So far, so good. Ever since I did the last flush and seal, and this time LEAVING the product in, I haven't had to add more than about a cup of water to the system. And it WAS over pressurizing and overflowing about a quart of coolant a DAY! We've had some upper 70 degree weather here lately, and I have been doing a lot of driving in traffic with the A/C on, and so far not a sign of overheating. I am not sure how it will handle Kansas' 105 degree summer heat with only water (and sealer) in the system.....
But the beauty is I don't HAVE to drive the car, I can let it sit in the garage thru the really hot stuff, take it out at night when it cools off if there is any sort of a problem.

Keeping my fingers crossed.....

 

I'm right there with ya dude...The block weld bitches It is nice to have a daily driver so you can leave the 7 sitting when it's down or just too nasty outside...

Good luck! take it easy on the boost. Seems most people end up messing up the fix when they start running boost higher than 12-13psi.

 

Just keep this thread in mind:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=174747

 

yes, i recently replaced my thermostat after running CRC for a couple weeks. i flushed the system multiple times over 2 days with diluted purple power degreeser first and water the rest of the times. have been running straight distilled water for the last 200 or so miles though, no (more) problems yet.

 

So I really don't get it...If you use blockweld (any brand) it means you motor is on its last leg for sure...So it's either pull the motor or have blockweld patch you up for another few thousand miles and you may clog your Rad and "possibly" overheat... So I asked RP in Garland if it's going to affect the rebuild if I use this stuff and they say "NO"...so why not use it? The one thing I would recommend is that if you are going to use it, pick up a stock radiator for $50 and stick it in there so you don't mess up your fluidine, koyo, PWR, or whatever after market Rad you have. CRC has me going now for a good 2 months...granted that's only a a little over 200 miles for me at 11psi...

My 2¢

 

Rebuilding your engine and clogging up everything that has to do with cooling your car are two different things.

If you plan on getting a reman (replacing your radiator, etc), then there is no big deal. But the truth is that the blockweld-in-a-can can do damage to other areas under the hood of your car which don't have anything to do with the parts required for an engine rebuild.

 

When I pulled my motor for a water seal failure, 2 of the upper coolant passages were blocked. I had a mix of coolant and water though, I know that makes a difference. If you don't have to drive the car why risk it? If you overheat you are going to spend alot more money replacing housings that are warped. Who knows you might get lucky and only need to replace all the paper and metal seals.

 

what about heater cores and other items to do with cooling? liquid cooled turbos, etc?

 

Hmmm, I've got over 20,000 miles on my blockwelded engine in Tucson. Granted I caught the problem when it was minor. I've also got a $185.00 aftermarket all copper two row radiator. I rarely run over 200F with distilled water and Redline Water Wetter. My only mods are intake, dp, exhaust and MANUAL ceramic ball and spring boost controller with remote adjuster.
I have aviation style sensors located at the base of the leading spark plugs on both rotors with a calibrated readout accurate to within 1%. Good enough for me.

Everything is just fine.

Block Weld reacts with air and nothing else. You need to burp the system as much as possible BEFORE adding it. Multiple treatments without burping the system are sure to cause additional deposits all over the cooling system - it is doing exactly what it is designed to do.

I guess my point is that if you are going to do a rebuild a new radiator, thermostat, water pump and hoses - and probably a heater core (if you live in a cold climate and use it alot) are REQUIRED elements for success, or else you'll toast the new engine - like so many have reported. The problem is not with the remans, it's with the half assed job done by almost everyone skimping on replacing expensive and critical cooling system components that causes the failure.

That, and defeating the airflow through the engine room with overly thick radiators that do not flow at low speeds (under 100 mph), front mount intercoolers and aftermarket front ends that just plain don't do a thing to improve cooling - and in most cases make it worse.

 

If only everyone thought the same thing.... I rarely see many (if any) go to that kind of detail after getting a rebuild. Most people just get the engine rebuilt and slap on all their existing components (thus in most cases, causing the same problem that cost the first engine).

However, some people might be less incline to run blockweld if they know there is a danger they will need to replace more than just the motor when it's that time. I know I would rather pony up to get the job done right (and I did when I first got my car and it had already lost the coolant seals).