3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
Sponsored by:

New owner

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-26-23, 04:16 PM
  #26  
Lives on the Forum

iTrader: (26)
 
Redbul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: B.C.
Posts: 5,071
Received 1,222 Likes on 951 Posts
Plus "1" for the dent/ding removal. We sometimes do a ding removal meet, split the minimum charge. Much cheaper than bodywork for the small stuff, at least.

That pic is not my car. I don't know the back story.

But it has been long reported of the risks of even the 255 hp sequential twins kicking in in a corner and putting the car in a spin.

That being said there is a lot to be said to retaining the sequential set-up. The first turbo scrolls up very fast. Many people miss it when they give it up.

Unfortunately few shops locally here will support the sequential set-up due to reliability concerns, and , frankly, their business model targeting big boost modifications.
The following 3 users liked this post by Redbul:
c0rbin9 (01-26-23), DaveW (01-26-23), Madenjapan (01-26-23)
Old 01-26-23, 04:32 PM
  #27  
10000 RPM Lane

iTrader: (2)
 
TeamRX8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: on the rev limiter
Posts: 2,497
Received 853 Likes on 584 Posts
you don’t even have to be getting on the throttle. It can be something as simple as your rear tires slightly worn from having too much fun or an aggressive autox type alignment, then hit some standing water cruising down the county highway on a rainy day to get a bit of a hydroplane wiggle and off she goes …

not that I know anything about that.
.
Old 01-26-23, 04:33 PM
  #28  
Rotary Enthusiast

iTrader: (2)
 
c0rbin9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 764
Received 376 Likes on 205 Posts
With the sequentials you have almost full boost at 1,800 rpm. There is still no single turbo setup that can do that, even EFR. This is why sequentials are king for autocross.

I do appreciate the simplicity advantages of a single setup, but I wouldn't rip out a functioning sequential setup to install one.

Regarding the paint, it sounds like you want to change the color, but if you like the Montego, all you really need is a paint correction and a repaint on the top surfaces only. A partial repaint like this won't be terribly expensive (use the funds from that enormous parts budget ), and it won't devalue your car like a wrap will. This would actually be cheaper in the long run than a wrap.

In general, anything you to "to save money" actually costs more money in the long run, because it has to be done again, and it drives value out of the car.

Last edited by c0rbin9; 01-26-23 at 04:38 PM.
The following users liked this post:
DaveW (01-26-23)
Old 01-26-23, 05:02 PM
  #29  
Lives on the Forum

iTrader: (26)
 
Redbul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: B.C.
Posts: 5,071
Received 1,222 Likes on 951 Posts
FD are transitioning to being collectors cars, either as preservation examples or for restoration.

But I have been surprised to see the number of cars still being subject to big (BIG) budget builds.

I think both routes speak to the broad desirability of the FD look, and the more FD avoiding the scrapyard the better.

We have a lot of FD up here, but very few getting scrapped, or even parted out.

This has been the case since 2016.

Last edited by Redbul; 01-26-23 at 06:08 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Redbul:
Neo (01-26-23), SETaylor (01-26-23)
Old 01-26-23, 10:33 PM
  #30  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Madenjapan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2023
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 31
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Hi everyone. So came across an issue that I need to take of asap. I read a bunch of posts but can't seem to find one with "both" of the issues so I was wondering if someone can help.

Im leaking gasoline when the car is parked for about half a day and i look on the foor, about a half of cup of gasoline is on ghe floor. When the engine is on, lots of white smoke...I read this can be the coolant but since there's also the gasoline leak, I was confused. Thanks
Old 01-26-23, 11:55 PM
  #31  
Don't worry be happy...

iTrader: (1)
 
Montego's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 6,846
Received 787 Likes on 463 Posts
Originally Posted by Madenjapan
Im leaking gasoline when the car is parked for about half a day and i look on the foor, about a half of cup of gasoline is on ghe floor. When the engine is on, lots of white smoke...I read this can be the coolant but since there's also the gasoline leak, I was confused. Thanks
Very important:
Don't drive the car until you find where this leak is coming from. Trust me on this, I had my FD catch on fire and my only warning was that for a a few days prior I had a faint gas smell upon startup. So learn from my mistake.

Where about is their puddle located? Under the engine, near the gas tank, or what?

Your white smoke out if the tailpipe and gas leak are unrelated. White smoke coming out of the tailpipe = water. As an FYI - rotaries are known to spew white smoke due to condensation in the exhaust. However, if it's excessive and/or smells sweet and are experiencing unexplained loss of coolant then it's likely a bad coolant seal.
The following users liked this post:
Neo (01-27-23)
Old 01-26-23, 11:59 PM
  #32  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Madenjapan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2023
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 31
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Originally Posted by Montego
Very important:
Don't drive the car until you find where this leak is coming from. Trust me on this, I had my FD catch on fire and my only warning was that for a a few days prior I had a faint gas smell upon startup. So learn from my mistake.

Where about is their puddle located? Under the engine, near the gas tank, or what?

Your white smoke out if the tailpipe and gas leak are unrelated. White smoke coming out of the tailpipe = water. As an FYI - rotaries are known to spew white smoke due to condensation in the exhaust. However, if it's excessive and/or smells sweet and are experiencing unexplained loss of coolant then it's likely a bad coolant seal.
thank you. It seems the fuel is coming out from the engine. I'm scared to turn on the car so haven't since I found out
Old 01-27-23, 12:09 AM
  #33  
Lives on the Forum

iTrader: (26)
 
Redbul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: B.C.
Posts: 5,071
Received 1,222 Likes on 951 Posts
White smoke could be coolant in the combustion chamber. Not a good sign. Does the exhaust smell heavily of coolant?

If you have coolant leaking in, then exhaust may be leaking into the coolant.

Are there bubbles in the coolant if you look into the upper coolant filler neck (careful opening hot).

My car blows lots of water vapour on cold starts on cold mornings. Is it unusually cold in Texas atm?

Was there any additive added to the gas , such as "seafoam". That will blow you some smoke as it cleans things out.

But you need to be extremely cautious if there is a gas leak.

There iare about four lines sort of coming out from the firewall at the left (right when facing) side of the motor. Check the hoses there. This is where one of my parts cars caught fire (before I owned it).

Check around the injectors. If it is leaking on that side, best not to run the motor.

Injectors could be leaking.

The pulsation damper diaphram could have dried out and may be leaking.

Is the "gasoline" actually oil mixed with coolant?

If the engine is overfilled with oil, oil will come up and come out the engine fume bypass hose at the top of the oil filler neck.

These fumes are supposed to be routed back to the front turbo intake and/or the UIM.

But sometimes people will block off those lines and just let the fume line vent to the engine bay.

If coolant is leaking internally, it could be mixing with the oil in the oil pan and making its way back up the filler neck.

But back to overfilling the oil. If the oil rises to the fume drain and that get down to your front turbo, then the oil will be blowing through and coming out as a lot of smoke in your exhaust.

(This would be the simple answer believe it or not)

Last edited by Redbul; 01-27-23 at 12:19 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Madenjapan (01-27-23)
Old 01-27-23, 12:12 AM
  #34  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Madenjapan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2023
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 31
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Originally Posted by Redbul
White smoke could be coolant in the combustion chamber. Not a good sign. Does the exhaust smell heavily of coolant.

If you have coolant leaking in, then exhaust may be leaking into the coolant.

Are there bubbles in the coolant if you look into the exhaust filler (careful opening hot).

My car blows lots of water vapour on cold starts on cold mornings.

Was there any additive added to the gas , such as "seafoam". That will blow you some smoke as it cleans things out.

But you need to be extremely cautious if there is a gas leak.

There is about four lines sort of coming out from the firewall at the left (right when facing) side of the motor. Check the hoses there. This is where on of my parts cars caught fire (before I owned it).

Check around the injectors. If it is leaking on that side, best not to run the motor.

Injectors could be leaking.

The pulsation damper may be leaking.

Is the "gasoline" actually oil mixed with coolant.

If the engine is overfilled with oil, oil wil come up and come out the engine fume bypass hose at the top of the oil filler neck.

These fumes are supposed to be routed back to the front turbo intake and/or the UIM.

But sometimes people will block off those lines and just let the fume line vent to the engine bay.

If coolant is leaking into the combustion chamber, it could be mixing with the oil in the oil pan and making its way back up the filler neck.

But back to overfilling the oil. If the oil rises to the fume drain and that get s down to your front turbo, they the oil will be blowing through and coming out as a lot of smoke in your exhaust.

(This would be the simple answer believe it or not)
wow thank you taking time to write this. I'm going to check it out first thing tomorrow and circle back on my findings. Thanks!!
Old 01-27-23, 12:23 AM
  #35  
Don't worry be happy...

iTrader: (1)
 
Montego's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 6,846
Received 787 Likes on 463 Posts
Ya don't turn on the car. Usually the likely culprit of a fuel leak in the engine bay is the fuel pulsation dampener. But you're leaking a heck of a lot of fuel when the car in is off so it's tough to be sure.

In any case, here's a link that should help you locate the leak.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...system-871361/


PS I strongly suggest you don't make this a 500hp until you know this car inside and out. Just to trow it out there, IMO these cars are best with all the bolton's, upgraded ECU, & 12psi on sequential stock turbos (also stock injectors). It will be very reliable and very fast to boot.


​​​
The following 3 users liked this post by Montego:
DaveW (01-27-23), Neo (01-27-23), Sgtblue (01-28-23)
Old 01-27-23, 12:26 AM
  #36  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Madenjapan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2023
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 31
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Originally Posted by Montego
Ya don't turn on the car. Usually the likely culprit of a fuel leak in the engine bay is the fuel pulsation dampener. But you're leaking a heck of a lot of fuel when the car in is off so it's tough to be sure.

In any case, here's a link that should help you locate the leak.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...system-871361/


PS I strongly suggest you don't make this a 500hp until you know this car inside and out. Just to trow it out there, IMO these cars are best with all the bolton's, upgraded ECU, & 12psi on sequential stock turbos (also stock injectors). It will be very reliable and very fast to boot.


​​​
thanks. Yeah I have to agree with you. going to take it slow on the engine build and get used to yhe csr and fix the small stuff first. Thanks for the link too. I'll take a look.
Old 01-27-23, 12:30 AM
  #37  
Lives on the Forum

iTrader: (26)
 
Redbul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: B.C.
Posts: 5,071
Received 1,222 Likes on 951 Posts
If the engine sat for a long time with old coolant in it, some of these chambers could have corroded out. I hope not.


Old 01-27-23, 12:31 AM
  #38  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Madenjapan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2023
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 31
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Originally Posted by Redbul
If the engine sat for a long time with old coolant in it, some of these chambers could have corroded out. I hope not.

oh gosh I hope that's not the case....
Old 01-27-23, 12:33 AM
  #39  
Lives on the Forum

iTrader: (26)
 
Redbul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: B.C.
Posts: 5,071
Received 1,222 Likes on 951 Posts
Check the rubber hoses connecting the fuel hard line under the throttle body intake.

See Montego's link.

The reason there are so many lines is that surplus fuel flows all the way back to the gas tank. If your Fuel Pressure Regulator is stuck shut, gas will not flow back and excess fuel pressure will be experienced by the injectors.

The FPR requires vacuum to stay open.

If the vacuum line is damaged, or the solenoid controlling the vacuum to the FPR is not working, then the FPR will shut (or substantially shut).

Name: fuel20system.gif
Views: 31805
Size: 130.7 KB

Last edited by Redbul; 01-27-23 at 12:39 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Madenjapan (01-27-23)
Old 01-28-23, 04:14 AM
  #40  
Urban Combat Vet

iTrader: (16)
 
Sgtblue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mid-west
Posts: 12,024
Received 866 Likes on 615 Posts
IMO unless you’re a very experienced and gifted driver 350 whp is probably about the limit of USABLE power on these cars, especially on anything resembling street tires. Beyond that you’re just going to be breaking expensive stuff so you can show friends the numbers on a dyno sheet.
Build to reliable fun factor, not a horsepower goal.
The following 7 users liked this post by Sgtblue:
boostin13b (01-28-23), c0rbin9 (01-28-23), DaveW (01-28-23), HiWire (01-28-23), Madenjapan (01-28-23), Montego (01-29-23), Neo (01-29-23) and 2 others liked this post. (Show less...)
Old 01-31-23, 10:42 AM
  #41  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Madenjapan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2023
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 31
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Hi everyone I tried searching the threads but couldn't find a solution on how to remove these bolts from the 93 front bumper. I'm trying to take these off and relocating them on the 99 bumper but can't figure it out. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Old 01-31-23, 11:50 AM
  #42  
Lives on the Forum

iTrader: (26)
 
Redbul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: B.C.
Posts: 5,071
Received 1,222 Likes on 951 Posts
BC

Buy a new set for your new bumper!

Chances are those are already bent, maybe in an impercievable way.

Have you got the proper rebar for that S8 bumper?

Last edited by Redbul; 01-31-23 at 12:01 PM.
Old 01-31-23, 12:03 PM
  #43  
Lives on the Forum

iTrader: (26)
 
Redbul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: B.C.
Posts: 5,071
Received 1,222 Likes on 951 Posts


Last edited by Redbul; 01-31-23 at 12:14 PM.
Old 01-31-23, 12:46 PM
  #44  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Madenjapan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2023
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 31
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Originally Posted by Redbul
Buy a new set for your new bumper!

Chances are those are already bent, maybe in an impercievable way.

Have you got the proper rebar for that S8 bumper?
they're in good condition so I wanted to re-use them but can't get it off...

The rebar, yes, got the 99 rebar used from a buddy
Old 01-31-23, 04:26 PM
  #45  
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary

iTrader: (283)
 
tomsn16's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Murfreesboro TN
Posts: 4,213
Received 499 Likes on 332 Posts
Originally Posted by Madenjapan
Hi everyone I tried searching the threads but couldn't find a solution on how to remove these bolts from the 93 front bumper. I'm trying to take these off and relocating them on the 99 bumper but can't figure it out. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Bumper mounting brackets are pop-riveted on the cover. Drill out and re-install with new rivets.
The following users liked this post:
Madenjapan (01-31-23)
Old 01-31-23, 04:28 PM
  #46  
Lives on the Forum

iTrader: (26)
 
Redbul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: B.C.
Posts: 5,071
Received 1,222 Likes on 951 Posts
I don't know, but I suspect the rivets get drilled out. I have two cases where body shops removed the braces from some discard bumper skins I had. In both cases they were ultimately unhappy with the result.
The following users liked this post:
Madenjapan (01-31-23)
Old 01-31-23, 04:29 PM
  #47  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Madenjapan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2023
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 31
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Originally Posted by tomsn16
Bumper mounting brackets are pop-riveted on the cover. Drill out and re-install with new rivets.
thnx!!!
The following users liked this post:
Redbul (01-31-23)
Old 01-31-23, 05:05 PM
  #48  
Full Member

 
Billj747's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: SoCal
Posts: 212
Received 122 Likes on 64 Posts
Congrats! Welcome, and invest in one of these:

https://elementfire.com/
The following users liked this post:
Madenjapan (01-31-23)
Old 01-31-23, 05:06 PM
  #49  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Madenjapan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2023
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 31
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Originally Posted by Billj747
Congrats! Welcome, and invest in one of these:

https://elementfire.com/
thanks and oooo I'll pick one up!
Old 02-01-23, 10:03 AM
  #50  
Don't worry be happy...

iTrader: (1)
 
Montego's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 6,846
Received 787 Likes on 463 Posts
Originally Posted by Madenjapan
thanks and oooo I'll pick one up!
Did you figure out your fuel leakage problem?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:03 PM.