True. You can run a muffler in the midpipe or even a hi-flow cat without harming spool time too much, but you do have to get rid of the stock cats.

Because the wastegate mod is intended to help control boost creep, not improve spooling time. It's not a requirement for non-sequential, but it is something you should probably do while you've got the turbos apart rather than wishing you'd done it later.

For lack of more data, I'll concede this, but as I've stated, that's not the case in my experience. I've seen absolutely nothing that would indicate that the next car I converted (if I was ever stupid enough to volunteer to work on another rotary FD) wouldn't achieve the same results.

I've stated on at least one occasion that if I had a properly working sequential system, I'd leave it alone. I also think I've been fair and honest over the years about reporting the details that I know about non-sequential cars. Certainly not misleading.

Misleading is telling someone that the rotary engine is perfectly reliable if you just change the oil regularly.

Possibly. But you have to understand that from my point of view, something must have been different or "wrong" with the configurations of those cars. I haven't seen anyone with a properly converted car fail to get good results.

OK, then include the 7+ non-sequential cars that did make full boost by 3,500 rpm in your spiel next time instead of just including the 2 that didn't. It's fairly obvious that you're a strong supporter of the sequential configuration. Don't let it bias your presentation of the facts.

If that's what you want to call it. The porting is a theory until proven, but larger ports can hurt low-end power in piston engines, so it's certainly a valid theory. FMICs do add pressure drop in most cases, so that's valid as well. Honestly, I hadn't given it much thought until you mentioned those mods because I've never seen non-sequential not work when "done properly" before.

No, Damon and Keith like me too. Or at least I think they do...

However, you should know by now that I don't take **** (or what I perceive as taking ****) from anyone, regardless of who they are. I almost feel like you're arguing with me just for the sake of argument, or for the sake of semantics. I understand what you're saying. I'm not getting the feeling that you're listening to me, though.

Do you understand my frustration with you or why I compared you to Matty? It's a measure of your frustration that you felt you had to "threaten" me with the implied withdrawal of your support, so I guess we're even.

I am sharing information, but you're harping on semantics about "misleading" statements, when much of what you've posted is equally misleading by your own definition.

I'm done. Personally, I don't care if people are sequential, non-sequential, or shove their engines up their asses. I don't have an agenda here, not even to convince people to convert to V8s. Do what you want to with your own car, and take my experience for what it's worth, which seems to be jack-**** these days.

 

Jim, this forum is full of people who have done the mod and don't see full boost until closer to 4000 rpms rather than 3500 rpms. They just aren't posting threads saying "I gotta brag, Non-Sequential mod".

That's is the problem right there. You are saying that because you haven't seen it, it doesn't exist (i.e. because the modification didn't yield the same results, they didn't do it right). I, on the other hand, and conceding that boost levels can be achieved at the lower rpm range, given specific setups (i.e. not all setups can/will produce boost at lower levels).

Jim, I think you need to re-read how this tread evolved. You asked for the configurations of the 2 cars which said didn't make that much boost that low. Once again, I never said it wasn't possible.

Jim, once again, it's the other way around. You aren't listening to anyone else. You are solely set on proving points to which I (or anyone else) never even tried to disprove. This is why you are frustrated as you are talking about something completely different. You are stuck on saying "it work and it can be done", while I'm saying "I have 2 configurations that didn't yield the same results. Let see what configurations do yield the good results so people can know what to expect when they do the modification on their car."

Implied withdrawaw of support? No, that was saying more along the lines of "why bite the hand that feeds you?". If I am a supporter, then why treat me like I'm not? Jim, you really need to take a step back from the keyboard sometimes before you post. No one was attacking you in thread so there was no need for one from you. If you didn't want to continue with the discussion, you can simply stop replying. Just because someone doesn't agree with you doesn't mean you are required to insult them.

How is it misleading? I posted 2 known configurations that didn't yield the same results and tried to find reason why. Both cars were converted from and to seq with perfect boost patterns (before and after). All it takes is one case to disprove a theory and there are several on the forum (if you want to search for them, but that's not really the point of this discussion).

 

my car is louder than my friends FD and im non seq lol

btw, how can you get boost starting at 2500rpm?

damn, ill be lucky to hit boost as early as 4000rpm..i need to check into that..

 

What is your current setup?

 

This NS setup utilizes a Thunderbird Super Coupe I/C converted to A2L, Haltech E6K, and streetport. It has run a 12.0 1/4 mi. and is blazingly fast everywhere on the tach. I don't think that can be done reliabily and consistently with sequentials or with a stock ECU.

 

Mahjik, Haven't you learn by now? Jimlab can't lose.

 

This is my problem with Jim, I'm just not as patient and articulate as you are Mahjik. For me it all started with the paint thread, Jim just started throwing insults around.

No need for insults here, I know I could work on that also...

 

I'm very interested in what your thoughts are on this subject. On the non-sequential turbo debate that is.

 

stock ports, intake, upgraded smic, dp, stock cat, 3 inch exhaust, stock twins..

 

Ah, it's most likely that stock cat which is hurting your non-seq performance.

 

on the spool up? or the overall performance over sequential?

 

i had a feeling it was that

when i get a pfc, then ill get a high flow cat..i guess for now i have to deal with getting beaten by all cars in city driving..

 

Yeah regarding the spool up time. Just curious on your experiences and what you actually prefer for street cars.

Thanks,
M-

 

WOW! I had no clue this would happen. Just so everyone knows, now that I've had a few days to drive this monster I've built.

The motor has only 20k on the clock
9.5lb flywheel, stock clutch
NO emissions
FULL 3" exhaust (very LOUD)
Stock size tires, rims
Stock intercooler
P/S & A/C
No omp (i premix)

Since I've had some time to drive this thing I've noticed: Kinda slow in the lower rev range( I don't stay there much), When I do hit boost its a strong smooth push (hand of god sorta thing). As It has gotten colder I've not only started spiking over 6k but It happens so fast I hit fuel cut. Which Ive been using as my shift point. Bad idea I think. I don't believe I have enough back pressure because I ground the hell out of that wastegate. I never want to have to pull that motor for anything again If I can help it.

The power has already gone to my head ( wanting to just drift every corner,I'll jump on anything that even looks like it'll rev at me) I got the attention of the wrong kind yesterday. Yep I got a SPEEDING ticket! I didn't make a big deal out of it. I was. I couldn't help it!
I promise I'll slow down. Besides it's now my daily and it cost me $43.00 to fill up the other day!!!! I'll get the Miata up and running soon.

Anyway Just giving you guys a heads up. Can't wait till the Deals Gap run.

 

Ok, I am in need of a little advice. I am in the market for an intercooler, and so far I would like to get a FMIC, however I am running non sequential and what I have read is that it might cause more lag. Please point out some of the tradeoffs between a SMIC and FMIC with non seq. (sorry to go on a tangent, but i am really on the fence.)

And also, I know that a FMIC does interfere with the water temperature; is that really a lot to worry about and is there any way to get a little more airflow to the radiator with a FMIC.

I have a PFC, commander and datalogit if that helps. No porting and full exhaust and intake.

 

I just got my 99's and this thread is making me wonder about converting them, even though I will have a cat and stock ecu for a while.

What are your mods and what max psi are you running? When does your max psi and big pull start coming on?

Do you still have your UIM butterflies installed?


Also, who knows for sure if the 99' 280 hp twins have a larger diameter wastegate flapper? Does it even need to be ported for running less than 14 psi? I am using 2 ball and spring MBC's and have no spike at all with 10psi.

 

OK, I gotta brag too! I banged both of your sisters in the bathtub last night!!! Damnnnn man, you need to tell those two to be a little more quiet next time!

 

Can you point me to a non-sequental how to? I cant seem to find a damn write up on it

 

Pretty much I used this diagram from one of the other guys and spend a hell of a lot of time. Let me see if I can find the write up and Ill post back.

 

Hey bio3m, I better ask do you need emmissions? There is a little difference. B/c all I did was tear out EVERY vac line and emission control device. Broke out the control door that is in the manifold BETWEEN the turbos and block. Tapped the hole left behind put in a IRON pipe cap.

Ported the wastegate door almost until the flapper door fell in.(1.25") This is the sucky part b/c the turbos need to be taken apart. If you are not carefull you WILL break the bolts that hold the turbo manifold caseing together. Pictures of this can be seen on a writeup done by areXseven on this forum. https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ebuild+writeup
If the link doesn't work just look for( turbo rebuild writeup) in the 3rd gen section.
I shouldn't do this as a write up so just do alot of searches. I did mine based on about 10 different writeups.

It's easy it just takes FOREVER. To do it right that is. I think Im down to 3or 4 vac lines though.

 

I'd like to know as well

 

You can improve the spool up lag by advancing the timing in those area by a few degrees. It usually helps by at least 300-400rpm. If you look at the stock PFC sequential timing, it's pretty retarded for anything below 4krpm. I personally like sequential myself but I haven't had a car that runs sequential for awhile. Besides, the 20B makes more than enough torque at the low-end to compensate for the sequential setup from a 13B.

 

I hinted at this in my recent (rip) thread. On another stock turbo'd car, adding more initial advance, and tapering it out with boost made a huge improvement in initial response. Felt more like a V6 than a laggy turbo 4. Good tip. Timing, moderate smic, and free exhaust are all winners when reducing lag. Wonder about 99 spec t's and mild street port?

 

wow good info thanks!


^^ha ha, ok to fix the lag get a 20B!

 

Oh yea, one more thing, advancing too much timing at lower rpm can/will cause the side seals to get stuck. From what I have seen, the rotor wobbles around from detonation (not hearable in most cases) and causes the side of the rotor to hit the iron housing causing the side seals to get stuck but usually doesn't create enough detonation to break the apex seals. This is from an extreme case (15-20 degrees more than usually).