Lemonfresh

iTrader: (1)

I have an oil leak. This is my first endeavor into my car. I have had it for about 4 weeks now. Its a 94 touring with 98k. Pretty sure its the original motor. I have been scouring the forum and thanks to you guys I am confident enough to fix her up. I have gotten under the beast and there is oil all over the transmission cover and the back part of the sub frame. I have looked around and there is oil coming from the motor mounts and there is oil inside the bell housing (I checked the access panel, pretty sure its the main seal leaking as it looks like motor oil and there is no leak under the input shaft on the tranny). The entire oil pan seal seems to have a film of oil around it. So I am going to drop the tranny, install a new Main seal and reseal the oil pan. While I am in there I am also going to install a new pilot bearing and throwout bearing and check out the clutch and flywheel. For good measure I am going to put a new o-ring around the oil level sensor. I am still thinking about whether or not to spring for the Noltec motor mounts or oil pan brace. Are they really worth it? Is there anything else I should do while I have the subframe off, tranny out and the oil pan off?

Thanks for you help,
Mat

Smitter

definetly do the oil pan brace, it is a must or the oil pan will eventually begin to leak again no matter how well u seal it.

not sure about Noltec mounts specifically but generally aftermarket mounts will transfer some vibration through the car due to there stiffness and the way they mount, they do however last longer and provide a more secure base for the engine. that is nice if u plan on making big hp #s

Hughba

Hey mate. I too have a similar leak - sounds like yours might be the oil pan also. It's pretty common. I've gone the banzai-racing brace. Looks really schmick. Once you get started you'll realise it's worth trying to avoid the leak occuring again :p. There's heaps of info out there on this job.

GL

mgoddard1

Don't forget to change the o-ring around the rear stationary gear while your transmission is out. Search the forum and you'll find the procedure for correctly removing and reinstalling the rear stationary gear. Basically you have to set the motor at TDC so that the rear rotor won't slip when you pull the rear stationary gear out. If it slips you're screwed. A new rear main seal won't do you any good if the rear stationary gear is leaking behind it.