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I'm new in here as well and the FD I picked up was sitting for 14 years, but I have just now been through the entire fuel system. I initially thought that my leak was going to be the FPD, but when I tore everything apart it ended up being the crossover hose from the primary to the secondary fuel rail. See picture below. When my car was turned on it was leaving a puddle of fuel under the car.
Since everything was already torn apart I went ahead and replaced all the fuel lines, the FPD, the orings for the injectors and the injector seats. Probably a good idea on your car as well to eliminate any issues of fuel for a while.
I'm new in here as well and the FD I picked up was sitting for 14 years, but I have just now been through the entire fuel system. I initially thought that my leak was going to be the FPD, but when I tore everything apart it ended up being the crossover hose from the primary to the secondary fuel rail. See picture below. When my car was turned on it was leaving a puddle of fuel under the car.
Since everything was already torn apart I went ahead and replaced all the fuel lines, the FPD, the orings for the injectors and the injector seats. Probably a good idea on your car as well to eliminate any issues of fuel for a while.
that's awesome and thanks for going out of your way to provide photos! Very helpful
You can see the little rubber plug at the top of the FPD. It is part of the much larger rubber diaphram inside the FPD. I suppose it is there to indicate if the damper itself is rotting away
When you have the injectors removed watch out not to lose the little spacing collars.
Also look in the LIM to see the condition of the deflecter screens that should be there sitting below the injectors.
Hi everyone. So an update... I took my car into a local shop for the fuel leak and they took apart the rats nest area, and eventually told me they give up. They said no charge for the labor it took them to take a look but returned the car to me with everything disembled. Including this piece that they broke. Can someone tell me what this part is? Thanks in advance
so yeah, I'm still stuck not driving it since the fuel issue still exists...
That looks to be just a stock-style vacuum check valve. Not a big deal in itself or expensive. They had a tendency to break like that with age and heat. PM a member here DaleClark. He sells better designed and more robust versions.
Geez, which shop was that? Would like to know so I don't take my car there.
For what it's worth, when my car needed work, I took it to Rotary Performance in Dallas. Yes it's a pain, but they will do the job right. Just something to consider.
hey everyone
Update on the fuel leak. So it was the fuel injector O rings that were bad. While we have the rats nest out of the way, going to upgrade all the hoses etc.
While they work on the single turbo v mount upgrade, I got a bunch of parts coming in so ill be putting them on little by little. Starting off the tail lights.
This is quite common: taking a car to a local shop who dive in without knowing what they are doing.
Once you start pulling apart a rats nest you'd better have $1500 set aside for all the things that are gonna break.
Test the hell out of the car before diving in.
Running around the engine bay breaking things is usually a disaster.
one of our local guys figured out that after a certain point, you should just replace the engine.
the labor is the same to replace the engine as it is to reseal the oil pan and rear stat gear o ring, and if the engine has some mileage on it, money is better spent just starting over
people would balk at his prices, but if you decide to just fix each thing as it comes up, its actually more money, and the car is broken all the time
one of our local guys figured out that after a certain point, you should just replace the engine.
the labor is the same to replace the engine as it is to reseal the oil pan and rear stat gear o ring, and if the engine has some mileage on it, money is better spent just starting over
people would balk at his prices, but if you decide to just fix each thing as it comes up, its actually more money, and the car is broken all the time
solid point. The thing is my car only has 46k miles on it son everything else is running perfect.
Since you're aiming for 550 hp, and I would assume you would probably be doing some spirited driving, and i would assume you would be using some sticky tires... I might recommend this: https://more-japan.com/reinforced-re...-rx7-fd3s.html
But what do I know? Gonna subcribe.
Yes this is true. Remanufactured engine is built in house by Mazda, so you get QA assurance from the OEM manufacturer. Also its cheaper and probably less prone to failure then some jo schmo "rebuilding" the engine.
It is bit of a leap to go from replacing the rats nest to replacing the motor.
If the compression is good and other tests, like a smoke test for air/vacuum leaks, help identify existing problems, it may be worthwhile to try to refurbish the engine bay, with the existing motor.
What does replacing the engine mean?
If it means replacing all the old and tired peripheral components at the same time as dropping in a new keg, why not start with the peripherals?
In the end you can use those with the new keg, if and when that becomes necessary.
Having said that, even with a new motor, you would need to find a competent shop willing to attempt to reconstitute an OEM engine bay.
(Hint: it isn't easy.)
Many shops will steer you to going to an aftermarket ecu and eliminating most of the emissions and sequential turbo set up.
This is called "reliability rebuild". Frankly maybe 95% of rebuilds , in our area, end up this way (if not straight to a massive HP build).
The final deciding factor for many is, if you stick with an OEM ecu, you are relying on a 30 year old motherboard to last you for the foreseeable future.
The stock ECU seem very robust, and most that I have looked inside of ,still have internals in beautiful condition, but in the end its a thirty year old PC.
It is bit of a leap to go from replacing the rats nest to replacing the motor.
If the compression is good and other tests, like a smoke test for air/vacuum leaks, help identify existing problems, it may be worthwhile to try to refurbish the engine bay, with the existing motor.
What does replacing the engine mean?
If it means replacing all the old and tired peripheral components at the same time as dropping in a new keg, why not start with the peripherals?
In the end you can use those with the new keg, if and when that becomes necessary.
Having said that, even with a new motor, you would need to find a competent shop willing to attempt to reconstitute an OEM engine bay.
(Hint: it isn't easy.)
Many shops will steer you to going to an aftermarket ecu and eliminating most of the emissions and sequential turbo set up.
This is called "reliability rebuild". Frankly maybe 95% of rebuilds , in our area, end up this way (if not straight to a massive HP build).
The final deciding factor for many is, if you stick with an OEM ecu, you are relying on a 30 year old motherboard to last you for the foreseeable future.
The stock ECU seem very robust, and most that I have looked inside of ,still have internals in beautiful condition, but in the end its a thirty year old PC.
Wow thank you so much for your insights. I'll definitely show my mechanic this page
In the end you can use those with the new keg, if and when that becomes necessary..
yes for sure, but that is doubling the labor cost, because you already changed it once.
for an FD engine replacement isn't if, its a when. unless you keep the miles down (the same guys personal FD would see less than 1,000 miles a year, so we'd all be dead before it hits 50k on the odometer)
Hi everyone, wanted to update on the current situation.
So backstory, I took the car to another shop after the fuel leak but they kept the car for 4 weeks just sitting there. Top it off, they parked my car underneath a oil/gas leaking truck so my hood and roof is stained. Luckily my Seibon hood is in route so hood is not a problem but I have to re-wrap my roof.
The car is now at a shop with a guy that's retired but worked on RX7's only for over 20years. So now it's definitely in good hands. He took a quick look at the car when I towed it there, and knew exactly what to do.
He'd going to clean up the rats nest, emission block off plate, FPD delete, upgrade hoses/clamps etc, clean fuel injector, injector testing, new spark plugs, new vac lines, all to prepare for the single turbo build.
He did suggest I keep the sequential for now and go with a 350hp build rather than jumping into the 500's.
Since my last post, I installed SSR wheels, gauges, single-din headunit, 99 face lift
Still waiting on my 99 Spec spoiler to arrive but I'll put all the exterior stuff on the car once it's up and running again in about 2 weeks or so
Really nice interpretation. I have been trying to find a "bra" that fits the '99 spec front bumper for those late summer night "touge" in the mountains. But I have not found one. There is a S6 version but it is too much of a stretch to try to fit on the s8.
Had a local wrap shop do a 3D scan of the front bumper, but I have not taken the step to approach an upholstery shop to custom make, yet.
Really nice interpretation. I have been trying to find a "bra" that fits the '99 spec front bumper for those late summer night "touge" in the mountains. But I have not found one. There is a S6 version but it is too much of a stretch to try to fit on the s8.
Had a local wrap shop do a 3D scan of the front bumper, but I have not taken the step to approach an upholstery shop to custom make, yet.
Yes, "bra's" would be nice. I would do a temporary wrap on the bumper of even PPF it? You only need 6ft of wrap for the bumper itself so not too pricey.
Hey everyone. Wanted to check to see if anyone has done this and how the fitment is. My neighbor has a very clean Mazda 3 Axela reclining Mazdaspeed bucket seat and was wondering if these will fit the FD? He said i can have them if they'll fit.
02-02-23, 03:50 PM
