kvondutch

iTrader: (3)

ok so here is the deal i bought a 1993 Twin Turbo RX-7 the guy i bought it off of was unsure of the problem and the main problem im concerned with is when you let it idle with a/c or head lights on it'll stall out
i did some research and a few of my buddies told me it could me MAF Sensor that needs to be replaced. im unsure of this and i was wondering if anyone might have any ideas what the problem might be. other then that i as long as i keep the car rpm at 1000 at a stop light it wont stall out and the car drives great and it doesnt stall when those are turned off sometimes when they are on it'll stall sometimes it wont. and there is smoke out of the exhaust when its first started up but once you get in and drive it for 2 seconds its gone im sure this isnt anything to worry about but just curious

NTIMD8

iTrader: (1)

Well I can tell you that the problem is not your MAF since RX-7's do not have one. Our cars use a manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP). Sorry I can;t be more help in regards to the root of yout problem.

kvondutch

iTrader: (3)

oh well good thing you told me im not to familiar with the rx7 i joined this so i can learn anyone else have any opinions?

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

For what I know, it's fairly normal for RX-7s to smoke a little at startup. As long as they don't keep smoking.

A few tips for you, make sure you keep an eye on your boost gauge(if you don't have one, get one). Make sure not to overboost, without the proper mods, which can be found in the FAQ sticky at the top of this section.

Also, make sure you let your car warm up when you first start it. Though that usually goes without saying with any car, it's not common practice. Being as this car is so old and boosted, it's more important than with most other cars.

Again, this usually goes without saying, but don't boost the car before you shut it down. Give a good 2-3 minutes of easy driving, out of boost, before you reach your destination. Turbo timers are a bad idea on these cars, as the turbos are water cooled, so there's no need to run extra oil through the turbos. As well, when you're idling, underhood temps shoot through the roof, so you're basically cooking your engine and doing no extra good for the turbos.

Other than that...I have no clue about your stalling issue, but there's a few people on here who would probably know. I'd probably start with the electical system...possibly the wiring harness, or could be the alternator or grounds. Or it could be something completely unrelated, that's just where I'd start troubleshooting if it was my car.

One last thing. You said "as long as you hold it at 1000RPMs it won't stall at stop lights, do you mean that if you don't hold in the throttle it will stall when you come to a stop regardless of whether or not the AC and/or headlights are on?

kvondutch

iTrader: (3)

if the headlight and ac are turned off i can let it idle but if the headlights and ac are on thats when i have to keep my foot on the gas slightly and this is the only problem the car has a few mods swapped transmission new motor and 35k miles on the chassis the car runs great dont get me wrong but having the headlights and ac on will stall it if i let it idle but then again sometimes it doesnt stall so im really confused

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

Like I said, I've never dealt with this issue, but my intuition would say to start with the electrical system.

What mods and what do you mean "swapped transmission"?

kvondutch

iTrader: (3)

polished aluminum door sills, aluminum ast, koyo radiator, k&n fuel filter, 17lb racing beat flywheel, downpipe, ss clutch line, poly motor mounts, dual DIY MBC, fighters garage intake, defi boost and water temp d-gauges w/ center speaker mount, turbojeff battery tray with 51R battery.... those are the mods and orginally it was an automatic but he swapped and rebuilt the transmission so its 5 spd now he actually did a really good job and there is 1k miles on trans and 4k miles on new motor

kvondutch

iTrader: (3)

those are all the mods the previous owner had put on i tihnk i might change a few of them but i dont tihnk any of the mods would affect my problem. and he also put extra ground wires because orginally thats what he thought the problem was but im lost i know with time ill learn alot through this forum

PhDMDRX7

Sounds like the ecu isn't detecting the electrical load and isn't compensating it by raising the idle speed. I don't have a clue how to diagnose a stock ecu problen with the exception of swapping it out with a known good one and see if the problem is solved. But I agree start with the electrical system and specifically start by ensuring the ecu is grounded.

kvondutch

iTrader: (3)

alright sounds good i think i might take it up to ptuning friday night they said they can diagnose and figure exactly what problem is for $60 and if i have them fix it they intergrate the $60 into the cost to fix so i might try that out because ive gotten alot of opinions saying it could be MAF Sensor which im confused someone told me FD's dont have them so can someone clear that up with me? and then i also get grounding and alternator but alternator is fine and someone suggest pulleys so its all very unclear to me

grimple1

iTrader: (1)

we don't have mafs. 100% take it to the bank.

PhDMDRX7

We have a MAP sensor; manifold absolute pressure. Read the manual(s) they're available on the stickies here on the forum.