AHarada

iTrader: (25)

Hello fellow FD enthusiasts.

I've been browsing the forum for the last few months, and lately I've been doing heavy research on FD's. I've been searching and reading threads a lot so hopefully my specific questions haven't been asked a million times.

I am very interested in one FD in particular for sale and I'd like to get some input about this specific car. I am very happy with the car after checking it out (not too in depth) and test driving it. The motor runs very strong. There is only one major concern on my mind as of right now, and that is that it is modded.

The relevant mods are Apexi dual intake filters, GReddy SMIC, HKS downpipe, Bonez hi-flow cat, and Racing beat exhaust. My concern is that there is no fuel upgrades, or aftermarket engine management whatsoever. The car was rebuilt 2000 miles ago, and the car has had these mods since the rebuild. The engine seems to run fine, but I am concerned about any detonation that the motor has already experienced from a possible lean condition.

The seller is including the stock parts, and my first order of business will be to put most of the stock parts on except for the DP, and the IC (until I can afford proper tuning and fuel upgrades).

It does have a boost guage installed, but I forgot to have him drive so I could see the boost pattern (duh). He assures me that he sees the normal 10-8-10 boost pattern, and that at times it can creep to 12psi, but is fairly consistant (dangerous, I know).

The motor does have another 10k miles on the warranty for the rebuild from a reputable rotary shop.

Are my concerns valid, or are they not much to worry about? It is possible that there is not a lean condition, but most likely it is in need of more fuel correct? Any input is grealy appreciated.

Please no flaming.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

It's possible that it has an ECU upgrade with a chipped ECU, unless the owner has put all the mods on and knows he hasn't touched the ECU.

If you're running at 10psi on the stock ECU, common wisdom says that's safe. Problem is you typically have boost spikes that go past 10psi - that's where the problem is. He would have to have some sort of boost control to keep it at 10psi with those mods.

If you're not 100% sure, get a compression test done on the car. If it's healthy, it's healthy. Apex seals don't get weak from detonation then go later - they either work or don't.

Glad you've done a lot of reading - an RX-7 is more of an obsession than transportation, and knowledge is key.

If you do get it, backtracking on mods might be a good idea, or put in a PowerFC - there's a group buy going right now, and that will bigtime help your fuel out.

Dale

NeedFD

daleclark just about summarized everything..

Does the owner have upgraded radiator and ast ? if not, you have to consider adding those to the cost of the car too.

AHarada

iTrader: (25)

I asked him specifically about any engine management and fuel upgrades and he said it is all stock, so I am assuming there's no reflash. I am pretty sure this owner has done all the mods because he gave approx. mileage for each mod, all in which time that he had it.

I will try to see if I can do a compression check this weekend. Since the Apex seals are either good, or not good, just like you said, then I'm sure it would be very obvious if they were not good, and the motor ran strong on the test drive.

The PowerFC is definitely the unit I will be getting once upgrading the ECU.

One of the many things I love about the FD, or rotaries in general actually, is the wealth of information that is easily accessible. All of the information seems overwhelming at first, but it is definitely well worth the time invested researching.

AHarada

iTrader: (25)

Ahh, the AST is another thing I forgot to check out. Here is a current pic of the engine bay. From looking at the pic, it looks like he has the 86' RX7 cap (with overflow tube) and 16lb cap mods.





Can someone please confirm this.

Also, the radiator I believe is OEM, but it is not in the stock position, it is pointed (not viewable in the pix)

I am planning and willing to spend the money on the car though. I know it can get expensive to do appropriate mods right, but I am more than willing to spend the money.

dubulup

it appears the AST is eliminated...no big deal. You are right about the cap.Just an ugle bolt in the nipple on the filler neck. Not sure if you can call it a 16lb cap mod...none the less its a cap with 16lbs. I can't remember what the recommend cap is...but IIRC, Mazda lowered it due to busting coolant lines after the twins bake them.

this car probably has high air intake temps...being the air intake is directly in the radiator fan exhaust and there is a big hole in the intercooler duct.

the radiator is in the stock location. the GND strap is missing on the upper intake manifold.

looks clean though

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Just FYI, motor warranties don't really cover blowing the engine due to overboost or a A/F lean conditions (who on this planet would offer a warranty like that?). They basically cover assembly errors and such. So if the engine does let go from the boost creeping too high, you will be SOL and paying out of your own pocket for a new one.

Basically, don't let the warranty put you into a false sense of security.

rynberg

Get a compression check, just like you would for any FD for sale.

All you need is a boost controller to keep boost at 10 psi. You can run all those mods safely on the stock ecu at 10 psi.

Engine bay looks clean.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

He does have a manual boost controller - it's the **** just to the right of the shock tower in the first pic. So, it's quite possible it's only hitting 10psi, which is a Good Thing.

The receiver/dryer for the AC is missing, so the AC will definitely not work and will likely need a good bit of work to get going again. There's also a tab for a ground strap hookup on the firewall that's not connected - no biggie, he may have some other ground run or something.

I'd also get a proper battery holddown - again, a minor thing, but a battery falling into the power steering pump when you're in a hard turn is way not cool .

Anyhow, good luck with it!

Dale

AHarada

iTrader: (25)

Great eye Dale! Good call on the manual boost controller. The car doesn't have A/C. There was no condenser. I'm not sure if the compressor was still on the motor though, it may just be there with the drive belt. Is there any kind of A/C delete belt kit available?

I will keep a close eye on the boost and get compression numbers before going through with it.

I can use a short piece of 4 guage or 8 guage if adequate speaker wire with ring terminals for the ground.