Ok I posted on here before about my A/F gauge not working and a new o2 sensor is what everyone told me I needed.

So I bought a bosch one and installed it. Now the gauge face is still blank. So I take it out and I disconnect the purple wire from the back of it, which runs to a wire on the ecu, and then the green light all the way up at rich lights up and when I reconnect it it goes blank again.

What is wrong?

 

I don't mean to sound like an azz but why do you even need the gauge? To tell you the truth, the gauge is useless as far as tunning the car. What I would do is get/borrow a wideband and tune the car. You have just wasted your $$$ on the christmas lights.

This is just my 2 cents though, I'm sure some may swear by the gauges.

 

Ok after immense searching on this site and all over the web all anyone ever says is connect it to the o2 wire at the ecu. Is it so ovbious to everyone else because out of all those wires I dont know how to tell which one it goes to.

So I went up to a local shop and they told me its easy to do and they told me the same thing eveyone else says, red wire-power, black wire-ground, purple wire-o2 at ecu. And so I asked them how do I know what wire it is at the ecu and so they gave me this diagram and that made it very simple. So here is the diagram for anyone else who needs it.

 

But it works now right? Or are you still having problems?

 

yes it works now. the previous owner just had it connected to the wrong wire at the ecu.

 

Ok never mind its still not working.

The light just stays all the way at rich.

Is there a way to test it?

Its now all hooked up properly so what else could it be?
Is it possible that its running that rich?

 

sell it and get a water temp gauge :-D
the a/f gauges are worthless IMO (theyre never THAT accurate) and the water temp gauge u have now (stock in gauge cluster) is WORTHLESS...wont tell u its running hot UNITL ITS TOO LATE
but thats just my opinion

 

Unless it's a heated three wire sensor, it should read lean at startup until it warms up. Should slowly move from lean to whatever your AFR is doing until it comes up to full temp.

Once you are driving you should see some movement. Try coasting in gear at high rpms with no throttle input, this shuts off the injectors so it should read full lean or not show any lights at all. If your car goes into closed loop at cruise, it should bounce from lean to rich.

 

so then its probably still not hooked up properly then?

can anyone verify that the above diagram is correct?

 

means the connection to the ecu is bad. it goes to the rich side to show its connect to the 12v. have the same problem