I had just got my FD last Weds, and I have finally had some time to check out the oil leak first had, so far the oil was top off on Weds and it is showing no signs of "excessive" oil leaking (drove approx 350 miles, with maybe 7-8 short burst of boost).


I have included some pics, basically to get you advice of how soon I should atatend to the oil leak ( I live in PA so winter is around the corner). I guess if I just check the oil consistantly I could drive it til hibernation. As for the pics, before I took them the cross member was cover with a good flim of oil with little droplets forming. The under side of the car has a decent coat of oil from the leak, which from the records I have has been leaking for about 3-4 years. The oil pan was servced once, but I guess it did not fix it. Also if this helps with the severity, while on the freeway (or load) oil will ever so slightly keep back up on the bumper and you can smell oil burning from hitting the exhaust.

I also include pics of oil on the turbo comprssor housings, is this normal? ANd how much of a problem might this be? If this helps at all, I have a boost guage and they boost the normal 10-8-10 (sometimes higher when both in full boost, highet I saw was close to 12). Which maybe do the running a downpipe and cat back.

Lastly, I noticed on the front cover near the AC/PS bracket plack writing, whihc looks like R1-2-D-6, anyone knows what this means or is?

Well here are the pics, I would really appreciate any and all advice!

 

Once there is so much oil on the bottom of the engine, it is difficult to tell where the leak is actually coming from. The first thing I would do is to get some heavy duty degreaser and really clean the engine and undercarage off. Run the car around for a little while afterwards and then go back under and look for the leaks. Here is the short list of good places to check for leaks:

1 - oil filter pedistal (the o-rings tend to leak)

2 - oil pan (of course)

3 - motor mounts (tough to differentiate from a pan leak)

4 - rear main seal (check inside the access panel on the bottom of the bell housing)

5 - turbo oil lines.

You can also get some of that oil dye that shows up under black light and use it to trace the leak.

Good luck,

-bill

 

Thanks!

I Suppose I can get that dye at any auto arts store? Is it harmful to the motor using the dye? How long after should I check? Also after I clean the undertray, should I reinstall it or leave it off?

 

You definately want to reinstall the undertray, it helps push air through the radiator. If it's not there, the air will just escape downwards without flowing through the radiator.

BUT...for the purposes of trying to find your oil leak, I'd take it off and clean it, then clean the undercarriage and do a short drive to get the oil moving and through your leak without the untertray, then back home and put her up to have a look. Once you find the leak you can put the tray back on.

 

Not to say that Wrankin is incorrect, but I see a few things that may differ from his interpretation.


If you are pointing out the drops and trail coming off of the spark plug wire in pic #3, that is most likely the "glue" melting from the rear of the knock sensor and not an oil of fluid leak. I have seen this dozens of times.

The easiest way to chack for a rear main seal leak is to open the inspection panel on the bottom passenger side of the trans. and look for wetness behind the flywheel. Also look about halfway up each side of the engine/trans joint to see if there is any oil showing. The flywheel will fling oil inside the bellhousing and it will show up the joints on the outside. You can also run your finger inside the bell housing to check for wetness, but an oil pan can also do this to a lesser extent.

The picture showing the downpipe coming up from left to top right looks like an internal oil leak from the secondary turbo. You can remove your y-pipe/intercooler pipe and check for oil inside.

The pic from the front of the engine, showing the timing ring, is showing a seap from the front seal, or front cover bolt.

And finally, you seem to have an oil pan leak just like over 50% of all FD owners.

Mike

 

i'm uncertain if my problem is the same as yours but i'm unable to identify where my oil leak is coming from... the previous owner had the same problem but this only happens after driving the car for a few miles. i had wiped off all excess fluid but i have a small trail of oil leaking. its not from the plug...but my engine was rebuilt and installed by the mazda dealership(actually the previous owner spent the $$$ to have all work done). if anyone can help...i'd really appeciate it.

 

I got the dye, cleaned engines and surrounding areas, then took her for a drive. I found that it seems to be leaking from the Oil pan (again, fixed by a dealer 3years ago) and the one turbo actuator that sits right by the bottom of the engine had oil on it, maybe it just sprayed onto it?? I could not really figure out where else it might be coming from in that area.

I want to look again, cause I just drove it some more, I have yet to check the rear main seal.

BTW does anyone know what those numbers on the front cover are??

 

The oil on the actuator could be splashing down from the oil feed line fitting. If the turbos had been off and the tech forgot to check all the fittings it could leak under pressure.

 

the dealer added the dye and still indicated that they could not identify where the leak was coming from or if any, but this only happen after driving the car around for a few miles. the leak sin't coming out bad but can leave a small trail after the car has been driven for 10 miles and just have the car sit in the garage....

 

I was absolutely convinced this was what was leaking on my car recently. Further inspection showed I had a front cover leak that was blowing down the right side of the motor just above the pan and all over the TCA. The oil wouldn't get onto the turbos themselves but being in the vicinity of the exhaust manifold it would still smoke.

 

DamonB - I am having similar symptoms right now and after a long drive (maybe 40 minutes or so) I can smell burning oil after I park. What did you do to fix the problem?

 

Those pictures look just like my car! After long drives the oil spray would cover the hot cat enough to smoke.
I just finished replacing the oil pan gasket. Unlike most piston engines, the normal oil level is above the pan/block joint, so if you have a path for the oil to come out, it will find it! I recommend using the factory gasket with sealant - I hear a lot of people don't use the gasket at all. Also, make sure it's clean! Just when you think it's clean enough, spray it down with brake cleaner again to get the oil off.
Here are some picts of my car on Sat. It's back together now and doesn't seem to be leaking.

 

Well it seems that its the oil pan, I could not find ANY place the oil was leaking from the front cover. I put dye in the oil, and it seems it leaking from pretty much the whole front of the black, and about 3 inches on either side of the engine (pass/drivers) and alittle around the drivers side engine mount.

I also double checked the turbo oil lines and nothing is leaking from there. I also checked the intake piping for oil, and there is just the SLIGHTEST film of oil. You need to wipe it with a paper towel alot and get a magnify glass out to see any on it, so I am very happy about that. I guess it just my be from bits of oil flying up and laying on the turbos.