Up until last week, the seq system worked flawlessly. Then I got a little adventureous and switched to non-seq via the poor man method. Now I've done this before, and didn't like the result at the time when the car was an automatic. Well now that it is a manual, I thought that I should non-seq another try....maybe it would work better with a 5 speed, right?

The procedure I used was the same as the last time, opened the turbo control and precontrol gates. I used some metal wires I had lying around to wire the turbo control gate's arm towards the front of the car, and the precontroller's arm towards the rear. I disconnected the lines going to the charge control actuator, turbo control, and charge relief valve. Since I've been using a Profec B, I don't have the stock wastegate and precontroller solenoids anymore. Again, same procedure as last time.

I took the car out for a drive, and got 2 psi max boost all the way up to redline.

I checked for leaks, cracks, etc. and couldn't find any. Vacumne holds very nice at 19 in-Hg. Normally with the car idling, there should be a steady stream of air comming out of the Y pipe. I don't have that. I would have to rev the engine up past 4K rpm to get any air to come out. What could possibly cause the turbos not to spin at low rpms?

I have a down pipe, highflow cat, catback, cold air intake, huge intercooler, and a 9.5lb fly wheel. That should provide adequate flow for non-seq conversion. Granted that the cat is 1/4 clogged, it should not have effected the lack of boost. Like I said, seq operation worked flawlessly last week, but now.......

I hope it's something stupid that I did wrong. Could you think of anything cuz I sure can't. I don't want to go back to yet seq because I would like to see how it drives with non-seq working properly. Thanks.

 

I bet you accidentally wired your wastegate open. I could be wrong, but take a look.

 

I looked at it from underneath the car, with the engine running, and it looks shut. Ofcourse I couldn't tell while driving. I wired it the same way that I would running seq.....just minus the precontrol actuator. The wastegate doesn't even start to move until 7 psi is present, because that's how much pressure it takes to compress the spring. I get 2 psi max. Something is really wrong here. I don't think it's the boost guage because my wolf display shows about that much too. I guess my next step is to open the intake and run my fingers on the turbo blades to see if there's excessive resistance. I dunno......

 

Are you sure you didn't get your precontrol actuator and wastegate actuator mixed up and wire the wrong one? The wastegate is on the top and the precontrol is on the bottom. What did you do with the line going to the CRV? Can you hear any boost bleeding off?

 

the precontrol and turbo control actuators are physically gone. The only thing left is the wastegate. As for the CRV is left intact and not connected to anything. The respective solenoids are gone too, so are the pressure and vacumne tanks. it is a semi-permanent conversion

 

If the wastegate actuator(not solenoid) is gone, how are you controlling boost?

 

oh the wastegate actuator is still there, and being controlled by a profec b. THat's what I meant to say.

 

Are you sure you wired the bottom one(precontrol) and not the top one(wastegate) open? Sorry if I'm being redundant.

 

yes....people say nonseq is much easier to diagnose....but I guess there's more to it.

 

Try connecting the CRV vacuum hose to any intake nipple. The lack of pressure could be allowing it to stay open.

 

Try connecting the CRV vacuum hose to any intake nipple. The lack of pressure could be allowing it to stay open. It will be just like another BOV.

 

oops

 

ok...I'll try that tomorrow. My head hurts from thinking about it.

 

The line going into the WG controller has the profec B inbetween, I assume, but what are you doing with the line that goes out of the WG controller?

 

the other nipple on the WG is capped off.

 

Thought that might be the problem, you actually want that to vent a little bit, if it's capped off it limits or cuts off boost.

You don't want it to vent unrestricted though because you'd generate huge amounts of boost, I put a needle valve on mine and opened it up a little at a time.

I'm using a dawes (manual) boost controller so I don't know if the profec B can do this already, I've got the dawes inbetween the y-pipe nipple the WG actuator IN and a cheap needle valve on the WG actuator OUT that vents to atmosphere.

The first diagram on this page will help:
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...controller.htm

 

ok...let me get this straight.

there are 2 nipples on the WG actuator. Looking from the front of the car, they are at ~10 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions.

I linned the 10 o'clock nipple to the profec b, and capped off the 3 o'clock nipple. This is the set up with seq operation, which worked fine. Aren't the nipples one of the same? I mean both lead to the diaphram of the WG? I'll vent the 3 o'clock nipple on the WG and see what happens.

 

Let me know what happens, and I can't stress enough:

Make sure when you vent the 3 o'clock nipple that it's not wide open, it needs to be open just a crack with some kind of valve on there, if it's open and unrestricted you'll create unlimited boost

 

Connect the CRV to a vaccuum/boost source from the manifold(i.e. Tee into your boost guage). Also check to see that the turbo control door is still wired open. My wire broke and that caused me to loose boost.

 

alaskan7:

I completely uncapped that nipple, and the turbos said "no boost for you!" Seriously.....it's still 2 psi. As I understand it, pressure from the turbo goes in to one of the nipples. When enough pressure is present (>7 psi precisely), the WG actuator is forced to move in, thereby pushing on that rod which opens the WG. Both nipples do the same thing. Perhaps I'm wrong.....but it still doesn't work.

neevosh:

I inspected the CRV (with it unplugged to the manifold) with the car running, and I could not feel air coming out of it. It doesn't seem like it's losing air through the CRV.

THe more I think about it, the more I'm convinced that there's something wrong with the turbos. I mean the exhaust gas HAS to come through the turbines, so why aren't they spinning? I guess one possibility is that the WG is busted.

 

Time to go single.

 

Hmmm, now I'd say it's time to (you might've done this already though) check the hoses and couplers from the y-pipe to the IC to the intake for any little holes and verify tight connections - the y-pipe to crossover stock rubber coupler is the most common to get holes unless you have silicone couplers. Do you hear the turbo's spooling at all, or what do you hear?

Bob

 

The turbos aren't spinning fast enough at idle to notice anything coming out of the CRV. Without a pressure source going to it, it will lose boost. Probably not enough to go down to 2 psi, but it will bleed off a few psi. Connect a line to the Charge Relief Valve.

 

alaskan 7:

I have an upgraded intercooler and use silicon couplers, and they are tight. I really got on it this morning, and after 2 psi, it makes a sound like taking a blow dryer and aim it in a plastic bag......sort of a whirling noise. I will make a detailed inspection this weekend.

neevosh:

I connected the CRV to a nipple on the manifold, and same thing.

glassman:

Too much $ for single. I have a spare turbo that I'm thinking about upgrading to TO4s compressors.