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Oil Catch Can install locations

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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 04:40 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by dubulup
Thanks...its not bad...probably need to empty it every 10k - 15k miles or more on a solid engine. I just empty it when I clean my intake filter. (it is the Greddy one). I ran a rubber hose to the filler cap...and a silicon one pulling vacuum from the intake.
So pretty much like this..... yeah... I dont have photoshop at work.

Attached Thumbnails Oil Catch Can install locations-temp.jpg  
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 04:53 PM
  #27  
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no, that line you have hooked to the UIM goes to the intake before the turbo inlet.

Like this....

Attached Thumbnails Oil Catch Can install locations-dscn0187x.jpg  
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 05:42 PM
  #28  
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Here's mine. This can is nicely constructed, the sight glass can be insalled for vertical and horizontal mounting. Got mine for around $100. The A/N fittings and braided hose is from Mr. Gasket, it's their shadow series. I mounted the can to the bracket that the stock intercooler is mounted on, using an "L" bracket. Greddy also sells mounting hardware seperately.
Attached Thumbnails Oil Catch Can install locations-catch-tank.jpg  
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 06:37 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Scrub
no, that line you have hooked to the UIM goes to the intake before the turbo inlet.

Like this....
cool, thanks.

A breather will work instead of going all the way back to the turbo right?
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 08:08 PM
  #30  
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You can use a breather, but i'm going to try going back to vacuum.... i get some smoke on track, indicating i'm not evacuating all of the "crankcase" pressure.

I had the GReddy can for a while, but, at the track I'll fill it after one run, and there's no convenient way to drain it... I don't know what they were thinking.
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 09:50 PM
  #31  
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https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/oil-intake-fix-591228/
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 11:53 PM
  #32  
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sled driver,
I'm the stigs american cousin.....big stig!




except i only weigh 140..I dunno
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 12:49 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by ptrhahn
Where's you get the bottle? Did you have to add the second inlet?
It's G1476 from Summit. The can is not supposed to be vented, but mine had a small hole which I enlarged for the compression fitting. Everything looks good, but I haven't driven with it yet. If I were redoing the bracket, I'd consider moving the can to the stock vacuum tank's location above the oil lines.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 10:16 AM
  #34  
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Anyone know what the oil filler nipple size is? I'm going to get the JAZ one and need to pick between 1/4" and 3/8"... pretty sure it's 1/4" right?
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 10:26 AM
  #35  
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I believe 3/8's as I used some extra fuel line to run from the lower nipple to the hard line on the rack.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 10:51 AM
  #36  
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Mahjik is right the hose size is 3/8's or -6 AN line which is what I used. -6 AN and 3/8s is the same size.

-Dan
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 12:06 PM
  #37  
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^correct -6 = 6/16
which is 3/8
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 12:22 PM
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Another thing you can do is make sure you run the updated oil pan.

This is a quote from the 3rd gen masters tech guide.

"Early third generation cars used in competition sometimes had oil slosh move up the filler pipe during hard turns. A modification was made to oil pan baffles to correct this condition. The oil pan part number for this sympton is N3A1-10-400A."
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 11:08 AM
  #39  
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I've got my 1st generation set up for sale with a modified oil filler neck included

$75 shipped

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=626899

Just add hose............
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 01:02 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Sled Driver
I've got my 1st generation set up for sale with a modified oil filler neck included

$75 shipped

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=626899

Just add hose............
Too late...............

SOLD
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 02:42 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by felix_is_alive
here ya go

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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 03:49 PM
  #42  
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What's the PN# of that AN fitting again?


Originally Posted by Sled Driver
I've got my 1st generation set up for sale with a modified oil filler neck included

$75 shipped

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=626899

Just add hose............
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 04:09 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by RX72NR
Here's mine. This can is nicely constructed, the sight glass can be insalled for vertical and horizontal mounting. Got mine for around $100. The A/N fittings and braided hose is from Mr. Gasket, it's their shadow series. I mounted the can to the bracket that the stock intercooler is mounted on, using an "L" bracket. Greddy also sells mounting hardware seperately.
What is the size of A/N fitting and braided hose?
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 12:36 PM
  #44  
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Is there any reason why the hose can't be looped back to the filler neck? Why does it need to see vacuum from the intake pipe?
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 12:40 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by GoRacer
Is there any reason why the hose can't be looped back to the filler neck? Why does it need to see vacuum from the intake pipe?
The system need to vent somewhere. You can use a can which has a filtered breather and then not plumb it back to the intake. The problem with the filtered breathers is that you can and will get a gas odor from the oil being pushed out of the breather.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 01:45 PM
  #46  
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
I haven't pulled the manual out ye,t but isn't the little plastic tank on the bottom two studs under the throtle body and elbow an oil catch tank? ...if so, then why couldn't that just be replaced with a larger unit? This would explain why oil catch cans have no drain valve.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 02:55 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by GoRacer
I haven't pulled the manual out ye,t but isn't the little plastic tank on the bottom two studs under the throtle body and elbow an oil catch tank? ...if so, then why couldn't that just be replaced with a larger unit? This would explain why oil catch cans have no drain valve.
that little tank has nothing to do with the oil systen. It connects to the fuel system and the hose that comes off of it leads back the charcoal canister.

Here is a good write up and explanation about the catch can. I picked up a vented catch can from jazz and its a really nice unit with a drain on the bottom. I just have not found a place to put it yet.

http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/catch.htm

I have stated a few times there was an oil baffle update in the later year fd oil pan so I am assuming thats why you were reccomended to change yours out.

Last edited by Heisenberg; Mar 23, 2007 at 03:01 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 03:35 PM
  #48  
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
Yeah, I just found out it was a fuel vapor catch tank. I don't want a breather filter on my oil catch tank. Smog techs fail you for breather filters.

Here's the explenation used on rhdjapan for Custco and Sard:
The item will allow for the release/blowby of gas and oil and will return it to the combustion area of the engine. In turn, the engine will remain cleaner and performance will remain optimal in addition to a great engine bay dress-up piece!
Maybe i'm understanding that wrong but it sounds like it goes inline in between the filler neck and extension manifold (vacuum).
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 07:22 PM
  #49  
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Is there any reason why the line can't be plumbed back to the block? I could leave the PCV connected to the extension manifold to releive pressure. The bottom nipple on the oil filler neck to one of the ports on the catch tank and then the other port T'ing in to the oil line from oil cooler to oil filter/block.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 07:31 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by GoRacer
Is there any reason why the line can't be plumbed back to the block?
There is no reason you can't leave it going to the UIM. Whether it goes to the UIM or the primary intake elbow, it's technically still going to the "intake track".

The difference is that the UIM location will see both vacuum and boost, therefor you need to maintain the check valve as to not pressurize the oil system from the manifold. The primary intake location is vacuum, never sees boost so a check valve is not needed.
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