem.

if the work is done right its fool proof. look at the later models and see the differences between yours and those. fix those differences and your pretty safe to beat the hell out of your car.

G's 3rd Gen

iTrader: (11)

Anyone who gets aggravated about how much better and more fun (da da da da da) a sequential is to drive over a properly done non set-up needs to come ride w/ me. I have owned and experienced both at all levels of modifications in the past 12 years. Non- done right seems the way to go for pros than cons. If you think non-sequential is laggy it's not set-up right. G

FDSeoul

iTrader: (8)

G's 3rd gen---- sounds like you have a great set up there!!!. when do you hit your boost(rpm range) and where in the range do you top off.

phantom works

iTrader: (3)

I've been running full non-sequential for almost a year and I would never go back.
Its nice to have complete boost control with no issues and the lag is not that bad.
My engine is ported as well as the wastegate and full 3in exhaust so I'm not experiencing a lot of lag.
It might not be for everyone but I'm glad I did it.
+1 for the conversion!