jayscoobs

iTrader: (8)

Yeah true, I think I might just go with a chipped ecu for now. I still need to find a proper constant 12v for my gauges. I'm not good with multimeter since I blew a fuse last time. I think I want to move my gauges to the center speaker but I don't think my sensors will reach haha.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

and as far as getting bad gas and racing... buy containers of your own gas and only use it when you go racing. $100+ a tank is cheaper than 5 blown motors.

Yes, that is what I am thinking. I did have one of those TII motors that lasted a good while because I only used it for racing and added 5 gallons 116 leaded to the tank every time. It eventually died when one of the EGT probes came apart and pinched a corner seal. I will go back to that and see what I can break without the help of detonation.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

water injection

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

Fix everything that needs to be fixed first. After that, buy a PowerFC or something similar as your first performance modification.

I have seen way to many FD piles of crap driving around and it always is a result of people with limited financial resources buying things like intercooler, exhaust and body kit instead of fixing bushings, AST, and wire harness. Then they turn up the boost and end up with a shell full of bad parts.

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

Prioritize what you want to do with the car , and as you drive it what you would like the car to do better.

but I would invest in a Wide band once you start modding.

jayscoobs

iTrader: (8)

All maintenance is done with the car and up to date. Other than those bushings cuz they just started clunking. Still small stuff that has to be done thats more cosmetic than engine related.

Im fine with the power levels for now. I just hate that stock airbox cuz its a pain to remove and put back in. I mainly wanted a Power FC to monitor everything engine related.

Can someone point me to a good Constant 12V source? Last time I poked around with a multimeter I blew fuses. My gauges need switched and constant 12V. I can tap into cig lighter? But dash has to come out right?

jayscoobs

iTrader: (8)

Oh yeah since we on the subject. I'm just planning on a M2 ecu or Pettit and what would be the mods for it? Catback, downpipe, intake, intercooler? Also upgraded fuel pump? Also need boost controller?

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

How consistant do you need it to be ? Under your left kick panel there is the main fuse box . Use one of those it gets fed from the ignition . it will be constantly on aslong as your key is in..

jayscoobs

iTrader: (8)

Gauges require a switched ignition 12v which I used at the fuse block as well as a constant always on with the battery.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

I suggest not going with a chipped ecu. save the money to buy the powerFC.

Only do things once IMO. Saves time and money.

If you think you are pushing the stock ECU with what you want to install, don't install it till you collect all the right parts. I think its more dangerous to run a modified car on a stock ecu than it is to modify the car and run the powerFC and tune it.

jayscoobs

iTrader: (8)

Only thing that's holding me back from a power fc is no knock retard. The monitoring functions are nice but I'd hate to stare at the screen a lot. Much easier to read dials from peripheral view than looking at digital.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The M2 ECU is a little more reserved than the Pettit. You can run full bolt-on's with the Pettit, and the Limited version will have fuel cut at 14.7. The key is keeping your boost in check (but that's no different than the requirements of any other ECU).

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

I guess I should chime in here and give my opinion about this.

As a mechanic, as a friend and as a FD owner. Keeping the car/engine running happy is my #1 priority.

Noises and other issues can come later. Therefore my conclusion to this is get a PFC to make sure the engine is spot on and running healthy FIRST, then save up for other things like fixing the bushings and any other upgrades.

TBH, when you're driving you will MOST likely not gonna read your "knock". But more so on Boost. Keep an eye on your boost/water temp would be something I personally choose over any other monitors.

1) Boost, you dont want to push it if it's spiking and over boost = apex seal failure.
2) Water temp, make sure you're up to temp before boosting and make sure your engine does not over heat in case a lose of coolant situation which can result rupture coolant seal.

Again, I prioritize my engine over anything else OTHER than safety issues that you will need to adjust to right away.

DO NOT WASTE MONEY on getting a chipped ECU like another member suggested. DO THE JOB ONCE and ONLY ONCE. <--- Work smart, not hard!

There you go, now think about it and make a decision ;-).

-Eric

jayscoobs

iTrader: (8)

I was waiting for you to chime in lol. I guess knock isn't so bad since I was planning on water injection. One issue that I just remembered is the event of a really cold night, does the base map on a power fc adjust the maps for cold temps? I can't remember but I think I saw something where you need seperate maps for the cold nights and altitude changes? But I guess it wouldn't matter anyways because base map is rich to begin with?

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

Yes, it will adjust for colder weather as long as the car is in "close loop" for the O2 sensor monitor to kick in.

I believe the PFC will use the IAT sensor readings and adjust the map accordingly. Otherwise why would we even need that damn sensor right?

-Eric

jayscoobs

iTrader: (8)

Actually the o2 sensor is what I remember. Because on Raymond's thread it says to disable o2 feedback. Which would give the ecu no AFR readings correct?