New owner
#26
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (26)
Plus "1" for the dent/ding removal. We sometimes do a ding removal meet, split the minimum charge. Much cheaper than bodywork for the small stuff, at least.
That pic is not my car. I don't know the back story.
But it has been long reported of the risks of even the 255 hp sequential twins kicking in in a corner and putting the car in a spin.
That being said there is a lot to be said to retaining the sequential set-up. The first turbo scrolls up very fast. Many people miss it when they give it up.
Unfortunately few shops locally here will support the sequential set-up due to reliability concerns, and , frankly, their business model targeting big boost modifications.
That pic is not my car. I don't know the back story.
But it has been long reported of the risks of even the 255 hp sequential twins kicking in in a corner and putting the car in a spin.
That being said there is a lot to be said to retaining the sequential set-up. The first turbo scrolls up very fast. Many people miss it when they give it up.
Unfortunately few shops locally here will support the sequential set-up due to reliability concerns, and , frankly, their business model targeting big boost modifications.
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#27
10000 RPM Lane
iTrader: (2)
you don’t even have to be getting on the throttle. It can be something as simple as your rear tires slightly worn from having too much fun or an aggressive autox type alignment, then hit some standing water cruising down the county highway on a rainy day to get a bit of a hydroplane wiggle and off she goes …
not that I know anything about that.
.
not that I know anything about that.
.
#28
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
With the sequentials you have almost full boost at 1,800 rpm. There is still no single turbo setup that can do that, even EFR. This is why sequentials are king for autocross.
I do appreciate the simplicity advantages of a single setup, but I wouldn't rip out a functioning sequential setup to install one.
Regarding the paint, it sounds like you want to change the color, but if you like the Montego, all you really need is a paint correction and a repaint on the top surfaces only. A partial repaint like this won't be terribly expensive (use the funds from that enormous parts budget ), and it won't devalue your car like a wrap will. This would actually be cheaper in the long run than a wrap.
In general, anything you to "to save money" actually costs more money in the long run, because it has to be done again, and it drives value out of the car.
I do appreciate the simplicity advantages of a single setup, but I wouldn't rip out a functioning sequential setup to install one.
Regarding the paint, it sounds like you want to change the color, but if you like the Montego, all you really need is a paint correction and a repaint on the top surfaces only. A partial repaint like this won't be terribly expensive (use the funds from that enormous parts budget ), and it won't devalue your car like a wrap will. This would actually be cheaper in the long run than a wrap.
In general, anything you to "to save money" actually costs more money in the long run, because it has to be done again, and it drives value out of the car.
Last edited by c0rbin9; 01-26-23 at 04:38 PM.
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DaveW (01-26-23)
#29
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iTrader: (26)
FD are transitioning to being collectors cars, either as preservation examples or for restoration.
But I have been surprised to see the number of cars still being subject to big (BIG) budget builds.
I think both routes speak to the broad desirability of the FD look, and the more FD avoiding the scrapyard the better.
We have a lot of FD up here, but very few getting scrapped, or even parted out.
This has been the case since 2016.
But I have been surprised to see the number of cars still being subject to big (BIG) budget builds.
I think both routes speak to the broad desirability of the FD look, and the more FD avoiding the scrapyard the better.
We have a lot of FD up here, but very few getting scrapped, or even parted out.
This has been the case since 2016.
Last edited by Redbul; 01-26-23 at 06:08 PM.
#30
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Hi everyone. So came across an issue that I need to take of asap. I read a bunch of posts but can't seem to find one with "both" of the issues so I was wondering if someone can help.
Im leaking gasoline when the car is parked for about half a day and i look on the foor, about a half of cup of gasoline is on ghe floor. When the engine is on, lots of white smoke...I read this can be the coolant but since there's also the gasoline leak, I was confused. Thanks
Im leaking gasoline when the car is parked for about half a day and i look on the foor, about a half of cup of gasoline is on ghe floor. When the engine is on, lots of white smoke...I read this can be the coolant but since there's also the gasoline leak, I was confused. Thanks
#31
Don't worry be happy...
iTrader: (1)
Im leaking gasoline when the car is parked for about half a day and i look on the foor, about a half of cup of gasoline is on ghe floor. When the engine is on, lots of white smoke...I read this can be the coolant but since there's also the gasoline leak, I was confused. Thanks
Don't drive the car until you find where this leak is coming from. Trust me on this, I had my FD catch on fire and my only warning was that for a a few days prior I had a faint gas smell upon startup. So learn from my mistake.
Where about is their puddle located? Under the engine, near the gas tank, or what?
Your white smoke out if the tailpipe and gas leak are unrelated. White smoke coming out of the tailpipe = water. As an FYI - rotaries are known to spew white smoke due to condensation in the exhaust. However, if it's excessive and/or smells sweet and are experiencing unexplained loss of coolant then it's likely a bad coolant seal.
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Neo (01-27-23)
#32
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Very important:
Don't drive the car until you find where this leak is coming from. Trust me on this, I had my FD catch on fire and my only warning was that for a a few days prior I had a faint gas smell upon startup. So learn from my mistake.
Where about is their puddle located? Under the engine, near the gas tank, or what?
Your white smoke out if the tailpipe and gas leak are unrelated. White smoke coming out of the tailpipe = water. As an FYI - rotaries are known to spew white smoke due to condensation in the exhaust. However, if it's excessive and/or smells sweet and are experiencing unexplained loss of coolant then it's likely a bad coolant seal.
Don't drive the car until you find where this leak is coming from. Trust me on this, I had my FD catch on fire and my only warning was that for a a few days prior I had a faint gas smell upon startup. So learn from my mistake.
Where about is their puddle located? Under the engine, near the gas tank, or what?
Your white smoke out if the tailpipe and gas leak are unrelated. White smoke coming out of the tailpipe = water. As an FYI - rotaries are known to spew white smoke due to condensation in the exhaust. However, if it's excessive and/or smells sweet and are experiencing unexplained loss of coolant then it's likely a bad coolant seal.
#33
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (26)
White smoke could be coolant in the combustion chamber. Not a good sign. Does the exhaust smell heavily of coolant?
If you have coolant leaking in, then exhaust may be leaking into the coolant.
Are there bubbles in the coolant if you look into the upper coolant filler neck (careful opening hot).
My car blows lots of water vapour on cold starts on cold mornings. Is it unusually cold in Texas atm?
Was there any additive added to the gas , such as "seafoam". That will blow you some smoke as it cleans things out.
But you need to be extremely cautious if there is a gas leak.
There iare about four lines sort of coming out from the firewall at the left (right when facing) side of the motor. Check the hoses there. This is where one of my parts cars caught fire (before I owned it).
Check around the injectors. If it is leaking on that side, best not to run the motor.
Injectors could be leaking.
The pulsation damper diaphram could have dried out and may be leaking.
Is the "gasoline" actually oil mixed with coolant?
If the engine is overfilled with oil, oil will come up and come out the engine fume bypass hose at the top of the oil filler neck.
These fumes are supposed to be routed back to the front turbo intake and/or the UIM.
But sometimes people will block off those lines and just let the fume line vent to the engine bay.
If coolant is leaking internally, it could be mixing with the oil in the oil pan and making its way back up the filler neck.
But back to overfilling the oil. If the oil rises to the fume drain and that get down to your front turbo, then the oil will be blowing through and coming out as a lot of smoke in your exhaust.
(This would be the simple answer believe it or not)
If you have coolant leaking in, then exhaust may be leaking into the coolant.
Are there bubbles in the coolant if you look into the upper coolant filler neck (careful opening hot).
My car blows lots of water vapour on cold starts on cold mornings. Is it unusually cold in Texas atm?
Was there any additive added to the gas , such as "seafoam". That will blow you some smoke as it cleans things out.
But you need to be extremely cautious if there is a gas leak.
There iare about four lines sort of coming out from the firewall at the left (right when facing) side of the motor. Check the hoses there. This is where one of my parts cars caught fire (before I owned it).
Check around the injectors. If it is leaking on that side, best not to run the motor.
Injectors could be leaking.
The pulsation damper diaphram could have dried out and may be leaking.
Is the "gasoline" actually oil mixed with coolant?
If the engine is overfilled with oil, oil will come up and come out the engine fume bypass hose at the top of the oil filler neck.
These fumes are supposed to be routed back to the front turbo intake and/or the UIM.
But sometimes people will block off those lines and just let the fume line vent to the engine bay.
If coolant is leaking internally, it could be mixing with the oil in the oil pan and making its way back up the filler neck.
But back to overfilling the oil. If the oil rises to the fume drain and that get down to your front turbo, then the oil will be blowing through and coming out as a lot of smoke in your exhaust.
(This would be the simple answer believe it or not)
Last edited by Redbul; 01-27-23 at 12:19 AM.
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Madenjapan (01-27-23)
#34
Junior Member
Thread Starter
White smoke could be coolant in the combustion chamber. Not a good sign. Does the exhaust smell heavily of coolant.
If you have coolant leaking in, then exhaust may be leaking into the coolant.
Are there bubbles in the coolant if you look into the exhaust filler (careful opening hot).
My car blows lots of water vapour on cold starts on cold mornings.
Was there any additive added to the gas , such as "seafoam". That will blow you some smoke as it cleans things out.
But you need to be extremely cautious if there is a gas leak.
There is about four lines sort of coming out from the firewall at the left (right when facing) side of the motor. Check the hoses there. This is where on of my parts cars caught fire (before I owned it).
Check around the injectors. If it is leaking on that side, best not to run the motor.
Injectors could be leaking.
The pulsation damper may be leaking.
Is the "gasoline" actually oil mixed with coolant.
If the engine is overfilled with oil, oil wil come up and come out the engine fume bypass hose at the top of the oil filler neck.
These fumes are supposed to be routed back to the front turbo intake and/or the UIM.
But sometimes people will block off those lines and just let the fume line vent to the engine bay.
If coolant is leaking into the combustion chamber, it could be mixing with the oil in the oil pan and making its way back up the filler neck.
But back to overfilling the oil. If the oil rises to the fume drain and that get s down to your front turbo, they the oil will be blowing through and coming out as a lot of smoke in your exhaust.
(This would be the simple answer believe it or not)
If you have coolant leaking in, then exhaust may be leaking into the coolant.
Are there bubbles in the coolant if you look into the exhaust filler (careful opening hot).
My car blows lots of water vapour on cold starts on cold mornings.
Was there any additive added to the gas , such as "seafoam". That will blow you some smoke as it cleans things out.
But you need to be extremely cautious if there is a gas leak.
There is about four lines sort of coming out from the firewall at the left (right when facing) side of the motor. Check the hoses there. This is where on of my parts cars caught fire (before I owned it).
Check around the injectors. If it is leaking on that side, best not to run the motor.
Injectors could be leaking.
The pulsation damper may be leaking.
Is the "gasoline" actually oil mixed with coolant.
If the engine is overfilled with oil, oil wil come up and come out the engine fume bypass hose at the top of the oil filler neck.
These fumes are supposed to be routed back to the front turbo intake and/or the UIM.
But sometimes people will block off those lines and just let the fume line vent to the engine bay.
If coolant is leaking into the combustion chamber, it could be mixing with the oil in the oil pan and making its way back up the filler neck.
But back to overfilling the oil. If the oil rises to the fume drain and that get s down to your front turbo, they the oil will be blowing through and coming out as a lot of smoke in your exhaust.
(This would be the simple answer believe it or not)
#35
Don't worry be happy...
iTrader: (1)
Ya don't turn on the car. Usually the likely culprit of a fuel leak in the engine bay is the fuel pulsation dampener. But you're leaking a heck of a lot of fuel when the car in is off so it's tough to be sure.
In any case, here's a link that should help you locate the leak.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...system-871361/
PS I strongly suggest you don't make this a 500hp until you know this car inside and out. Just to trow it out there, IMO these cars are best with all the bolton's, upgraded ECU, & 12psi on sequential stock turbos (also stock injectors). It will be very reliable and very fast to boot.
In any case, here's a link that should help you locate the leak.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...system-871361/
PS I strongly suggest you don't make this a 500hp until you know this car inside and out. Just to trow it out there, IMO these cars are best with all the bolton's, upgraded ECU, & 12psi on sequential stock turbos (also stock injectors). It will be very reliable and very fast to boot.
#36
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Ya don't turn on the car. Usually the likely culprit of a fuel leak in the engine bay is the fuel pulsation dampener. But you're leaking a heck of a lot of fuel when the car in is off so it's tough to be sure.
In any case, here's a link that should help you locate the leak.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...system-871361/
PS I strongly suggest you don't make this a 500hp until you know this car inside and out. Just to trow it out there, IMO these cars are best with all the bolton's, upgraded ECU, & 12psi on sequential stock turbos (also stock injectors). It will be very reliable and very fast to boot.
In any case, here's a link that should help you locate the leak.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...system-871361/
PS I strongly suggest you don't make this a 500hp until you know this car inside and out. Just to trow it out there, IMO these cars are best with all the bolton's, upgraded ECU, & 12psi on sequential stock turbos (also stock injectors). It will be very reliable and very fast to boot.
#38
Junior Member
Thread Starter
#39
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (26)
Check the rubber hoses connecting the fuel hard line under the throttle body intake.
See Montego's link.
The reason there are so many lines is that surplus fuel flows all the way back to the gas tank. If your Fuel Pressure Regulator is stuck shut, gas will not flow back and excess fuel pressure will be experienced by the injectors.
The FPR requires vacuum to stay open.
If the vacuum line is damaged, or the solenoid controlling the vacuum to the FPR is not working, then the FPR will shut (or substantially shut).
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See Montego's link.
The reason there are so many lines is that surplus fuel flows all the way back to the gas tank. If your Fuel Pressure Regulator is stuck shut, gas will not flow back and excess fuel pressure will be experienced by the injectors.
The FPR requires vacuum to stay open.
If the vacuum line is damaged, or the solenoid controlling the vacuum to the FPR is not working, then the FPR will shut (or substantially shut).
Name: fuel20system.gif
Views: 31805
Size: 130.7 KB
Last edited by Redbul; 01-27-23 at 12:39 AM.
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Madenjapan (01-27-23)
#40
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
IMO unless you’re a very experienced and gifted driver 350 whp is probably about the limit of USABLE power on these cars, especially on anything resembling street tires. Beyond that you’re just going to be breaking expensive stuff so you can show friends the numbers on a dyno sheet.
Build to reliable fun factor, not a horsepower goal.
Build to reliable fun factor, not a horsepower goal.
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#41
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Hi everyone I tried searching the threads but couldn't find a solution on how to remove these bolts from the 93 front bumper. I'm trying to take these off and relocating them on the 99 bumper but can't figure it out. Any help would be greatly appreciated
#44
Junior Member
Thread Starter
The rebar, yes, got the 99 rebar used from a buddy
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Madenjapan (01-31-23)
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