COLBALT

what is the cost? from a mazda dealer?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Why not just call a Mazda dealer and ask?

AARotary

Don't get from a dealer they will be $$$$. That will be the last place I would go to order parts for my FD. Check out at www.radiatorwholesalers.com they have excellent prices on stock and aftermarket radiators for the RX-7.

BrianK

I know you asked about stock, but let me return the question and ask, if you're replacing the radiator anyway, why the heck are you replacing it with a stock radiator that is known to have problems? The Fluidyne radiator is only a couple pounds heavier, performs much better and is more reliable (and fits perfectly). I'd say go with the Fluidyne - I'm happy I did.

www.absoluteradiator.com - $412 + shipping

If you still want the stocker, mazdatrix has them ( www.mazdatrix.com ):
15-200A-N3A1.....RADIATOR NEW..........93-95 MANUAL TRANS....$ 390.95

DamonB

Got my stock replacement from 1-800-RADIATOR in Dallas for $265. They even delivered it to me same day. Looks exaactly like the original and went in with no problems at all.

G 's 3rd gen

Just wondering if you changed it out yourself? If so did you run into any prob.??Thanks!

BrianK

Well, my stock radiator went out only a couple months after getting the car, so I wasn't incredibly confident about doing any work in the engine... so I had a really small shop do it. Just because of the way the shop is set up, I was sitting right there talking with the guy the whole time he was doing the swap, so I can recount every step he took in doing it.

As far as running into any problems, absolutely none. The fan assembly fits perfectly onto the Fluidyne's mounting brackets, the Fluidyne fits perfectly into the space it's supposed to in your engine bay, and the hoses match up correctly with the radiator openings.

The only thing you'll run into (and this is so minor, it's barely worth mentioning) will be from the fact that the Fluidyne is a bit wider than the stock radiator, which, in turn, makes the air box sit up just a little bit higher... this causes the front ducting (the very front most plastic piece in your engine bay) to sit up just a little bit higher, which doesn't allow the hood prop to settle completely down into its catch, and the rubber grommets on the hood prop rub again that front ducting. BFD. If you have an aftermakret air box, you won't have anything to worry about.

Tip: when you're filling your car up with coolant after replacing the radiator, diconnect the hose that feeds coolant to your throttle body. It will allow air to escape from the system while you're putting in the coolant, and you won't have to go through the "warm up, burp, fill; warm up, burp, fill" crap.

Tip #2: Check out Rob Robinette's page about doing a radiator flush... it has a picture of the block's coolant drain plug. Take out this plug when draining the system because there's a good quart or so of dirty coolant standing in your engine even after you drain the radiator.
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/flush.htm