We did a FD engine rebuild with Sake Bomb 2 yrs ago.
We used a low cost ($2000) single turbo conversion kit, and its been running great.
Car is making about 380hp with is just fine.

While working on the AC to fix leaks and refill we found the turbo had come loose from the manifold and the gasket blew out.

So we took of the turbo to replace the gasket.
It turned out the studs into the manifold came loose, not the nuts.
The turbo is a chinese brand Rev9 TX-72-68 on T4 flange and needs external waste.

Since the turbo is off we are thinking about replacing it with a better turbo
Dale has previously recommended a Borg Warner EFR 8374.

This is a pretty expensive turbo and we would never up the horse power to the 475 HP this can do.

Is there an alternative turbo we can consider?
We would like to get one close enough to the current turbo so we dont need to have the car re-tuned, if thats possible.

And last when we put on what ever we get, any ideas on how we prevent the studs from coming loose again?

 

The Borg Warner S300-SXE 8376 "S362 SXE" would get my vote. Had good experiences with one on a friend's previous third gen. I would strongly advise re-tuning when changing turbochargers or it may prove to be a financially painful experience.

I would look for nuts that have holes that will allow you to pass safety wire through them so they can't move.

Hope that helps.

 

Sounds like a quest!
More than likely, the flange face of the manifold will need truing after a blown gasket, I wouldn't just install new hardware and turbo and call it apples. Not familiar with the Rev9 brand, good chance the BW mightn't clear using that manifold, they're physically quite big. Downpipe and W/G, if external again - and plumbed will need rework at the minimum, possibly oil drain, air inlet too if anything more than a pod installed.

 

Seems like a whole new kit would be needed?

 

We are going to put the old turbo back on.
Going to use bolts instead of studs.
Which type of gasket is better a stainless steel gasket or the other type?

 

An MLS gasket would be the most common off-the-shelf. I think somebody here was an exponent of graphite some years ago for the flange to motor side at least, if that's what you mean by other - they'll all die eventually at the turbo interface with enough abuse......V band divided would be nice.

Don't understand the attraction of a bolted joint there, especially if just using a high tensile bolt and installation should be easier supporting the weight with studs, instead of lifting the turbo while turning the bolt.

M10 inconel studs (if a Jap manifold, may be 1.25 pitch instead), torqued to spec with a stud extractor and all metal locknuts, preferably plated in copper or silver is the way to go. If you're rolling in it, reduced hex nuts https://kl-projects.be/products/khx-m10-150-xht/ can make the sometimes 1/16th of a turn installation on shorty manifolds less painful.

BW is good with exact dimensions, if you wanted to compare with the existing thing.